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2017 Outback Premium 2.5i, Crystal White, Slate Black Cloth, Eyesight, Moonroof, Nav, 20mm RSB
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Discussion Starter #1
I'm about to do my 20K oil change, and I'm going to get a Fumoto valve.
Questions for those of you that have one. I plan on using a hose from the valve to the collection pan; has anyone had clearance problems with the 108N vs 108S?
Is the locking plastic clip necessary, or just a peace of mind item? I'm thinking, that since I can't see the valve when I change my oil, it would be a PITA when doing the change, but don't know how securely the valve stays closed on its own.

Thanks.
 

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2017 Outback Premium 2.5 with Eyesight. 19mm Rear Sway Bar. Steering Dampener Lock Down. HID upgrade from retrofit source.
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198 Posts
I’ve had the fumoto on for 7000 miles without the clip no issue. It is secure enough without the clip. It makes draining the oil a mess free event.
 

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2016 3.6 Limited with ES
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2,701 Posts
I'm running the N and the clip too.

The clip is for piece of mind and has always been securely attached where I left it 6k miles ago.

There are ZERO clearance issues with the N valve. It doesnt extend below the plastic shield and it's not even close. If the valve were ever to be accidentally opened during your travels the car will have sustained a lot more damage making an open valve the least of your worries.
 
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2017 Outback Premium 2.5i, Crystal White, Slate Black Cloth, Eyesight, Moonroof, Nav, 20mm RSB
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610 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
The deed is done.

I found references that a 19mm crow foot was needed ... a 19mm crowfoot will NOT fit over the square valve body. It took a 15/16 to do it. It would also help if I had a better floor jack that could lift the front end higher.

I had borrowed a 19mm crowfoot from a local shop that I use for everything else, and after it didn't work, I found a short 17/19mm open end wrench that I could get onto the body at an angle, and get it tight. When I went to return the crowfoot, I asked if they could put the car on the lift so I could double check; that's when I found that a 15/16" was needed. The mechanic noted the hex end on the valve, and asked why not to use that. I told him that the Fumoto instructions specifically said not to. We tried a 3/4 crow foot (a near match to 19mm), then the 15/16, and I was able to tighten the valve just a little bit more without putting a lot of force on it.

So, I'm looking forward to neat & clean oil changes from now on. I could not get the plug out without oil splashing all over my hand, and making a mess, even with the collection pan underneath.
 

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2018 2.5i Premium - No Eyesight (and proud of it)
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144 Posts
I just did my first oil change at 2000 miles and installed a Fumoto F108N. It was tight fitting under the car on my back without jacking the car up but I managed to get it.
I used a 19mm crow foot to tighten mine. It fit on the body of the valve.
No clearance issues. Does not protrude below skid guard.


Note: to get the drain plug off for the first time can be a challenge. I took a 6 point 1/2" drive 14mm heavy duty socket and ground down the front to just past the bevel. This ensures that there
is more contact gripping the drain plug. Got under the car and made sure the socket was squarely and securely on the plug before loosing, it broke free with just a few hard tugs.
 

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2011 2.5 CVT with lpg
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I can't remember what size, 19 or 20mm, but a normal open ended spanner was all that was needed to tighten the fumoto body on my 2011 2.5, absolutely no clearance issues whatsoever. Even with the nipple, it doesn't protrude lower than the anti roll (sway) bar, so the plastic underguard clears it easily when it's refitted.
 

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2017 Outback Premium 2.5i, Crystal White, Slate Black Cloth, Eyesight, Moonroof, Nav, 20mm RSB
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610 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Rolled over 25K today, so I did the oil change (I do 5K, not 6K, as I get an additional reminder staring me in the face)

Next time, I'll probably run a hair dryer, or hot water, or leave the tube out in the sun for a bit (that one would not have worked today, as TS Michael passed by) to make it easier to get the tube on the nipple. I'm also either going to run up my ramps just a tiny bit, or get some 2x10s to make it easier for me to slide under the car and see the valve as I'm taking off the clip, attaching the hose, and opening the valve.

I was a tiny bit concerned about whether I'd be able to tell that the pan had drained, but it was very obvious once it had (clear tubing, and you could see that it was no longer draining oil. Close the valve, remove the tube and shove it on top of the drain pan/container, and all was good.

I'm only sorry I didn't do this at my first change.
 

