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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi guys, I'm in the process of buying a new 2012. One dealer has offered me a 2013 for $825 more than another dealer's best price on a 2012. They are optioned exactly the same. I've read about all the improvements on the 2013... do you think it's worth the extra money? :confused: Thanks for your help!

UPDATE: I bought a 2012: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/453623-post24.html
 

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not even close. big things like engine, suspension, down to the little things like auto headlight delay. 2013 comes with every fix that 2010-2012 should have had to begin with.
 

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By the numbers... At equal/normalized discount 2012/2013, even at -2% 2012 depreciation hit that’s $500/$25K (or $325 2013 delta). As in the other thread, post your numbers.
But regardless... Yes!<O:p</O:p
 

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Yes, I spent a lot more upgrading from a 2011 Legacy (same chassis) to a 13 outback and the difference's are easily worth it. My sister also has a 2011 Outback which is a great car but for that kind of money you should definately just go with the 2013. Go back to the 2013 Outback thread starting in the end of June for comments of peoples impressions. If there is something specific you want to know go ahead and ask and I'll answer but if you want to know all its burried on this site!
 

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2013 all the way.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Haha, point taken, guys! :29: :D I've been back and forth with so many dealers today my brain has turned into mush. Thanks for the confirmation!
 

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First of all Jonny have you followed the advice of this forum you should be able to get a 13 for $1000 under invoice with not too much effort. Send out your requirements to a number of dealers with a 100 mile driving distance. Allow them to get back to you and expect to spend at least 5 working days so the sales force can clear offers with their management. You should be able to get a 13 for the same price or less since 12's they are paying for (cost of money).
It worked for me and others here so hope this helps...
 

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The question is...can you haggle more to get more than $825 off? For example, you can haggle so that IN ADDITION to the money, you would get accessories that you want for free. That may be worth a try if you don't mind staying with 2012 model.
 

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2013 due to the following reasons: Better CVT (much smoother..less waffleing around in lower speeds), Timing chain instead of timing belt, smoother ride and better handling + much less body roll. The '12 is a great car, but when '13's are showing up they are the clear choice. If you were looking at a '12 I would look at slightly used under 10K mileage units and you may be able to get a deal. Drive them both on the interstate as well as on country roads. Find a dealer that will let you keep them overnight. You will see the difference. Find some twisty road and you will see the difference. Its amazing how different they ride and handle! In terms of pricing check to see if they will give you Subaru employee pricing. Most Indiana dealers will, but in Florida you may need to ask. To get a benchmark call an Indiana dealer and ask. I believe its 1% over invoice
 

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Discussion Starter #14
First of all Jonny have you followed the advice of this forum you should be able to get a 13 for $1000 under invoice with not too much effort. Send out your requirements to a number of dealers with a 100 mile driving distance. Allow them to get back to you and expect to spend at least 5 working days so the sales force can clear offers with their management. You should be able to get a 13 for the same price or less since 12's they are paying for (cost of money).
It worked for me and others here so hope this helps...
Yeah, I was following the recommended strategy :29: and I have been pouring over a pile of emails all day. I originally sought out a 2012 because it's the end of the month and dealers are trying to clear way for 2013's so I figured I could land a deal. One dealer didn't have a 2012 to quote me so he offered a 2013, which is what landed me in this predicament.

Right now the 2012 is $1500 under invoice and the 2013 is $900 under invoice (according to Edmunds.com). I think I've hit rock bottom pricing because most have dropped out and I'm down to just a handful of dealers (down from about 20).
 

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Do you have a trade? I have seen that Subaru dealers are reluctant to blow the market on pricing of the car, but they will squeeze more money for your trade. I was able to get more than $1000 extra for my trade from their first offer. For their books to Subaru it must matter more on the margin on the sold car than the financed deal
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Do you have a trade? I have seen that Subaru dealers are reluctant to blow the market on pricing of the car, but they will squeeze more money for your trade. I was able to get more than $1000 extra for my trade from their first offer. For their books to Subaru it must matter more on the margin on the sold car than the financed deal
Nope, no trade :(

Man, you guys have got me stoked for a 2013 though!
 

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like others have said, get the 2013.

I just bought a 2012 last week in Canada, it was $3000 cheaper due to a manufacturer to dealer cash incentive. With that kind of rebate, a 2012 makes sense as I plan to keep the car for a long time.
If it had been $1500, I would have probably picked the 2013...
 

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I've read about all the improvements on the 2013... do you think it's worth the extra money? :confused: Thanks for your help!
YES. Ive owned a 2010 2.5i, 2012 2.5i, and now the 2013 2.5i. The 2013 is well worth the additional $$$. The new FB25 is great.
 

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Well you did not say if it was a 6 or 4 cylinder. If it's a 4 cylinder you will recover the cost increase in gas in about 6 and a half years if gas is 5 bucks a gallon and you travel 12K miles per year.. That is becuase the engine gets about 2mpg combined better mileage. However 4 bucks or less would be more like 10 years. So the diffrence in mileage is probalby not the answer.. Who knows how long you will keep it.

However you get slighly more HP, and torque. The CVT is smoother and upgraded for slighly better acceleration, and the suspension has been upgraded. If you get a limted the big thing is that you now have AC vents in the back. Even the base model now has blue tooth and USB ablity. Also you might get a $800 discount but the fact the car is instantly a year old makes that discount worth nothing. if you end up trading it in only a few years.. And no timing belt to chage at 100K miles costing maybe $450 bucks..

We are getting a new 2013 over a 12 because we think the upgrades are worth it. We are getting it about 2% under invoice.. Besides here in Tampa the only incentive on a 12 is lower interest rate by 0.75 than I can get though my credit union. I really dont' see a reason to get a 12 over a 13 unless you just don't like the new front end and the upsidedown oil filter any you really like that sky blue one left on the lot... :D
 

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Sooo....two threads by the OP, one saying he's bringing home a '12, another saying he's wondering if the '13 is worth the price difference, both threads started on the same day. So which is is man? The '13 or the '12? Curious what you're coming home with!

But to chime in on the '12 vs '13 chatter. Drive both, and see which one you like better. If you get the one that you like better, you'll be happier, and that's very likely worth the price difference.

I drove a '12 and a '13 within 24 hours of one another. To me, all the changes for the '13 made the price difference worth it. I liked the feel of the '13 better (suspension tweaks, generation 2 CVT) and the looks (gauges and bigger foglights) so that's what I took home. But in my case, the '12 that I drove had the shakes at highway speeds, and the price difference was only about $250.

But everyone has their preferences. I've read right here in these forums that some people like the softer ride of the '12 better than the firmed-up '13. So the '12 may be the right car for you...depends on what you want.
 
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