This is my car, not Subarus or the federal governments. I want to disable the immobilize system on my 2006 Outback XT. So has anyone done it?
Immobilizer delete
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I'm a fairly paranoid person when it comes to my vehicle, but as far as I know the immobilizer system in the '05-'09 doesn't have anything to do with Subaru or the government controlling your vehicle.
I think you've been watching too much Mr. Robot, which is fabulous by the way. But you're misinterpreting what the immobilizer does in this generation. It's not like the OnStar system that can receive outside signals and can remotely disable your vehicle.
The immobilizer systems in these models are local to the vehicle and pair the transponder in the key to the ECU of the vehicle in an effort to prevent it from starting if there is a discrepency with the key such as in the event of theft. To the best of my knowledge it is not activatable by an outside entity without physical access to your vehicle. And I don't believe that the system can effectively be exized from the car without putting in a custom ECU system.
That said, I will never own a car with OnStar or similar without taking a good pair of sidecuts to a lot of things. So change the brand of tin foil you're using and make sure to keep the dull side out. :hide:
No. Not easily.
The OP never said they could control it - the OP just said it is his car.
It's additional, sometimes unnecessary, failure modes that could strand a driver. That's reasonable for someone to want to decline it.
The OP never said they could control it - the OP just said it is his car.
It's additional, sometimes unnecessary, failure modes that could strand a driver. That's reasonable for someone to want to decline it.
Minor correction- the immobilizer doesn't actually prevent the car from starting. It will start, but a timer also starts and if the system doesn't get a clear read from the key transponder before timeout, the system activates and cuts out the fuel subsystem. I don't know what the timeout duration is, but the general idea is that the car can be started for diagnostic purposes, but can't be driven more than a half block or so to prevent property theft.
I do understand how it works and such. I also know that "THEY" can not actively control my car. But they are still in control due to the factory setup.
This site is about "US" wanting to be different than the "SHEEP" that take what they give us. "WE" change things, sometime well beyond what Suzuki and the "Fed's" had in mind. "WE" make them ours.
I just do not like having to buy a $65 blank chipped key (each) and then pay the Stealership another $75 to program my keys. And if for some reason the system kicks out my keys link I end up with a $8,000 tin rock in my driveway until I can have that same Stealership tow my car and do their magic for another Flat Rate service call plus towing.
I have a nice collection of "Tin" hats. I inherited them from my Mother-inlaw from Salem OR. She worked at the State Hospital. They make the best ones in there.
This site is about "US" wanting to be different than the "SHEEP" that take what they give us. "WE" change things, sometime well beyond what Suzuki and the "Fed's" had in mind. "WE" make them ours.
I just do not like having to buy a $65 blank chipped key (each) and then pay the Stealership another $75 to program my keys. And if for some reason the system kicks out my keys link I end up with a $8,000 tin rock in my driveway until I can have that same Stealership tow my car and do their magic for another Flat Rate service call plus towing.
I have a nice collection of "Tin" hats. I inherited them from my Mother-inlaw from Salem OR. She worked at the State Hospital. They make the best ones in there.
Yes, it is a fuel cut mechanism. But in the broader sense, simply an anti-theft device, not a remote control device. The time to fuel cut is mere seconds. No way to drive the car any distance, let alone get in gear.
On my previous car, I bypassed the GM Keypass3 system by simply removing the transponder from the valet key and gluing it to the reciever. I did this to allow remote start without a transponder bypass kit. This had the weird added benefit of making it so that the car wouldn't start with my normal key: since the system would detect the still-present transponder in my normal key and the transponder from the valet key at the same time when I started with the key and it would trip the anti-theft and kill the fuel as if there was no key at all. Won a few bets that way. >
But as far as what OP I believe is going for is the ability for someone remotely to disable the vehicle, and that's not possible on this generation of vehicle. Newer ones, yes, but these models don't have that ability.
A German friend of mine has a Suzuki motorcycle with the immobilizer system. He took the "RING" off the ignition switch setup and glued a chipped key in it and sealed it up under the dash. Now he can start it with a common cut key.