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2017 2.5i Limited with Eyesight
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You were lucky. A gorilla at the dealership (first 3 oil changes were free) had tightened mine up so hard I stripped the crap out of it. I had to take my car to a friend who had a lift, weld a wrench to the drain bolt and with a 18" metal pipe attached it came off. Installed the 108N and good to go :)
As other have said there are no clearance issues as the nipple does not even get close to poking out below the plastic "skid plate"


Semper Fi
 

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'18 Outback Limited/Ex: 2000 Outback Limited
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Did a 'first oil change' on her '18...I would like to know what/who first installed that drain plug. I ended using a total of about 3' of leverage to pop that sucker loose. I really don't think that it was the paint that held it in so tight, just way over torqued from the start.


Installed "EZ oil Drain Valve"...that part was easy. Just use a 22mm crowfoot.


Just my 2¢...


Bill
 

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2018 Legacy 36R
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297 Posts
I have had two Fumoto valves and no problems. Some have said you may not get all the oil out but I think if a little is left in the pan it won't matter.


For my new Subaru I decided to try an EZ valve, mentioned by BillE507, there are rumors it is made by Fumoto as well. I decided to try the EZ becaue it uses an O ring instead of a gasket and the because the nipple unscrews from the valve so there would be no danger of knocking it off.
 

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2016 3.6 Limited with ES
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@tumble-

You make a very good point on not all the used oil coming out and relatively speaking, it doesn't matter.

Even if one vacuums or drains the pan dry, oil is still sitting and pooling in places throughout the engine that never drains back into the pan.

All of the used oil never leaves the pan no matter ones drain method.
 

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2018 White Outback Touring 2.5i
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@tumble-

You make a very good point on not all the used oil coming out and relatively speaking, it doesn't matter.

Even if one vacuums or drains the pan dry, oil is still sitting and pooling in places throughout the engine that never drains back into the pan.

All of the used oil never leaves the pan no matter ones drain method.
I'm a dummy because I will rock the car up & down by pushing on the fenders trying to get the last drop out of the engine. :grin2:
 

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2015 Premium 2.5, Motegi MR118 wheels, Curt 2" hitch receiver, Yakima 2" Dr. Tray 3x bike rack
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I don't know how much it actually helps, but I usually pour in half a quart of fresh oil up top at the end of the 'draining' process. You can typically see a bit more dark oil come out and then lighter oil starts to appear right before it stops dripping into the pan.
 

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2017 Outback Premium 2.5 with Eyesight. 19mm Rear Sway Bar. Steering Dampener Lock Down. HID upgrade from retrofit source.
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Posted back in May. I'm up to 19500 miles and two oil changes after install on the Fumoto and still no issues. Love it. Wish all of my previous vehicles had a Fumoto. With a scrap piece of tubing it makes oil changes mess-free.
 

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2013 Outback, 2.5i Limited w/ Moonroof
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@tumble-

You make a very good point on not all the used oil coming out and relatively speaking, it doesn't matter.

Even if one vacuums or drains the pan dry, oil is still sitting and pooling in places throughout the engine that never drains back into the pan.

All of the used oil never leaves the pan no matter ones drain method.
Absolutely correct.

The Subaru Maintenance Manual says that for the 2.5, engine oil Total Capacity (at overhaul) is 6.0 quarts. And it shows 5.1 quarts at oil and filter change. So the few ounces that may get left in the bottom of the oil pan isn't significant when compared to the almost 29 ounces that stays elsewhere in the engine. For the 3.6 the difference between total capacity and oil/filter change is even greater.

So don't sweat the small stuff.
 

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2016 Outback Touring H4 6MT
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Well I installed the F108N Fumoto today but didn't have the required 19 mm crowfoot to properly tighten it … daxm.

So I adjusted a large pair of visegrips to 19 mm jaw width and slipped them over the nipple onto the valve body then used a pair of channel lock pliers to twist the visegrips to tighten the valve in the drain hole. If I can locate a crowfoot I'll double check the torque.

I like challenges.
 

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2016 Outback Touring H4 6MT
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2017 Outback Premium 2.5i, Crystal White, Slate Black Cloth, Eyesight, Moonroof, Nav, 20mm RSB
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Discussion Starter #19
I don't know how much it actually helps, but I usually pour in half a quart of fresh oil up top at the end of the 'draining' process. You can typically see a bit more dark oil come out and then lighter oil starts to appear right before it stops dripping into the pan.
I used to do that on my 2002 Maxima, which needed 4.5 US quarts, and I bought my oil in the 5 quart jugs. Now, I figure that millions of cars leave (collectively) small fractions of millions of quarts, and if you change your oil & filter regularly, it really doesn't matter. I hope. I'll probably die before it matters in the Outback.
 
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