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1) So when I rotate my tires, I wanna have the car all the way off the ground so can do them all at the same time.

So I was going to use a garage jack, jack up the front of the car using that jack point down the center of the car, put jack stands on either side towards front of car. Then use garage jack under rear differential, lift up the rear and put 2 more jack stands on either end.

Is this safe? If not, what would work?

2) Does anyone have a recommendation for a good garage jack that wont break the bank?

3) Which is the correct way to use jack stands? See picture.

I have a 2015 OB.
 

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2002 3.0 VDC Wag + 2018 2.5 Leg Ltd
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the definite incorrect is the yellow/blue jackstand

Red with black is correct
 

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I agree with @bheinen74: Red with black is correct.

But I would use stronger words regarding the yellow and blue jackstand position: It's not just incorrect; it's extremely unsafe.
 

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When I rotate tires, I just use the spare on the first wheel and work around the car. Jack each corner only once that way and as safe as it gets. Besides, it's an easy time to check the pressure in the spare since the valve faces down in the well. I use a 3-ton jack from Sears that fits everything, including my garden tractor. There are smaller jacks, but both load and lift height are limited. Maybe something like this:
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-steel-heavy-duty-floor-jack-with-rapid-pump-62116.html
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-3-ton-service-jack/p-00950139000P
Also, get a rubber cap for the lifting pad. I found one at Harbor Freight. Or maybe you can use a hockey puck.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hot-Sale-Ru...ter-For-Pinch-Weld-Side-JackPad-/311933075450
 
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When I rotate tires, I just use the spare on the first wheel and work around the car. Jack each corner only once that way and as safe as it gets. Besides, it's an easy time to check the pressure in the spare since the valve faces down in the well.
that is a good idea for rotating, by making use of the spare. (and it comes out of the hatch and gets a pressure test too,)

______

and for the OP here is the recent thread on floor jacks,..

..I have 3 ton one from an estate sale, still in good shape, (I would test one before buying it like that,...I guess some are just sitting under a work bench with a leak, and only the owner that past on knows it needed a fix).

I like the idea older style with more slow pumps to get to the right height going up, vs. the modern racing fast pump which in present day is a selling feature.

I use a terry cloth rag on the top of my floor jack vs. a fancy rubber pad.

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...nce/28363-need-recommendation-floor-jack.html
 

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The picture with the red-and-black jackstand shows correct usage, assuming that the stand is aligned under one of the manufacturer-identified jacking locations. It looks like it probably is, but it's one of those things you want to know for your own car.

The reason: the curved jaw blocks the car from sliding off laterally.

Note that some jackstands have a very deep jaw that can interfere with plastic body molding. You may need to select a set with a shallow jaw for use on an Outback.

2nd reason: the weight should be borne by the vertically aligned body steel. This is a sandwich of several layers welded together, and it is incredibly strong compared to the skin of the rocker panel.
 

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I don't think I'd use jackstands on anything but the frame for fear of breaking through the paint and creating a port for new corrosion.
 

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The yellow/blue location will get you killed.

In my old age I find it much easier to just pay a shop $20 to rotate my tires.
 

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Get a jack with 18"+ of lift. I go with the harbor freight ones.

In my old age I find it much easier to just pay a shop $20 to rotate my tires.
I've wanted to do that for years for tires, oil changes, brake bleeds. but by the time I call, schedule, drop off, they're waiting on other customers, pay, pick it up, i loose flexibility it's simpler for me to do it at home.
 

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When I did this type of stuff on my previous vehicle I used the front sub-frame for jacking and jackstands. I don't trust the pinch weld for the jack stands and figure the sub-frame is taking the weight of the vehicle anyway.

My jack may not have had the height to do a single lift in the rear so I may have stuck closer to the designated points there.

Now they're rusted to the point I don't trust them (jack and stands) so I don't use the setup with the OB and just have it done since where I'm living now doesn't allow me to do it myself.
 

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with floor jacks or jack stands be sure to protect the pinch weld. (that can bend).

l
I have heard that about old models but those with the reinforced "cage" structure should not. I jack both of ours under the pinch weld steel on steel and nothing happens even though the entire weight lay on a 1-2 mm piece of steel.

Get a jack with 18"+ of lift. I go with the harbor freight ones.

I've wanted to do that for years for tires, oil changes, brake bleeds. but by the time I call, schedule, drop off, they're waiting on other customers, pay, pick it up, i loose flexibility it's simpler for me to do it at home.
Yup. My small aluminum HF racing jack did nothing for me on its own and is hilariously inadequate with the 2" lift. They have one that lifts up to 19 3/4 which is what I need to get. The small jack works for the Tribeca.

So while we are on this, has anyone tried to jack in the middle under a door, right between the pillars on a mid2000 or newer model? That is supposed to be part of the "cage" so I would expect it not to bent. I know firefighters could not cut the B-pillar with any of their tools when the ringshaped reinforced body was introduced. I don't know how strong the rocker panel is but I wonder if the jack points aren't really there just to protect the plastic trim rather than the frame itself.

EDIT: I did get hung on a rock once in Bull Canyon near Moab but it was closer to the wheel than to the middle. No damage.
 

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I'm not sure what you mean by the middle. But I think I'm close. I go back far enough that the front and rear are roughly the same height off the ground.

I don't use the pinch weld area though if that's what you mean, I use the frame rail or whatever that's called. That pinch weld is very strong for its size.
 
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