[cardoc]

First time for everything. This is where having proper information comes in.

Today the key got trapped in the lock cylinder on my car. It would not go to lock to remove the key. Never happened before. Never had it happen before on any Subaru.

Options: Shift interlock actuator, shift interlock module, keyless entry module, fuses, ignition lock cylinder or brake switch.

I was without any tools and didn't have time when it happened to start tearing into a lot of things and couldn't look up a wiring diagram since AllData updated their website and it doesn't work on iPhones any more. Subaru diagrams tend to be lax in areas anyway so I pulled the center console cover and unplugged the interlock solenoid to kill the current to the interlock module. NO. Key still won't release.

I don't have time to mess with it right then, so I was thinking at the time, I have to leave the key in the car and lock it up. So I did.

When I got to it, I pulled the diagram for the ignition interlock system. All fuses listed there were good. Pulling the plug on the intrerlock solenoid was a no go. The car would start (it does have a start inhibitor and I will explain that at the end) but would not let go of the key. The key fob would lock and unlock all the doors. I could change the Security settings back and forth. All the door locks work with the door switches. I was thinking, I really don't want to pull the column down with the limited tools I had in the car. So back to the laptop. I looked up the wiring diagram for the keyless entry. Fuses 3 and 6. 3 is inside the car for the door locks and keyless entry. Since the door locks worked with the switch and fob, I didn't need to check that one. Fuse 6 is 6 in the engine compartment box for the hazard and horn. Blown. From what, I don't know. I don't use the hazard lights. The horns have been working. Replaced the fuse 6, key comes out.

Now you would think the key lock would be controlled by the ignition lock module. Who would think the key lock would be controlled by the keyless entry module? Not me. I haven't ever had a key get trapped in the cylinder. I couldn't find anything on this forum relating to this.

Here it is now.

As for the start inhibitor: When I locked up the car, I used the door switch to lock the car since the key was in the ignition. I then pushed the lock button on the fob after shutting the door. When I got back to the car, I unlocked the door with another key. When the key in the cylinder was turned to start the car, nothing. The security light was flashing and all dash lights on. I pushed the unlock on the fob, the light went out and it started.

I haven't tried it again. I am not sure what the combination was exactly on setting the inhibitor, its not in the manual. Its been reported that these cars don't have starter inhibitors but I have seen in wiring diagrams that it must because the way the ignition circuit is routed to the starter. All I can tell you is that it was not in Valet and would not start until I pushed the unlock on the fob even after using a key to unlock the door and unlocking all doors with the door switch. So if your Outback has a security system from the factory, the inhibitor is there in the security module. When I find the right combination with the locks and fob again, I'll post it.

I certainly hope tomorrow and the rest of the week go trouble free. What a day this one has been.

.

 

[nipper]

Your missing something. You are looking at everything electrical, however, there is something mechanical in this equation.

Could it be possible that the car was not fully in park? If the cable is tired, when you thought you had it in park, it may not have been in park at the inhibitor (known to everyone else as the neutral saftey switch).

I dont know why you say they dont have inhibitor switches, they do.

 

[cardoc]

It was in Park. I thought of that first. That's why I unplugged the shift interlock solenoid first. To see if the contact in the solenoid was stuck and sending current back to the interlock module. Unplug it, open the circuit. It was the blown Fuse 6 in the under hood box that feeds batt to the keyless module to operate the key lock. It also allows the key warning to "ding". As soon as I put the fuse in, ding, ding, ding, ding. That's when I pulled the key.

Some time ago, there was argument of sorts that Subaru did not have starter kill in the security systems. I let it go after a couple post. It had to do with installing after market alarm/remote starts I believe. My experience has been that these systems when installed improperly can cause a no start due to interference with the inhibitor in the security module or damage to the security module. Posters were sure there was no such thing. Its there. I'm just not sure what the combination to setting it was.

 

[dianer]

I had the park thing happen to me but the symptoms were different. I could remove the key but it would not start. Took it out of park then put it back in and it started fine.

