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Hello Folks -

So we purchased our 2013 Outback and have been thoroughly impressed thus far (just shy of 1000 miles). The integrated roof rack system is a nice idea, and works well with our Yakima luggage box. Unfortunately, when we went to try putting our 15 ft Coleman Ram-X canoe on top, we ran into a little problem: the main structural support for the canoe, which is an aluminum beam located in the middle of the canoe, is raised up out of the canoe by about six inches. This meant that, when we put the canoe on top of the car, the main support sat right on top of the middle of the roof of the OB, with only part of the weight of the canoe being supported by the integrated rack.

Has anybody ran into this problem before and come up with a solution? I would prefer to avoid buying an aftermarket rack (although I have a Yakima Rack that I could convert over to the "railgrab" system). I had considered buying those foam pieces for car top canoe hauling sans roof rack, but my past experience with those was that they would scratch the **** out of the roof of the car. Is there any other way to raise up the canoe?
 

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That would be an issue with your canoe given most properly built canoes - sit flat on their rails with no cross supports sticking up. I'm not even sure my rail grabs on the stock bars with yackima cross bars would give you enough clearance to clear that bar.

Can you drill out the aluminum rivets and flip the bar over and rivet it back into place? Very possible its installed upside down to start with. LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Can you drill out the aluminum rivets and flip the bar over and rivet it back into place? Very possible its installed upside down to start with. LOL
I never considered modifying the canoe. That's a novel idea. I'll take a look at its construction when I get home tonight.
 

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I never considered modifying the canoe. That's a novel idea. I'll take a look at its construction when I get home tonight.
Your local ACE hardware carries aluminum rivets and a basic rivet gun - be sure to put a little silicone on it before you set it in place. Don't drill it out too large or the rivets won't hold. Other than that pretty easy to do.
 

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2012 2.5i Outback LTM
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judging by pictures on the web, someone has modified this. All pictures show the center crossbar at or below the gunwales.
 

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Yes didn't sound right to me either. I've been shopping canoes and found a local retired canoe collector who is going to set me up when I get the funding sorted. The basic rules he gave me regarding canoe selection were very interesting. He has about 12 in his back yard buys and sells them and collects rare one's etc - kinda funny hobby but crazy fun to talk with and learn about canoe design.

His number one rule - any Canoe over 75LBs is too heavy for any sort of use period.
The listed canoe weights are estimated build weights and actual weight is something you need to check via a fish scale etc. He said most well built canoes will run in the 65-68Lb range. This is for your fairly standard family canoe 16ft etc. Which is what I'm looking at picking up.

I have used my Dads Canoe an older Kevlar 16footer a few times the past two summers ironically he bought it from this same guy two years ago. LOL That canoe tips in at 63lbs on the fish scale. Very sleek and pretty **** fast canoe very easy to maintain a solid speed with little effort - wife and I were cruising past fairly decent sized kayak paddlers who clearly needed to put in more effort to carry similar speeds. Of course the really nice full cruiser Kayaks are pretty **** quick but not as stable or as load capable as the canoe. Pretty cool adventure learning about this stuff. Looking forward to adding a 16footer to our camping gear.
 

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2012 Outback Premium Ruby Red Pearl 2.5 CVT AWP
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Yes didn't sound right to me either. I've been shopping canoes and found a local retired canoe collector who is going to set me up when I get the funding sorted. The basic rules he gave me regarding canoe selection were very interesting. He has about 12 in his back yard buys and sells them and collects rare one's etc - kinda funny hobby but crazy fun to talk with and learn about canoe design.

His number one rule - any Canoe over 75LBs is too heavy for any sort of use period.
The listed canoe weights are estimated build weights and actual weight is something you need to check via a fish scale etc. He said most well built canoes will run in the 65-68Lb range. This is for your fairly standard family canoe 16ft etc. Which is what I'm looking at picking up.

I have used my Dads Canoe an older Kevlar 16footer a few times the past two summers ironically he bought it from this same guy two years ago. LOL That canoe tips in at 63lbs on the fish scale. Very sleek and pretty **** fast canoe very easy to maintain a solid speed with little effort - wife and I were cruising past fairly decent sized kayak paddlers who clearly needed to put in more effort to carry similar speeds. Of course the really nice full cruiser Kayaks are pretty **** quick but not as stable or as load capable as the canoe. Pretty cool adventure learning about this stuff. Looking forward to adding a 16footer to our camping gear.
Hey Subie, could you PM me the canoe guy's info?
 

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He is located in Walnut Creek CA - just east of San Francisco. Only does local craigs list based sales etc. Super cool guy to BS with about boats.

If he's in your range I'll send you his info
Walnut Creek is 10 min from my house! Would like the info if you are comfortable with sharing...
 
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