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01 VDC, 05 R Sedan, 06 BAJA EJ257
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STFT will fluctuate neg to pos but should average at 0. Severe trims like your posting in the double digits is wrong. When you let off the throttle at cruising it should go dbl digit neg, its a fuel shut off. At instant trottle it should go pos quick. If when you have steady throttle and the engine is up to temperature the STFT should still remain in single digits and avg 0.

So, there is still a problem somewhere in the system that is making the car run rich. LTFT will be 0 until the computer learns the fuel map.

The fuel has to be shot into the chambers at the right time and correct volume in order to burn proper. You need to find where that timing and volume is being skewed.

Exhaust leak, dirty injectors, crap fuel, air restriction or another sensor is sending false data. MAP/BARO, ECT or knock. Could be out if time at the belt, one or both cams out of time with the crankshaft.
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
I'll check for exhaust leaks tomorrow, and run a can of seafoam through the intake instead of the tank. Thermostat is this weekend as well, since the engine seems to be running a bit warm, between 200 and 210.

If that doesn't work, I'll check the timing belt, that was replaced about 10kish miles ago, so it should be alright, but doesn't hurt to check.

I guess knock would be after that, but I'm not sure.
 

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I had a Volvo 240 back in the early 90's that did the same thing. The service guy took a can of WD-40 and sprayed around the fuel injectors. Smoothed right out for a minute then it started hunting again. Turned out to be dry rotted "O" ring injector seals. What was happening is the piston pulls a vacuum and sucks the fuel mixture into the cylinder. If the "O" ring injector seal leaks it will also suck in a good amount of air. This makes the computer and O2 sensor think its running lean. The computer will try to increase the fuel causing the engine to run rich. Then the O2 sensor see a rich mixture and the computer will lean the mixture. This causes the engine to hunt at Idle. Not saying this is your problem but its a easy test to do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
I can try that tonight, any down sides to spraying WD-40 or Carb Cleaner around the injectors?
 

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01 VDC, 05 R Sedan, 06 BAJA EJ257
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No. You could spray water. Anything that changes the mix in combustion will cause an engine reaction. So even water will change the engine idle if it is sucked through a vacuum leak.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
So...I'm taking the intake manifold off in order to clean the throttle body and clean/inspect the injectors.

I have a slight problem though, I need to know what this hose is for (not my car, but the same hose):



Because it snapped when I was trying to take it out. It was also filled with some sort of brown ooze, I can take a picture of it later.
 

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01 VDC, 05 R Sedan, 06 BAJA EJ257
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PCV. That's where the crankcase gases and oil residue is sucked into your intake. The PCV valve screws into the intake at the other end. That brown ooze is the oil deposits. You can either get another one from Subaru or go to your local parts store and find a match with that bend in it and trim it to fit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Well I got the intake manifold pulled out, and the injectors as well.

Good news, it didn't seem like the o-rings were leaking, but they were somewhat dirty, with dry dirt, not oil or anything else.

Also good news, none of them were stuck open when I tested them about 15 psi of pressure.

Bad news was they all seemed kind of plugged. None atomized the fuel as much as I was expecting, just kind of jetted it from both ports in a straight line. Also extra fuel would dribble slightly off the end of the injectors.

I'm leaving them to soak for a day in seafoam and I'll look for improvement. If there isn't much of one, I think I'm going to send them to Deatschwerks for the $20 injector service. They replace all the o-rings which is almost worth it anyway.

And finally pictures because documentation is good.

Injectors 1 and 3 :




Injectors 2 and 4 :




Now the only thing I don't like is that injector 1 looks like it overheated and then it started fracturing. Oddly though, this was the injector that took the least amount of pressure to move fuel through it, and atomized the fuel the best.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Should I worry about the chipping on injector 1?

It is the second injector from the left in the first 2 pictures.
 

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Should I worry about the chipping on injector 1?

It is the second injector from the left in the first 2 pictures.
No. Its below the seal and will not effect the spray pattern. DW may change it out though when they overhaul them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Well I got my injectors back today.

DW called me Wednesday to say that my injectors didn't really need any work, and they were just going to put new seals in.

The pretest is kind of surprising for injectors this old...

Code:
Injector Mfg/PN: Denso 22s
Testing Pressure: 43.5
           Low Pulse (2ms)     Mid Pulse (4ms)      High Pulse (8ms)           Static Flow
1:        44cc/m 4.38lb/hr    100cc/m 9.52lb/hr   201cc/m 19.14lb/hr        263cc/m 25.5lb/hr
2:        47cc/m 4.48lb/hr    101cc/m 9.62lb/hr   204cc/m 19.43lb/hr        267cc/m 25.43lb/hr
3:        47cc/m 4.48lb/hr    101cc/m 9.62lb/hr   204cc/m 19.43lb/hr        265cc/m 25.24lb/hr
4:        46cc/m 4.38lb/hr    99cc/m  9.43lb/hr   202cc/m 19.24lb/hr        265cc/m 25.24lb/hr
Total Sys:  186   4.38          401      38          811       77             1060       101
Min Flow:   46      4           99        9          201       19             263         25
Max Flow:   47      4           101      10          204       19             267         25
Mean Flow:  47      4           100      10          203       19             265         25
% Var:        2.2%                  2.0%                    1.5%                     1.5%


     Leak Test      Pattern Test      PW Ramp      RPM Ramp   Coil Ohms
1        P                P              P            P          12.8
2        P                P              P            P          12.7
3        P                P              P            P          12.8
4        P                P              P            P          12.8
I'm just amazed that after 200k miles and 14 years, there is absolutely nothing wrong with those injectors...

