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2010 Outback 3.6R, 2005 LGT Unlimited, 03 WRX (out of commision)
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So.. on my 2010 OB, i want to be able to keep my Fog lights on when i hit the high beam.. in fact.. id like to have the fogs independent on of from the stock stick location..

has anyone figured this out yet?

TIA
 

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2010 cvt 2.5 white
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567 Posts
I asked this and no one answered. I can tell you the hard way to do it. Run a splice into the high beam relay and over to the fog relay. Just not sure if you would burn up the BCU when power is going to where its not supposed to go.
 

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Meh.
I has wagons.
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2010 Outback 3.6R Azurite Blue Pearl w/Nav & Moonroof
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43 Posts
This is correct operation! Fog lights are specifically created to disperse light low and wide (i.e. under the fog). That is why fog lights are mounted as low as possible on the vehicle. Fog (water vapor suspended in the air) will cause your low-beam headlight to reflect/disperse, often back into the eyes of the driver. Fog lights "backlight" the water vapor to enable the driver to see further. High-beams would exacerbate the issue, causing a tremendous amount of glare to the driver. You should only use the high-beams in a non-fog situation, in which case the fog lights will be of little use, as they are not needed to shine beneath the water vapor. Any company that understands what fog lights do will engineer them to turn off if you go to high-beams. Perhaps you are thinking of driving lights? These are typically mounted at or above headlight height and offer piercing, bright light for use off-road or when there are zero oncoming cars.

I apologize if you already know this - I couldn't tell for sure from your post.
 

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2017 Forester XT, 2015 3.6R Ltd (sold)
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950 Posts
Big Ditto. Using high beams causes a glare to reflect off fog and snow, which defeats the purpose of the fogs. The two are designed to operate independently of one another.

A mechanic once told me (I have no idea if this is true) that a secondary reason is that the common fog light elements used in most cars are sensitive to fluctuations in current and would burn out more quickly if left on when switching between high and low beams. He said that almost all makers build in this self-defeating function to prevent premature bulb loss. True? I don't know.
 

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2010 cvt 2.5 white
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Nonsense!

It is because of Federal law that states only 6 lights on front of car at one time. Fogs would make it 8.

Anyway I never drive in fog and I like having ALL lights on when cranking on high beams so relay splicing is a GO for me. I will post pictures when done. When Off-roading I want as much light as I can get. If I click on high beams I want all the light the car has to offer.

Fogs that shut off with high beam and shut off with low beam off are useless!







Big Ditto. Using high beams causes a glare to reflect off fog and snow, which defeats the purpose of the fogs. The two are designed to operate independently of one another.

A mechanic once told me (I have no idea if this is true) that a secondary reason is that the common fog light elements used in most cars are sensitive to fluctuations in current and would burn out more quickly if left on when switching between high and low beams. He said that almost all makers build in this self-defeating function to prevent premature bulb loss. True? I don't know.
 

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2010 Outbook Limited 3.6 Silver Steel, XM
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199 Posts
Nonsense!



Fogs that shut off with high beam and shut off with low beam off are useless!
I have owned, an Acura TL, BMW X3, VW Passat, Audi Allroad....the fogs went off when the high beams go on-- These manufactures hardly put useless features on their vehicles.
NOT nonsense....some automakers make the fogs to go on without headlights...so the drivers can bee cool and run them all day---"look at me I have fog lights"...its OK but too many are not aimed properly because the car makers put them on for styling and not fiunction...:rolleyes:
 

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2009 G8 GXP
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I am glad that everyone has such a strong opinion as to why they should or should not be on with the high beams, but the OP did not inquire about IF they should be on he merely wanted to know how to do it. Does anyone actually have an answer or should we just stay side tracked?
 

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2010 cvt 2.5 white
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I am glad that everyone has such a strong opinion as to why they should or should not be on with the high beams, but the OP did not inquire about IF they should be on he merely wanted to know how to do it. Does anyone actually have an answer or should we just stay side tracked?
X2

I said I will splice the relays and post pics when done.
 

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2000 Outback Limited Sedan
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97 Posts
Hey i just did this mod, in order to do it you have to do it with both steps i listed in this forum: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/80-electrical-electronics/6265-2000-2004-legacy-outback-fog-light-mod.html.

Wasn't too hard. Sadly you cannot just do the second set of steps to achieve the fogs/brights mod since power is still being killed on the voltage side of the relay, so all steps are necessary.

Im not quite sure about the 2010 model, but essentially its the same idea, find the fog light relay (probably under the dash? i think they started doing that in 2005), locate the wire that is the "voltage" end of the relay (probably red), and lead it to another power source (power from parking lights maybe). I'm assuming that the 2010 still has a dedicated fog light switch, if it doesn't and has stalk mounted you'll have to go and search for the wires that are for the fog light, and connect the wire that is getting cut off from ground when high beams go on to a constant ground (also should be wired to the switch). If you find the block diagrams for the fog light circuit it'll help, a lot.
 

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I have had factory fogs on my last four vehicles and I find the ones on the outback limited 2.5/CVT do not seem to provide much additional light in the night - may be I am missing something. I have not had a chance to use them in a fog and perhaps I'll see the benefit there but on my previous vehicles when you turned them on (no fog) they put a good light dispersal down low in front and to the sides of the vehicle – they illuminated the ditch to the right side of the vehicle nicely which helped in seeing the side lines as well as any critter eyes ready to jump out. They worked this way on the Jeep Cherokee and Liberty I have owned as well as my current Honda Odyssey. Also, all these vehicles would turn off the fog lights when the high beam was activated.
 

