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@Sensky, they're spark-proof, so you can go direct to the battery terminals. Much safer than jumper cables. Just be aware that a very cold jump pack (one that's been left in the car in winter) will be severely limited in the amount of current it can supply. It may not be able to start the car right away, but leaving it connected for a few minutes might still do the trick. I have yet to try one cold for jump starting, but my GB70 is just barely able to run my portable compressor (which requires a 15A circuit) when it's been sitting in my car below freezing. Despite showing full charge at room temperature, under these conditions (pump running), it shows 25% charge status (probably because the voltage is sagging so much).
 

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You sold me on getting one of these for a just in case scenerio. Just a question on this specific product. Do you attach both the positive and negative clamps to the battery with this device? I was always under the impression one of the negatives needs to be grounded and attached to a piece of metal.
If you are certain that the metal is part of the car's structure (in other words, grounded) then it's fine. The battery connected direct is ideal, but not necessary. BTW, this device is much safer than using jumper cables especially that it guards against attaching backwards or touching cables together which is spark city with jumper cables. Very substantial. I've used it on a few friend's cars and it was awesome. Some great review vids on YouTube.
 

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2017 2.5i Premium Lapis Blue
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I tried to use my lithium jump pack to start my Astro Van the other day when it didn't want to go. I was reminded why I always hated those side mount battery terminals GM used to use. They suck. I couldn't get a good connection with the clamps that come with the jump pack, partly because the bolts of the terminals were rusty and partly because the battery is tucked partially under the inner fender. In the end I brought out my faithful 30+ year old charger/booster that still gets the job done.



I bought that when I moved in to my first apartment and no longer had ready access to dad's tools and equipment. In the background is the Outback with the block heater plugged in.
 

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I want to be able to leave the rear gate open all day and leave the key fob in the car but not have the battery run down. Can I do that? I have a brand new 2018 Outback 2.5 Touring model I left the rear gate open for about 8 hours yesterday and the key fob was in the dash. I was really shocked when I went to start the car and it was completely dead. It did started with a jump. If I disable the key would that keep it from draining the battery? Or is there a way I can do this? (My two dogs lay in the back (gate open) on their comfy beds and watch me work on the farm.)
 

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@Sensky, they're spark-proof, so you can go direct to the battery terminals. Much safer than jumper cables. Just be aware that a very cold jump pack (one that's been left in the car in winter) will be severely limited in the amount of current it can supply. It may not be able to start the car right away, but leaving it connected for a few minutes might still do the trick. I have yet to try one cold for jump starting, but my GB70 is just barely able to run my portable compressor (which requires a 15A circuit) when it's been sitting in my car below freezing. Despite showing full charge at room temperature, under these conditions (pump running), it shows 25% charge status (probably because the voltage is sagging so much).
 

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I want to be able to leave the rear gate open all day and leave the key fob in the car but not have the battery run down. Can I do that? I have a brand new 2018 Outback 2.5 Touring model I left the rear gate open for about 8 hours yesterday and the key fob was in the dash. I was really shocked when I went to start the car and it was completely dead. It did started with a jump. If I disable the key would that keep it from draining the battery? Or is there a way I can do this? (My two dogs lay in the back (gate open) on their comfy beds and watch me work on the farm.)
 

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as a Subaru technician the easiest way is to set the lift gate latch to the closed position with the lift gate open
that will tell the vehc that the gate is closed
to un latch it, manually close the lift gate almost all the way closed than push the release switch
 

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PDSTOCK1....I'm interested in your suggestion but don't understand what you wrote. Can you re-state, please.
 

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PDSTOCK1....I'm interested in your suggestion but don't understand what you wrote. Can you re-state, please.
with the lift gate open take a key or Philips screwdriver and push it up and into the latch like as if the latch was closing on the striker,
you should see the lift gate open warning lights on the dash go out.
when closing the lift gate wont latch until you release the latch to the open position by pressing the release switch.
if its a power lift gate it wont hurt it if you slowly pull it down to the almost closed position and than hit the release switch, you should a click at which point it should finish closing
 

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2015 3.6R Limited w/ES
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Man, I forgot how many of these threads exist.

...if its a power lift gate it wont hurt it if you slowly pull it down to the almost closed position and than hit the release switch, you should a click at which point it should finish closing
Just a little extra detail - on my 2015, re-initialization of the hatch is slightly different. Once I manually lower the gate as far as possible and hit the hatch button on the remote, it starts opening again. I just give it a push the other way and it closes. Everything is then back to normal.

I recently posted this in the thread I linked to on the prior page (actually missed one step, next to last, which is to hit the hatch button on the remote before using your hand to stop it from opening again):

 

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2018 3.6R Black Outback
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with the lift gate open take a key or Philips screwdriver and push it up and into the latch like as if the latch was closing on the striker,
you should see the lift gate open warning lights on the dash go out.
when closing the lift gate wont latch until you release the latch to the open position by pressing the release switch.
if its a power lift gate it wont hurt it if you slowly pull it down to the almost closed position and than hit the release switch, you should a click at which point it should finish closing
Sorry, but when you say hit the release switch, what is the release switch exactly? Is that the button, or something on/near the actual latch? Thanks!
 

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Sorry, but when you say hit the release switch, what is the release switch exactly? Is that the button, or something on/near the actual latch? Thanks!
C'mon now, did you read my post just above yours? He means hit the hatch button on the fob. Not sure if the gate button will work as well, but this isn't rocket science, just go try it for crying out loud. ;)
 

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19 2.5i OB LTD w/SSD Strt Twr Brc + OEM 19mm RSB
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Subaru should make an inexpensive OEM replacement gate close button, that also features another button called "tent" or "camp". There should be no mechanical gymnastics with a screwdriver or wooden dowel or pen or some other trickery required of a user to do something they practically advertise.

I cannot believe they haven't addressed this in a customer-centric manner that is easy to learn, use, and remember. Oh well.
 

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Subaru should make an inexpensive OEM replacement gate close button, that also features another button called "tent" or "camp". There should be no mechanical gymnastics with a screwdriver or wooden dowel or pen or some other trickery required of a user to do something they practically advertise.

I cannot believe they haven't addressed this in a customer-centric manner that is easy to learn, use, and remember. Oh well.
i agree
 

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19 2.5i OB LTD w/SSD Strt Twr Brc + OEM 19mm RSB
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Oh yeah, inexpensive and easy to install too. Geesh. Time for someone to make some $$$ making an aftermarket assembly with two switches, one a pb momentary (for the close), the other a two position SPDT (single-pole, double-throw) rocker (one position labeled "camp" or "tent"). 4 pieces of wire, maybe a connector or two (so that no cutting or soldering or heat shrink required), and voila, done. Cost, probably under two to five dollars to make in quantity. Cost to customers? Maybe... free upgrade for inquiring at your next service visit. No need to manually manipulate the latch!

For a free Subie for my oldest son, I'll be happy to prototype it for Subaru Engineering. :LOL:
 
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