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'04 Outback Limited
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13 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

I've had my wagon for a while now, 124K miles on the clock.

Last winter the fuel pump went. In the process of dying on a long uphill grade the engine was making a tapping sound which I assumed was a knocking/lean condition. Replaced the fuel pump, fired it up, and no, it wasn't a lean condition.

Rod bearing.

The car's been down for the last year or so. Pulled the engine and rebuilt it. New crank - original had bent - and one new rod. How does a crank that short with 5 main bearings bend?! Bored, new pistons, etc. All new bearings, rings, seals, gaskets....

Next, on to the body.

Brake calipers, rotors, pads all replaced. Discovered the steel brake lines exiting the passenger floor had rusted, as had the junction block and ends of the lines that feed the rear brakes. I'm replacing those with NiCopp lines. In the process, I had to cut the plastic cover pieces under the car to remove them, the bolts were too badly rusted, rounded, and stuck to get them off any other way. I haven't seen a part number for those covers - I'm thinking of leaving them off, or maybe bending up a few pieces of aluminum.

Since it appears easier, I'm removing the rear sub frame to replace the brake lines. While that's out, inspect for damage and install new bushings, inspect the fuel filler lines, etc. Hoping the gas tank seams are in good condition and not rusted. Depending on the extend of rust on the sub frame, either a new Subaru frame or dismantler. I'd rather not play with the fuel tank, but if I have too...

Looks like I'll need to use something like POR 15 on the rear underside floor and rails. Screw driver hasn't poked through anywhere from the bottom - yet. Have the typical rust through on the rear quarters to deal with though.

Needs a new intermediate exhaust pipe and muffler/tail pipe.

A little farther down on the to-do list, air conditioning compressor feels like it's seized. No biggie at this point, remove the belt. Rear window washer needs attention. Rear bumper cover bottom mounts need replaced.

Interior is in good shape, weather stripping still looks good, paint other than the rust through is in good shape. Sun roof doesn't pop up - I have a couple of rubber door stops to prop it open until i decide to tackle that project.

From the mid point forward it looks really good underneath.

That's my project - at this point - in a nut shell. Hopefully peeling back the layers of the onion won't add more to the list.

I've been doing a lot of searches and reading up on other's projects and appreciate the postings. Not sure how much I can add to the knowledge base :laugh: but I'll try. Appreciate the feed back and tips, looking forward to getting this thing back on the road by the end of the summer.


Jeff
 

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On the Super Mod Squad
2002 Pair: 3.0 VDC Wag & 2.5 Limited Sedan
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26,194 Posts
surprised you bothered to do internals on a EJ251 or EJ259

vs. just rounding up a goodie long or short block from a local wreck/ rust bucket.
 

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'04 Outback Limited
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13 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I though about going the wreck/rust donor avenue.

I tore my motor down because I wanted to see what failed. Once it was apart I weighed my options - go with a used lump and inherit someone else's problems or rebuild and know what I have?

If I picked up a used engine, I probably would have wanted to replace the timing belt and related, along with the head gaskets. Of course, this tinkerer probably couldn't resist the "while I'm in there" temptation.

Decided to just redo what I had.
 

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'04 Outback Limited
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13 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Back to the project....

Decided to pull the fuel tank. Seam appears to be rusting and flaking. I went down this road with a Honda once, gas would wick through the seam and leak. In the spirit of while I'm in there....replacement tank it will be.

I think it'll be a good idea to replace the filler assembly as well. One of the evap lines at the canister rusted through. Filler pipe looks rusty in a few spots. Read enough to know I'm not alone in that regard.

Two rust holes to repair underneath - one in the left side rocker, one under the right side floor. Need to practice mig welding coke can thin factory sheet metal!

Plan of attack: fix rust holes, repair 3 captive nuts/chase threads in frame, POR15, NiCopp brake lines with ss nuts and couplings, replacement fuel filler assembly, replace rubber emission hoses, replacement tank, still undecided on rear cradle - clean mine up, used, or New, all new bushings, cat back exhaust. Until I discover something else...

Brackets for the emissions components behind the tank crumbled in my hands. Pinch clamps on the small rubber hoses broke with my finger nails. It's a shame - car is in really decent shape otherwise. Subaru - better materials choice!

Well, as my neighbor said...."..you should be good for another 20 years"!
 

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On the Super Mod Squad
2002 Pair: 3.0 VDC Wag & 2.5 Limited Sedan
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