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2000 Outback Limited Sedan
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97 Posts
Sadly a lot of new cars only have fog lights for styling purposes, and server barely any functionality. With my model, 00-04, i know there is a screw just above the fog to adjust the angle of the entire assembly. After tinkering around with the left one one day, and not properly readjusting it, i found that it was aimed much higher than the way i bought it, and it actually provides a heck of a lot more light. Keep in mind the fogs on the 00-04 are pretty big (on the outbacks at least), so they put out a good amount of light.

But anyway point is, maybe find the adjustment screw to aim them? After aiming mine they are now right on line with the low beams, in other words where the beam of light from the lows ends, the fogs begin.
So maybe hunt around for the adjustment screw and see what you can figure out!
 

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The fog relay stays HOT during bright=ON so its killing the power somewhere else. More probing required.
Check to see if the ground to your fog lights is open when the high beams are on. This is the setup on a vehicle I own.

On my truck the low/high switch in the steering column merely opens/closes the ground to the lights. I would suspect the same to be true for Subarus.

On my truck I wanted the low and high beams running at the same time so the fix was to run the ground wire to the chassis so that the low beams are always grounded and thus alays on regardless of the switch in the steering column.
 

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2009 2.5i SE PZEV Newport Blue
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525 Posts
Fog lights are just that, as very well described in several posts.
FYI, most are useless with high beams, so why have them on.
Mine happen to be quite weak, and would provide no added light if they were on with the high beams. They are great alone in snow & fog conditions, when one would not be driving very fast. Personally, I see no reason to alter wiring.
 

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2009 2.5i SE PZEV Newport Blue
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Quote:
Originally Posted by problemchild200
r.

Fogs that shut off with high beam and shut off with low beam off are useless!
The fog lights do not shut off when the low beams on.
__________________
Chris


That poster must have made mistake, typo. Fog lights would be on with the low beams, which is "correct". Not on with the highs! In some European cities, I have seen laws to drive with the fog lights and no headlights (just parking lights), since their street lighting is very strong!
 

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2000 Outback Limited Sedan
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As an ob driver with this mod done, i actually find the fog lights on with the high beams to be helpful. When my high beams are on i still have a good 2 foot section of light missing between the front of the car and where the light spread of the low beams start. Having the fogs stay on with the high beams gives you ultimate lighting on the road, you still get right down in front and to the very sides, the middle, and very far high and wide. Its awesome. But then again my ob has those massive foglights, with 35w 3000k HIDs in them which are bright as all ****.
 

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'14 Subi OBW, '18 Subi Forester
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I found this old thread while looking to see what others had tried.

I'm going (a piece at a time) with a different set of modifications to the lighting on my '02 OBW. I've always viewed the existing fogs to be OK, but from a standpoint of priorities, I need more light high and to the sides when driving dark, lonely roads in the country than the existing 4 bulb headlight system provides.

1) I used the adjusting screw on the fogs to raise the spread pattern up considerably. The large reflector puts out a terrific pattern both forward and to the sides, great for seeing the deer hiding in the brush or woods just waiting to become roadkill and wreck my ride.

2) I did the 9006 ===> 9005 conversion. 1700 lumens instead of 1000 lumens, for only 10 watts additional draw. The stock harness and other components seem fine with this. I did this one a few years back, and it's great!

I wouldn't have believed it, but the brighter, raised fogs still do a decent job in fog & blowing snow. Reflected glare isn't bad - so I still have serviceable fogs for use with low beams. So now on to adding them to the high beams...

I studied the various mods, and decided to create my own with a supplemental relay. Simple and easily reversible. I added a dash switch to the unused blank plate (windshield wiper defroster not on my car), so that I can turn this 'feature' off if I want stock operation. Basically I ran a wire from the fuse box (switched power) to this switch, and out thru the firewall to the coil of a little "horn/light relay" from the auto parts store (like $10) that I plan to mount near the battery. The secondary side of the coil gets spliced into the headlamp harness - the wire that goes from 12v on low beam to Gnd on high beam. So when you switch on the high beams, we complete the circuit from the fuse box and the relay contacts close.

To the relay contacts I ran a battery wire (fused) for 12v, and out of the relay a pair of wires - each going down to a fog lamp to provide fresh power to each lamp. I actually found that providing separate feeds produced a brighter output. Apparently the stock relay and wiring system has some internal resistance resulting in a voltage drop.

So far I have roughed much of this in (been driving around with the lower dash panel off and wires hanging out everywhere for some time now), and am now working on fine details. I plan to add fuses all around so that a short somewhere doesn't knock out the headlamps. I'll post more when I get parts mounted up.
 

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Proper term for these lights are rally or short range flood lights specifically for the distance between the low beams and the front bumper and to light the area 3-4 ft up along the side near the front of the car so one can see the shoulder features of the road.

No such thing as fog lights unless your talking about the 1970's 80's amber colored lights marketed as "fog lights"

The people who drive around with the short range flood lights on while on paved wide roads with very clear shoulders are just simply look at me idiots. The people who modify factory flood lights so they stay on when High Beams are on are people with way too much time on their hands and one step beyond the idiot look at me types and are just stupid.

If you want real wide flood lighting action mount proper Hella lights on the bumper and only use them at appropriate times like say very dark backroads where spotting wildlife and bad spots in the road is important.
 
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