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2008 Subaru Outback 2.5i
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6 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2008 Outback, and the driver's side rear hub bearing was wearing out. I decided to try replacing it myself, and then this happened. It was literally the last bolt I was putting in. I'm not really sure how to get out the remaining piece since I had to use a wobble adapter to remove the bolt in the first place. Also, how safe is this to drive?

I was trying to torque it to spec, and the torque wrench wouldn't click like it did for the top bolt. I kept tightening the bolt thinking that I just had to get it a little bit tighter. Did I just make an expensive mistake?
 

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Master Caster
2005 XT, Mildly Modified...2006 XT Limited, Highly Modifed
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16,118 Posts
I think it's totally safe to drive as long as you keep an eye on it. Check the other 3 bolts. Long term the bearing may wear out quicker. Getting that one back out will be a b*tch.

Lets all remember, I use armstong torque all the time, but a 14mm is a small bolt. The bolts just keep the hub seated. As you know, there is a shoulder that takes the weigh into the knuckle. Hence, why I think it's safe to drive.
 

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Master Caster
2005 XT, Mildly Modified...2006 XT Limited, Highly Modifed
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16,118 Posts
I don't know about "totally" safe to drive.
"marginally" safe then. The Renault LeCar used the minimum of (3) lug bolts to hold the wheels on the car. Maybe using the French as an example isn't "totally safe either.
 

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2008 Subaru Outback 2.5i
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6 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I think it's totally safe to drive as long as you keep an eye on it. Check the other 3 bolts. Long term the bearing may wear out quicker. Getting that one back out will be a b*tch.
There are only two bolts, lol. I'll probably just take it in to a mechanic on Monday.
 

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Master Caster
2005 XT, Mildly Modified...2006 XT Limited, Highly Modifed
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16,118 Posts
There are only two bolts, lol. I'll probably just take it in to a mechanic on Monday.
The hub units have (4) bolts, you sheared one. Did I miss something? I agree that you should get a new steering knuckle, or have it drilled out. But I missed the fact that (2) out of (4) got pooched.
 

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2017 2.5i Premium Lapis Blue
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4,195 Posts
I doubt that the broken bolt will have to be drilled out and re-tapped . In fact it would come out relatively easily with better access. Since it was just out and broke tightening it it isn't like it is rusted in place. Take the caliper back off and there might even be enough of the bolt sticking out to grab onto and turn it out, although from the picture that is doubtful. A left-hand drill bit and reversing drill might spin it right back out as well. Otherwise this might be one of the cases where an easy-out actually works without breaking off in the bolt.
 

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1999 30th Anniversary Legacy Outback DOHC 2.5L 4EAT, 2008 Impreza WRX 2.5L 5MT, 2008 Impreza Wagon 2.5L 4EAT
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1,224 Posts
One option is to get a new caliper with bracket or bracket if available and just replace it. You may be able to take the caliper bracket off and get the end of the bolt out.
 

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2008 Subaru Outback 2.5i
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6 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
The hub units have (4) bolts, you sheared one. Did I miss something? I agree that you should get a new steering knuckle, or have it drilled out. But I missed the fact that (2) out of (4) got pooched.
This isn't the front. This is from the rear, driver's side brake. I removed the wheel hub assembly because the bearing was bad. I put those 4 bolts in just fine, but when I was re-attaching the brake caliper assembly to the back plate, the bottom bolt sheared off. There were only two bolts. I got the top one in fine, and torqued it to 48.7 ft-lbs like it says in the manual. The bottom one kept turning and I couldn't get the torque wrench to click, which ended up shearing off the bolt.

I don't really have the knowledge to properly drill it out. But thanks, to everyone that gave me good advice. I just took it to a mechanic, and they are doing the work.
 

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2008 Subaru Outback 2.5i
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6 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I doubt that the broken bolt will have to be drilled out and re-tapped . In fact it would come out relatively easily with better access. Since it was just out and broke tightening it it isn't like it is rusted in place. Take the caliper back off and there might even be enough of the bolt sticking out to grab onto and turn it out, although from the picture that is doubtful. A left-hand drill bit and reversing drill might spin it right back out as well. Otherwise this might be one of the cases where an easy-out actually works without breaking off in the bolt.
I probably should have tried that, but I was so bummed that I screwed this up. Plus my back was killing me after doing it. I should invest in a good mechanic's creeper to help me get in and out from under the car, lol.
 

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2005 OBXT Limited, VF37, STI intake, 5MT
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1,553 Posts
If you unbolt the caliper from the bracket, unbolt the remaining bolt for the bracket, then slide the whole bracket+rotor off. This should let you vise-grip the bolt remnant.

A replacement bolt may not be super easy to find. ACE or Sears hardware as it's a JIS thread bolt (less common).
 
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