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2.5L 1998 OBW auto
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53 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
The camshaft position sensor relays the relative camshaft position to the ECM for determining the position and stroke of the No. 1 cylinder. This information is required for proper fuel injection functioning.


2.5L DOHC Engine .........................

1. Using the Subaru scan tool, check the sensor output waveform.
2. With the engine OFF and the ignition switch ON the signal (V) should be 0-0.9.
3. Measurement is taken using connector B135 terminal 8 for the left side and connector B135 terminal 9 for the right side.
4. If abnormality is found, replace the sensor.


2.5L SOHC Engine ............................

1. Remove the sensor from the vehicle.
2. Measure the resistance between the two connector terminals of the sensor, (terminals 1 and 2).
3. If measured value is not within 1-4 kohms, replace the sensor.


3.0L Engine .......................................

1. Using the Subaru scan tool, check the sensor output waveform.
2. On 2002-2004 vehicles, measurement for signal+ is taken using connector B135 terminal signal- connector B135 terminal 10.
3. On 2005 vehicles, measurement is taken using connector B135 terminal 8 for the left side and connector B135 terminal 9 for the right side.
4. If abnormality is found, replace the sensor.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?partName=Camshaft+Position+Sensor&pageId=0900c1528019d1f0&partId=0900c1528019d1f0
 

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'96 Legacy Outback 2.5 engine
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11 Posts
I used an OBDII tester. Plugs into the socket to the left side of the
steering wheel. Just flip down the cover (on a 96 Legacy Outback) and
plug in tester power it up. Then turn key to the ON but not running position. It will give you the read out.
 

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2010 Outback 2.5
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18 Posts
Just pulled and tested mine. 2k ohms so I guess that's not the problem. My Chilton's said to remove the bolts above and below the bracket since the sensor does not have enough clearance to come out by itself: word to the wise: I only needed to remove the top bolt, and the bottom one was a PITA to get to!
 

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Premium Member
2001 VDC/SC One of a Kind
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14,285 Posts
Cam and crank sensors don't fail too often. Usually its a bad connection at the plug or a loose wire in the plug. Other times its a stretched timing belt or failure with the tensioner.

What are you trying to narrow down? Performance with codes? Performance w/o codes?
 

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2013 Outback 3.6R Limited w/SAP
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177 Posts
Mine went out on my 2005 OB 2.5XT while on a road trip from Denver to California. It really pissed me off. I ended up spending the day at Subaru of Las Vegas. I could have done it myself for $100 if I was home with my tools. Of course the dealership charged me $325. My car died 10 times on the way home before I made it to Vegas. It pissed me off so I traded it in for a 2013 a month later.
 

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2010 Outback 2.5
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18 Posts
Thanks CarDoc
To answer your question, a bit of both - the misfire codes are gone now (gaskets, plugs wires fixed those) had a pending P0130P (front o2) code but has not come back. Tested front o2 heater circuit - reads as a short, no resistance at all. There was grease in the connector last night - sprayed it out with carb cleaner and am about to re-test. If the heater circuit has no resistance, I guess that means replace o2, right?
 

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7 Posts
I had a rodent get into my engine compartment on my 08' 3.0L and chew up the wiring harness in a couple places. A whole group of grounds that where on the drivers side, and also a shielded wire that goes to a plug on the top of the rear of the engine. I have spliced everything back together heat shrunk and re-shielded the other one, and now the car runs but has set a check engine code for crank position sensor P0336 I think and has a dead miss on two holes (1 & 5) and misfires on most of the others.

Any help here? I don't have a manual but I have an OBD 2 reader for my laptop.
 

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7 Posts
OK so I see from the technician reference guide I downloaded from cardocs link that the sensor with the damaged wiring is my crank position sensor. I reconnected it but it is not functioning properly. What type of signal/waveform is present on this? I was careful to get the correct colors connected but maybe the type of wire I used or something is not compatible?
 
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