 

[cardoc]

I had the park thing happen to me but the symptoms were different. I could remove the key but it would not start. Took it out of park then put it back in and it started fine.

That's the two modules working separately. The keyless module controls the keyless functions and the key lock in the cylinder. The interlock module controls starting controls based on gear selection and the interlock solenoid at the gear shift.

Most times there is an issue with the interlock solenoid such as starting or not releasing from Park its due to dirt and debris making the solenoid stick in a closed circuit telling the module not to allow start or open circuit not allowing for a release of the lever. Cleaning the solenoid with WD-40 and moving it with the manual release generally frees it up.

If it happens again, try the WD-40.

 

[dianer]

Thanks I will do that. It is a pretty dirty car. When I think about it, this hasn't happened at all since the leak in the power steering was fixed.

The only security system problem I have had caused the head lights to flash on and off. I felt pretty silly driving around like that before I got it fixed. Yes, I know they're blinking...my battery died and I haven't figured out how to make them stop...I was working on it but had to pick my daughter up from school...yes they are blinking I know...

 

[nipper]

OK I misunderstood, as an inhibitor switch is what subaru calls the neutral saftey switch, You are talking about a starter kill circuit.

Depends upon the level of equipment in the car I think. My 2005 ltd doesnt have it but the next one up with the H6 does

 

[RedGeminiPA]

Cardoc,

You have an '01 VDC. Was the security package standard? If so, is there a way to test it? My security light never flashes, period. Could it be a bad bulb, or were they LED? Yes, I have a keyless remote for it.

Thanks!

 

[SE95]

Cardoc,

You have an '01 VDC. Was the security package standard? If so, is there a way to test it? My security light never flashes, period. Could it be a bad bulb, or were they LED? Yes, I have a keyless remote for it.

Thanks!

Do you have an aftermarket remote starter? Is your keyless entry OEM?

Quick test, lock the car/set the alarm with the remote. Then unlock the driver's door with the key (not the remote) and open the door. Does the alarm go off? If it doesn't, there is a good chance your security system has been disabled. This is the case with my Outback, as I have an aftermarket remote starter installed.

 

[RedGeminiPA]

Do you have an aftermarket remote starter? Is your keyless entry OEM?

Quick test, lock the car/set the alarm with the remote. Then unlock the driver's door with the key (not the remote) and open the door. Does the alarm go off? If it doesn't, there is a good chance your security system has been disabled. This is the case with my Outback, as I have an aftermarket remote starter installed.

No to remote start. Yes to OEM keyless entry.

 

[cardoc]

If you open the driver door, push the lock button twice, the security light should flash indicating valet.

It will go out when its started while in valet.

Its there to indicate the system is active as a deterent.

Turning off the valet is the same as setting it.

Arming the car is just shut the doors and hit the lock button. If someone tries to open the door, the security light will flash. You can set it to sound the horns also, either with setting or entry, but I don't have the manual handy to look it up. I have my horns off because those Hellas are loud. It only honks if the system is set and a door is open or if a door is opened after setting.

 

[RedGeminiPA]

Tried that. Still not lighting up Security, and the lights don't flash, either.

I'm looking through the owner's manual now. The one I have is for an '02, though. Would that make a difference?

It almost seems like A) it's stuck in valet mode, or B) mine doesn't have it...

 

[cardoc]

I think all the VDC models had it. It could be the bulb is out. Does the horn sound if you lock the doors with one open?

 

[cardoc]

Okay, I'm not doing anything right now, so here you go.

Check fuse 2 & 7 in main fuse box. You can also check it by shutting the doors and then lock with the fob and hit the car. The horns should sound.

Here's how it works:

Security System

FEATURES


•The security system protects the vehicle from a theft action (unauthorized entry into the vehicle). Upon detection of such an action, it gives audible and visible alarms by causing the horn to sound and the parking lights to flash. It also immobilizes the vehicle by disabling the starter circuit.
•Unauthorized entry is monitored through the switches on the doors, rear gate and trunk lid. If one of the switches is turned ON, the system interprets it as an attempt of unauthorized entry and gives alarms while disabling the starter circuit.
•Unauthorized entry is also monitored by the impact sensor. The system operates in the same manner as mentioned above whenever the sensor senses an abnormal impact on the vehicle.


