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'04 Outback Limited
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13 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'm in the process of trying to pull the rear sub-frame from disc to disc for rebuild/refurb/replace.

For whomever's removed the rear sub-frame, where did you place jack stands?

Seems every location able to carry the load safely is located on the sub-frame. Tried the frame-looking members under the rear floor but quickly backed off fearing stands would buckle the small frame section and poke through the floor. Not sure how well the pinch weld under the rocker will hold up.

Appreciate any tips!

Jeff
 

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On the Super Mod Squad
2002 Pair: 3.0 VDC Wag & 2.5 Limited Sedan
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26,197 Posts
one of my cars has a new one on it, but it was done on a post lift. (I have a 2nd one to put on the other car).

when I jack at the sides of the car I use wooden blocks with slots for the pinch weld, these are set on the jack / jack stand to avoid bending the old pinch weld.

(not sure I would crawl under there with such on,....I typically use the wood blocks for changing tires when just using a floor jack).

and I did know a guy a long time ago that was crushed to death by a 2000 subaru outback. (working on it outside).


______

people talk about drilling some small holes in the main frame body above where the sub frame bolts into it. such that so you can spray into them a week in advance with penetrating oil and give it a chance to work permitting the bolts to come out easier. (which I did, and then you seal them up again when done with the swap). and maybe spray some penetrating oil up bewtween the sub frame and the car wherever you can.

on my car the 2 "eccentric" bolts that face you when looking under the bumper of the car needed to be replaced. the mechanic that put the new one on, told me to buy them, for the alignment guy to put on. both agreed they would come off neat one more time, but the heads were just abused to much from the swap job to align the car.

901700122 and known to subaru as a "Bolt Cam" (I paid like $8 for the pair I needed ).




I know there is one junk yard up there in NH that brings unrusted subarus up from down south to cut up. and one of the things they sell is used 2000-2004 legacy / outback subframes.

However I bought new sub frames from subaru. (both came from subaru parts warehouse in CT, on one of their 30% off sales they have around May and October.). this so they have new rubber, and no rust.
 

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2008 OB Limited 2.5i, Portland OR USA
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I think the pinch welds are OK for support, so long as they aren't rusted. And if you go with slotted supports such as @eagleeye suggested, then it can rest on the base of the pinch weld seam, not the tips, such that there's no chance of the pinched part buckling.

Note the slots are not as much for safety as for protection of the integrity of the weld. But I'll be the first to admit I wouldn't want to be under it if the pinch buckled and the car dropped 1" or so on one side- as I likewise know of two situations where someone was seriously hurt by a car slipping, and I personally intervened in a third situation to stop it before it got that far.

And finally, I use Quickjacks rather than safety stands for support, as there's virtually no chance of anything tipping over.

Do be careful of weight distribution when you drop off the rear subframe - it's going to put more of the weight distribution forward.
 

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2002 Outback
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705 Posts
I had my car on a 2 post lift when I did mine and the lift pads were on the rocker panel pinch weld (no grooved block). As long as the rockers are sound, it should be OK. It would probably be a good idea to use a wood block on top of the jack stand for a bit more stability. Make sure the wood grain goes perpendicular to the pinch weld or the block will split.
 

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'04 Outback Limited
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13 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the replies...

I removed - cut off - the plastic pieces bridging the gap between the passenger foot well and fuel tank on the under side of the car. It exposed sections of frame rail that I can get jack stands under. Jack stands are forward of the cradle so I'll be able to lower the cradle with a transmission jack and pull it out under the rear bumper.

Haven't had time to get back to the project, but the cradle is about ready to come out. I just need to figure out how to disconnect the e-brake lines.

On safety, I was shy about using the pinch weld. Seen too many of those buckle. I placed the tires under the rockers, and keep the floor jack under the car as well, as a safety measure.

Not sure about the cradle condition, but all the bushings need replaced and the steel brake lines as well. I figure if nothing else, all those will be easier with the cradle removed. Worst case, the cradle is already out if I find it's too rusty to re-install.

Probably will have more questions later.

Thanks again!
 

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'04 Outback Limited
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Discussion Starter #6
edit...people talk about drilling some small holes in the main frame body above where the sub frame bolts into it. such that so you can spray into them a week in advance with penetrating oil and give it a chance to work permitting the bolts to come out easier. (which I did, and then you seal them up again when done with the swap). and maybe spray some penetrating oil up between the sub frame and the car wherever you can.

on my car the 2 "eccentric" bolts that face you when looking under the bumper of the car needed to be replaced. the mechanic that put the new one on, told me to buy them, for the alignment guy to put on. both agreed they would come off neat one more time, but the heads were just abused to much from the swap job to align the car.

901700122 and known to subaru as a "Bolt Cam" (I paid like $8 for the pair I needed ).




I know there is one junk yard up there in NH that brings unrusted subarus up from down south to cut up. and one of the things they sell is used 2000-2004 legacy / outback subframes.

However I bought new sub frames from subaru. (both came from subaru parts warehouse in CT, on one of their 30% off sales they have around May and October.). this so they have new rubber, and no rust.
1/2 inch impact made easy-ish work of the cradle bolts. Well, two that hold the left side trailing arm to the chassis - one rounded off the other is spinning in the chassis. I'll deal with those repairs when the time comes. Not bad considering what it could have been.

I'm leaning toward a new sub-frame from Subaru. Sand blast/paint my existing suspension arms. Of course, that goes out the window if the other support links - differential support etc, are rusty. Then I'll most likely go dismantler route. I've seen decent prices for complete sub-frames comparable to just the sub-frame price from Subaru.

Thanks for the tips....project continues
 
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