Since I took the intake manifold off, I looked at my intake valves, and apart from the expected blackness, none looked damaged, and all were sealing nicely. I'll run a can of seafoam through the PCV when everything is back together, and the ECU has learned the fuel trims again.

Anywhoo...so back in everything goes. I cleaned the throttle body with Alcohol and cotton swabs and it shines again.

I'm replacing any hoses that were stiff, I broke, or dry rotted.

And for good measure the PCV valve since it's cheap.

Thermostat is going to be replaced next week when I do all my maintenance on my other car and have my oil pans clean and ready for all the coolant.

I'm going to check the timing belt as well to see if anything is suspicious there. That was done at 185k, and it didn't have any issues until it got cold, but you never know. The person who replaced it replaced all the pulleys and tensioners, but not the water pump. I'm not sure if it was replaced with the first timing belt either, so I may look at replacing that in the near future as well.

The only thing that I can think of that I did wrong in this process was put a Fed emissions cat on a cali emissions car. But in the 2k miles that that has been on, it hasn't thrown any codes relating to a cat.

I'm thinking after finishing putting everything back together and if it still has problems, I'm taking it to a shop to have the timing adjusted. I found a thread on here where someone else had similar problems, had the timing adjusted and everything worked perfectly once again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
So I got a new PCV valve, and I think my old one is functioning better.

Both allow air to pass back into the intake, but my old one will completely stop the flow of air out of the intake.

The new one will allow a slow leak of air out of the intake.

I'm guessing I should not use the new one since it should completely seal all air from exiting the intake?
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
I might as well check the egr soon.

New problem, when I pulled the intake manifold off, I missed the connection for the coolant temp sensor and the wire on the manifold side ripped out of the connector.

When I tried to start it up yesterday one of the radiator fans start running, even though it was -4.

Today I scanned it and got a P0117, and either the temp sensor was on its way out, or I ruined it because I connected the wiring directly to no avail. I'm going to replace it because it's $20 for a new one, and I can check if it gets a signal before I swap them completely out.

I also have a video of what's happening with how the engine is running. I'll post it soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Video.
Things to note, the loud exhaust is because of a small leak where the exhaust bolts to the manifold. It's more of a reverberation then a leak, I just need to fix the gasket. The check engine light is because of the coolant temp sensor mentioned before. The brake light is unknown, turned on when the temp got below 0F. Normally goes off after a mile or so, but I should check the brake fluid, it looked low.

Cold engine issues - YouTube
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Ok, so I had it running tonight, and I think I need to adjust my throttle cables because when it finally idled correctly, it was between 1,800 and 2,050 RPM.

I'm going to post screenshots from Torque and the time frame that this happened in. Please help...

Right before starting the car.



1 minute after starting the car, currently no issues.



1 minute 40 seconds after starting the car.



2 minutes 40 seconds after starting the car. Just tapped the gas to try to get a rev. Car RPM dropped and when let off, never recovered. I tried shutting it off and restarting it to recover, but it never did.



4 minutes 15 seconds after starting the car. This one was delayed because I was trying things to get the RPMs to recover. Nothing worked.



6 minutes 20 seconds after starting the car. Just decided to let thing happen and see what would take place. Engine is heating normally.



8 minutes after starting the car. The idle now will spike to about 525 RPM before dropping back to between 450 and 490



8 minutes 50 seconds after starting the car. The coolant temp now reaches 180 degrees F. I missed when it exactly happened, but as soon as it hit 180 the idle smoothed out, and went to normal idle.



From this point, the car is now drive able, and will respond positively to opening the throttle.

I believe the reason that the RPM dipped so low, is because I adjusted the throttle by opening the throttle with the cable hooks. I might have opened it too far and got it stuck open. I'll have to fix this in the morning, but apart from the extremely low idle, this is what it has been doing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
Well, I redid the timing belt because it seemed to be off a tooth, and one of the idlers was not spinning right.

Replaced the idler pulleys, replaced the thermostat and water pump. One of the water pump bolts sheared off under 6 ft/lbs of torque even though it was hand tightened into the block before that. The other five bolts were perfect, and it hasn't leaked for the 3 days it's been sitting there, so I'm going to leave it for the moment.

I also did a compression test since I was most of the way to that stage anyway, and I believe I finally found the problem...head gaskets...

Cylinder 1 : 175 PSI - Normal
Cylinder 2 : 80 PSI - Half pressure
Cylinder 3 : 135 PSI - 75% Pressure
Cylinder 4 : 135 PSI - 75% Pressure

I also think it's head gaskets because I finally found the oil leak and it's coming from the heads as well.

So, off to replace head gaskets...yay, but I think that will be the end of it, provided I don't find any bent valves in there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
I'm having a problem getting the driver side head off. The passenger side slid out nicely. The driver side is just stuck there. All the head bolts are undone, but it won't budge. Are there any other bolts that hold the head in place? I know the passenger side had one bolt connected to a piece of plastic that held the head in place there, but I can't find anything on the driver side.

Also as a side note, when I pulled the top middle head bolt on the driver side, there was a dry white powder that came out with it. It had an odd smell to it as well.
 

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did your problem end up being the head gasket? I just replace the solenoid on my 98 legacy outback. the idle is much better, but when I drop it into reverse/drive the idle pulses pretty good. It drops from 1500RPM to 400-700RPM. I have also replaced my TPS.

Any thoughts/tips?
 
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