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Hello I need some opinions on what. Oils be wrong with my 2006 outback. I recently replaced ball joints, struts and wheel bearings. I get a shudder when turning right at 65+ on the highway. The shudder only happens when the temp is below 80 degrees. Only happens in right turns I’m stumped and could use some input
 

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hate to see no repsonse to this so, I'll offer a coupla things to try.

any change if you touch the brakes a little?

Swap the tires front to back and see if there's a change - while doing that, inspect the lug nuts, axle nuts and the brake calipers . Caliper might be sticking or ???
 

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CV axle joints? They might bind somewhat when turning, and binding would/could depend on the grease temperature.

Caliper slide pins sticking with cold grease is plausible as well.

Could the ball joint be loose when cold, and tighten at higher temps? Again, grease temperature is a question here as well.
 

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I would think the opposite with Ball Joints.

CV axle joints? They might bind somewhat when turning, and binding would/could depend on the grease temperature.

Caliper slide pins sticking with cold grease is plausible as well.

Could the ball joint be loose when cold, and tighten at higher temps? Again, grease temperature is a question here as well.
 

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I don't think it's temperature related unless it's heat in the component that is causing the shudder. I can't think of anything that would be ambient temperature related except in maybe the ability for a component to transfer heat.

Wheel bearings will heat up the fastest because they support weight. Are you hearing any humming noises while driving? And if you are, does the pitch of the humming change with slight steering correction?

The other thing could be as simple as a misalignment of the wheels or tire pressure. Loose lug nuts come to mind as 1 Lucky Texan posted.

It could be in the power steering. The o-ring on the pump feed hose connector will suck in air and cause a judder on turns. Could also be a valve in the rack is sticking. When's the last time you flushed the PS system?

Ball joints, strut mounts, tie rod ball joint, can all cause binding in turns, but generally this is felt at low speeds like a parking lot, not highway. Bad joints would cause a constant vibration like an out of balance tire at highway speed.

Lets see......another question would be what type of turns are you referring to at speeds of 65+? Lane changes, on/off ramps, flyover exits?
 

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I have a vibration in the steering wheel at highway speeds (65-75, stops at 80), which is worse and down to 60 mph under light braking when taking exit ramps. I guess this could be a slightly more extreme version of your issue.

First (cheapest to try) guess, after reading threads on highway vibration here and talking to a colleague who had the same in a Forester, is brake rotors and rust on the wheel mounting faces making things very slightly out of true.

My brake discs and pads are four years old, wheel bearings, CV axles (OEM), steering knuckles and suspension are new, tie rods and rack likely original. 2006 Outback Wagon, 2.5i.
 

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Slight right hand turns at highway speeds that’s the only time
tie rod ends come to mind as likely culprit; control arm bushings - these will alter the alignment of the wheel assembly with torque application and when you brake, but also with looseness in the joint you would get a vibration when the torque changes; as in steering, heavy throttle, sometimes braking
 

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I have a vibration in the steering wheel at highway speeds (65-75, stops at 80), which is worse and down to 60 mph under light braking when taking exit ramps. I guess this could be a slightly more extreme version of your issue.

First (cheapest to try) guess, after reading threads on highway vibration here and talking to a colleague who had the same in a Forester, is brake rotors and rust on the wheel mounting faces making things very slightly out of true.

My brake discs and pads are four years old, wheel bearings, CV axles (OEM), steering knuckles and suspension are new, tie rods and rack likely original. 2006 Outback Wagon, 2.5i.
I've replaced the stuck right front slide pins and both front rotors on my Outback, and my vibration has gone. I also cleaned the corrosion off the mounting surface of my alloy wheels with a drill mounted wire brush.

However, my right front brake is still sticking, as the caliper is nearly shot. Rubber boots on one piston have worn through, and I'm getting smoke after a 5 mile test drive.
 

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Did you "pigtail" the hose when you put it back together? If the pistons went back in easily when you worked on it, regardless of piston boot condition, it shouldn't hang up when you brake.

Just something to check while you wait on replacement calipers.
I don't think so. I had to push the piston back with a C-clamp, not by hand. The four year old caliper on the driver's side I can compress back by hand (that one froze on my way to work then)

Anyway, it's going in to the shop I had do the alignment tomorrow. I don't need it or have time to work on it during the week, and we're planning to drive it on vacation on Saturday. It's due a brake fluid replacement, so they might as well do that as well.
 

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I don't think so. I had to push the piston back with a C-clamp, not by hand. The four year old caliper on the driver's side I can compress back by hand (that one froze on my way to work then)

Anyway, it's going in to the shop I had do the alignment tomorrow. I don't need it or have time to work on it during the week, and we're planning to drive it on vacation on Saturday. It's due a brake fluid replacement, so they might as well do that as well.
Nope, definitely not pigtailed, and I used CRC Silm... Whatever it's called... on the new slide pins, so no concerns about the rubber on the pins.
 

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Ok, so managed to test drive on the highway tonight. The vibrations have completely gone, with new front calipers, pads, rotors and new rear pads and rotors.
 
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