I stand corrected.I do understand how it works and such. I also know that "THEY" can not actively control my car. But they are still in control due to the factory setup.
This site is about "US" wanting to be different than the "SHEEP" that take what they give us. "WE" change things, sometime well beyond what Suzuki and the "Fed's" had in mind. "WE" make them ours.
I just do not like having to buy a $65 blank chipped key (each) and then pay the Stealership another $75 to program my keys. And if for some reason the system kicks out my keys link I end up with a $8,000 tin rock in my driveway until I can have that same Stealership tow my car and do their magic for another Flat Rate service call plus towing.
I have a nice collection of "Tin" hats. I inherited them from my Mother-inlaw from Salem OR. She worked at the State Hospital. They make the best ones in there.
Well, to get rid of the transponder system, you'd have to gut the entire ECU system and put in a custom ECU. They do make them, and I think they're $1-2k.
I agree that the system can completely bork your day in more ways than one and that it's a poor anti-theft system at best. But if it were easily removable, it wouldn't be a very good system.
Yeah, lots of cuckoo's flying over nests around here.
I'm not sure the ECU is the biggest issue- I know there is a cryptographic link between the key transponder and the immobilizer- and I understand that the body-integrated unit is the hardware that actually executes the immobilizer logic. That device also has a cryptographic link to the combination meter (dash gauges) to ensure odometer integrity.
I've never tried to hack my XT into madmax-level dependability, but it strikes me that whether I can keep using the stock ECU or not isn't a big deal: a lot of work would have to be done to get gauges and body-electric equipment sorted.
But why stop there? Any common automotive ECU can be remotely fried with enough radiated RF or microwave energy.
There was a great example in the early 1970s. A VW Squareback (early fuel injected model) was brought via tow-truck to a dealer service bay with a completely fried fuel injection ECU, somewhere in the American west. The technicians scratched their heads, replaced the ECU under warranty and sent it back out. It came back the very next day with the same problem. The owner reported that the car lost power at exactly the same spot on the mountain road.
It turned out that the car was passing through a telephone company microwave beam that had been directed from one hilltop to another across the path of the road.
Modern automotive processors are much hardier, but still ultimately susceptible. Maybe time to rig up a distributor, points & condenser?
I've never tried to hack my XT into madmax-level dependability, but it strikes me that whether I can keep using the stock ECU or not isn't a big deal: a lot of work would have to be done to get gauges and body-electric equipment sorted.
But why stop there? Any common automotive ECU can be remotely fried with enough radiated RF or microwave energy.
There was a great example in the early 1970s. A VW Squareback (early fuel injected model) was brought via tow-truck to a dealer service bay with a completely fried fuel injection ECU, somewhere in the American west. The technicians scratched their heads, replaced the ECU under warranty and sent it back out. It came back the very next day with the same problem. The owner reported that the car lost power at exactly the same spot on the mountain road.
It turned out that the car was passing through a telephone company microwave beam that had been directed from one hilltop to another across the path of the road.
Modern automotive processors are much hardier, but still ultimately susceptible. Maybe time to rig up a distributor, points & condenser?
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So 1997 Subaru outback with EJ20 conversion 5 speed manual but I've got a new keybarrel and key because old ones weren't working so I just need help trying to hook the new immobilizer up to my original ECU if possible anyone able to help. Located Adelaide SA
My understanding is this has to be done by a dealership because only they have access to the software required to reprogram the various parts of the system to link up to the new ignition and key you have.
A good locksmith may be able to help with this as it is an older model vehicle.
I think that all you need to have done is to have the immobiliser chip from your old key or fob duplicated onto a new key or fob that the locksmith will provide.
Some of the older keys and fobs had the immobiliser chip inside them and you could simply remove the immobiliser chip and transfer it to the new key or fob.
If you can open your key or fob, look for a small black plastic rectangle. They are typically about 6mm x 2mm x 2mm.
Seagrass
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