1.ALARMS

•When activated, the security system causes the parking lights to flash and the horn to sound intermittently. In addition, the security indicator light on combination meter flashes fast and the starter motor circuit is disabled.
•The alarms automatically turn OFF after 30 seconds . However, they will be reactivated if the vehicle is tampered with again.
•The alarms are activated when a door, rear gate or trunk lid is opened without using the keyless entry transmitter. (When the system is armed, the alarms will be triggered even if a door is opened by releasing the inside door handle or the trunk lid is opened by operating the trunk lid release lever.)
•They are also activated when an impact on vehicle body is sensed.

2.HOW TO ARM THE SYSTEM

1.Remove the key from the ignition switch.
2.Make sure that the trunk lid is closed.
3.Close all the windows. Close and lock all the doors and rear gate.
4.Push the transmitter's LOCK button.
5.The horn will chirp once and the parking lights will flash once.

NOTE: The system can be armed even if the windows are open.


6.Confirm that the security indicator light blinks slowly (once every two seconds ). If any of the doors, rear gate or trunk lid is not properly closed, the system warns the driver of this by causing the horn to chirp three times, the parking lights to flash three times, and the security indicator to flash rapidly. When the door, rear gate or trunk lid is closed, it will be automatically locked and the security system starts working. The indicator light blinks every two seconds when the system is armed and continues to blink until the system is disarmed.

3.HOW TO DISARM THE SYSTEM

1.Push keyless entry transmitter's UNLOCK button.
2.The horn will chirp twice and the parking lights flash twice.
3.The security indicator light turns OFF.
4.The interior light will illuminate for 30 seconds and then turns OFF. (However, if the key is inserted into the ignition switch or a system arming procedure is performed during this period, the interior light will turn OFF)
4.HOW TO STOP ALARMS Push the transmitter's UNLOCK button or turn the ignition switch from "LOCK" to "ON" repeatedly three times at an interval shorter than five seconds .

 

[RedGeminiPA]

I think all the VDC models had it. It could be the bulb is out. Does the horn sound if you lock the doors with one open?

Yes.

Doors closed: lock button sounds horn 1 chirp, unlocking 2 chirps

If a door is open, pressing the lock button chirps the horn 3 times, then one more when the last door is close.

I just locked them with the remote. I'll go out in a few minutes to see if the light is flashing, and I'll unlock it with the key to see if it sets off the alarm.

No parking lights flash when locking or unlocking.

 

[RedGeminiPA]

Fuses 2 and 7 are good... They are the ones behind the cubby on the left of the steering wheel, right?

 

[RedGeminiPA]

I can't find any fuses in the manual labeled for Security system.

According to this '02 manual:
Cubby/Coin holder block: 2 is Heater Fan, and 7 is front fog light
Under hood: 2 is Radiator cooling fan (Sub), 7 is Meter - SRS airbag system warning light

 

[RedGeminiPA]

Yahoo autos is listing 2 different security system options for the '01 VDC...

Options - 2001 Subaru Outback H-6 3.0 VDC - Yahoo! Autos

 

[cardoc]

The main box under the hood holds the security fuses. As I posted above, my key was locked in the cylinder due to a blown #6, horn/hazard.

I've attached the diagram for the security system. The diagram also shows fuse 5 with 2 and 7 providing battery.

Fuse 2 provides batt to the horn relay as well as the light on the cluster. So that one is good since the horns sound with security changes. May just have a blown bulb.

Did you try the shock test to see if the alarm sounds? According to the information on the security module, it has an adjustment on it for shock level. The module is behind the center console by the stereo/storage compartment.

 

[nipper]

Now you all are going to make me read my owners manual