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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought a 2012 2.5 Limited with 100k. I know the recommended service for the timing belt is at 105k. I plan on doing it before then. I know OEM is best but I am looking to save some money. Looking on Rock Auto, I could buy a Dayco kit (95307K1S) for $143. It comes with belt, tensioner, idler pulleys and seals. Seems like a **** of a deal to me. Also, I have been reading on here that some people don't change there water pump out when doing the timing belt. Why should or shouldn't I change it?

Next item on my list to deal with are struts. I have been reading that some of you on here prefer the '13+ struts. I have never driven one to so I don't what the difference feels like. I want a smooth ride because this is the nicest car I have ever owned. I do like handling but don't need it. I could upgrade to the 19MM rear sway bar and be happy. Would it be better to get factory struts or are the KYBs on Rock Auto as good?

Third and last item: is there a better source or just better brand for things like mud flaps and such? Thank you!
 

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(formerly) 03 H6 OBW , (presently) 06 WRX Sportwagon & 2021 Honda CR-V
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kyb - they will be about 15% stiffer than OEM, not expensive I don't think, the ones I just put on my WRX were about $67 each for the front.

If you get an aftermarket timing system kit that is mostly devoid of Japanese parts, at least plan on getting back in there before 105K. Most people would try to stay with Japanese parts so, belt; OEM or Mitsuboshi, tensioner OEM or NTN, idlers with koyo or similar japanese bearings, or OEM....waterpumps are extremely robust and will likely begin seeping before anything catastrophic happens anyway - I didn't swap mine. You've probably read threads discussing brands and sources.

mizumoauto or other ebay dealers offer kits and can probably customize one for you if you contact them. Your local dealer might price-match from on-line delaer prices - that can be comforting if you run into a problem during the job. fredbeansparts.com , subarupartsforyou, genuinesubaruparts...etc.
 

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2010 Subaru Outback 2.5i Premium (The Superoo), Graphite Gray Metallic, CVT, Yoko Geolandar G015 AT 225/65R-17
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Gates Timing Belt Kit TCK304 for me with an Aisin WPF-025 water pump. When I removed the waterpump, it looked just like the new one. Almost as clean and it felt the same when spinning the impeller. I'm with 1 Lucky Texan, I probably didn't need to replace mine. I guess it's just peace of mind for down the road.

I also replaced the accessory belt since it was off anyway.
 
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2010 Subaru Outback 2.5i Premium (The Superoo), Graphite Gray Metallic, CVT, Yoko Geolandar G015 AT 225/65R-17
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Another note that I haven't seen much in other threads about the timing belt service...

The FSM states that when re-installing the crank pulley, a new pulley bolt should be installed. The torque process for the bolt requires this. I guess some people reuse the bolt but I felt like it was too critical of a part to take a chance on.
 

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OBW H6 VDC, Tribeca, XT6
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You basically want top notch timing components which generally means Japanese in origin.
OEM timing parts are best but pricey
Gates were great and I'd still consider them - there are recent reports of issues with them, not enough to deter me
I would not use any other timing components without compelling reason, price alone is not compelling on an interference engine - these almost always bend lots of valves when they break.

These Water pumps never fail, they routinely last to the next timing belt change. I replace them sometimes, but doubtful i would on a car this new.
Aisin or OEM Subaru only for that.
Get a Subaru only water pump gasket as well - the aftermarkets are flimsy cardboard.
Definitely change your coolant and add the fluid if required by Subaru (which I think it is)

Struts - I always go with KYB and they're great but I'm not a performance buff so I don't even entertain strut options.
 

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Another note that I haven't seen much in other threads about the timing belt service...

The FSM states that when re-installing the crank pulley, a new pulley bolt should be installed. The torque process for the bolt requires this. I guess some people reuse the bolt but I felt like it was too critical of a part to take a chance on.
Totally understood why you'd do that.
But for future readers, there's no need to replace the pulley bolt. I don't think hardly anyone in the country replaces them, i've removed/installed hundreds of them. I'd be surprised if dealers even did it routinely.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thank you all, will work on sourcing Japanese parts for timing belt. On the subject of struts, should I replace the top mount at the same time?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
kyb - they will be about 15% stiffer than OEM, not expensive I don't think, the ones I just put on my WRX were about $67 each for the front.

If you get an aftermarket timing system kit that is mostly devoid of Japanese parts, at least plan on getting back in there before 105K. Most people would try to stay with Japanese parts so, belt; OEM or Mitsuboshi, tensioner OEM or NTN,
idlers with koyo or similar japanese bearings, or OEM....waterpumps are extremely robust and will likely begin seeping before anything catastrophic happens anyway - I didn't swap mine. You've probably read threads discussing brands and sources.

mizumoauto or other ebay dealers offer kits and can probably customize one for you if you contact them. Your local dealer might price-match from on-line delaer prices - that can be comforting if you run into a problem during the job. fredbeansparts.com , subarupartsforyou, genuinesubaruparts...etc.
So on eBay I find this from mizumoauto http://www.ebay.com/itm/221047311213 it looks good but what about this manufacturer GMB? Are they reputable?
 

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(formerly) 03 H6 OBW , (presently) 06 WRX Sportwagon & 2021 Honda CR-V
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I put them on my WRX but, it was before I read some of what I now know - I don't think they(gmb) have Japanese bearings. I plan to do my next service at 60-75K because I don't trust them. email m'auto and ask about an all Japanese kit. Check Amazon too.

I also saw no oil weeping and left the seals alone - partly also because I have no experience changing seals lol!



the strut mounts on my WRX were pretty dry/crunchy (less than 70K miles) - glad I replaced the mounts (only reason I ordered a pair, one of mine was cracked about 40% around.)

wish I had replaced them on our Outback after feeling the WRX units.
 

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GMB is cheaper and lesser quality parts, your choice. No one is offering OEM parts that I know of on timing kits.

The thing with these companies is they aren't necessarily consistent - the bearings you get in one box may not be the same in another.

Strut mounts are completely random. Should decide once you look at them but that's a logistical nightmare taking the struts apart but not having the parts on hand.

They can last 250k or need replaced. I have 280,000 on my OBW and don't replace them unless they're actually failing, I've never replaced any yet on my daily drivers.

Thermostat - sure replace with OEM. I've still never seen a failed OEM daily driver thermostat. If the car sat for awhile or engine has been replaced I've seen those fail. They're cheap and easy so good idea to time replacement with a coolant change which should be done.
 

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2010 Subaru Outback 2.5i Premium (The Superoo), Graphite Gray Metallic, CVT, Yoko Geolandar G015 AT 225/65R-17
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Oh, yeah...when I replaced the WP, I also installed it with an OEM gasket and OEM thermostat. I read that other brand replacements were crap.

In working on my car I've been surprised how often the original OEM equipment turns out to be the best. (Oil filter, thermostat, WP gasket, LCA bushings, coolant, air intake)
 
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