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Discussion Starter #1
I don't like the look of the factory DRL's, I think they are too yellow next to the stock projectors.

Anyone install LED bulbs on these? I am talking about the lights below that illuminate when shifting out of park with the headlights off.

If so what brand/type/model did you install and how are the working???
 

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2012,OB 3.6R Limited/Moonroof Pkg.
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I like the looks of these. I read somewhere else though that the DRLs are the high beams, but on low power. Not sure if that's true or not - didn't dig into that thread further. The availability of these makes me assume that the DRLs are actually separate from the high beams. Can someone confirm which?:confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I like the looks of these. I read somewhere else though that the DRLs are the high beams, but on low power. Not sure if that's true or not - didn't dig into that thread further. The availability of these makes me assume that the DRLs are actually separate from the high beams. Can someone confirm which?:confused:
Not true in the US market. The DRL's are a small bulb that is inside the high beam housing. See the photo I posted above, there's a red arrow pointing to the DRL light bulbs. The highbeam bulb (H7) is clearly visible in the middle of the DRL housing, but is not used for the DRLs.
 

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Discussion Starter #5

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The bulbs that the arrow points to are not the DRLs. They are simply there to provide some sort of light in case a headlight goes out (that's the most logical explanation I've read).

The 9005/HB3 high beams do double duty as DRLs. I measured the voltage and if I remember correctly they measure roughly 8V as DRLs and the full 12V (13.xx) in high beam mode.

I have LEDs in the small spot (168 type bulb).
5K WHITE 3 CHIP 5 LED LIGHT BULBS 194 168 158 2821 | 1 PAIR

I have tried some cheap 9005/HB3 LEDs before. They were the 120 LED kind from eBay. They had a nice color and were fairly bright for DRLs, but over a couple months, some of the little LEDs started to literally fall off! There was some discoloration too on their circuit board too that looks like it's from overheating. I would trust V-leds over the cheap stuff. For now, I'm back to the stock bulbs as DRLs.

If you switch to LEDs for the 9005/HB3 bulbs the high beams will basically suck at putting out any light. So you have to pick your poison - pretty DRLs or functional high beams.

I'm waiting for Triton V3 bulbs in the 9005/HB3 size. I think those would be killer. I have the V3s for my brake lights and they are bright! They are pricey too.
V3 TRITON RED MULTI-APPLICATION HIGH POWER LED BRAKE LIGHT SYSTEM 7440 7443 1156 1157 3156 3157 | 1 PAIR - V3 Triton

I have these as turn signals (amber up front and red in the rear). I got them when they used to be $80. Fortunatley they are $30 now as they have brighter ones available now:
AMBER PLATINUM 7W HIGH POWER 20 LED PARKING/TURN SIGNAL BULBS 7443 7440 | 1 PAIR


Other things to note:
I have changed my flasher relay (in the dashboard) to accomodate LED turn signals. This is much better than using resistors.

There is a product that v-leds sells that will up your DRL voltage to 12V in case you want the most from your LEDs (should you choose to go that route).

I'm not affiliated with V-leds in any way. They just have the best retrofit LEDs available that I know of. They rest of the places are a step down as far as I can see.

At this stage of the game as far as technology goes, you can't go cheap on LEDs and expect great results. You have to be somewhat of a guinea pig and pay high prices for the good stuff. They do get cheaper as time goes on though...
 

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Nickshu, rockthebeef is correct the one you pointed out is not a DRL's they are parking lights, and yes they are on when your headlights are on.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Huh, I could have sworn it was that little bulb, but still it looks yellow when lit up with the headlights so I'd like to swap for LEDs.

I guess HIDs would not work on the high beams with the low/high functions...would probably need a shutter to produce that.
 

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Huh, I could have sworn it was that little bulb, but still it looks yellow when lit up with the headlights so I'd like to swap for LEDs.

I guess HIDs would not work on the high beams with the low/high functions...would probably need a shutter to produce that.
Yup, it's best to match those little bulbs with your headlights since they're on when the headlights are on. FWIW the 5K LEDs I use look accurate as far as color temperature is concerned. I have a DDM 4500K HID kit that is more blue than their ratings suggest. To remedy that I have a set of new 4300K bulbs sitting in the garage, but you know how much of a pain it is to install headlights in these cars... I have to wait for a good chunk of time to do the swap. Hopefully they match the LEDs better.

It is not recommended to use HIDs as DRLs for the reason you stated. I've also tried some of those blue tinted 9005/HB3 bulbs for DRLs/high beam. They made the DRLs a little whiter, but they're less bright overall since the blue tint filters out yellow light. Additionally the blue tint reflects inside the housing when they're off and I don't care for the aesthetics of that. It makes the front end look too "law enforcement vehicle". I've sort of given up for the time being. Back to stock DRLs...
 

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I have what you're looking for. Here's what I did in an older thread when I first got my 2013.

Here are the LEDs!
Here's what I'll say about the leds I got from superbrightleds: They're very, very bright. The 194 bulbs used in the headlamps, license plate lights, and under the doors are a very pure white. HOWEVER, the interior festoon bulbs and rectangular board (for cargo area) that I got are "warm white" because "natural white"(<-- 194 bulbs) wasn't offered for some reason. So these LEDs look VERY close to the stock bulbs in color. That said, they are far brighter and I am pleased with my interior.

Here's a list of the LEDs I bought from superbrightleds. The first two are the same, I don't know why it isn't just listed as 6 WLED-xHP5, but you get the idea. They're available in various colors, but I do like the natural white a lot.
---------- PRODUCT INFORMATION ----------
Qty | Product / Options | Price/ea |
============================================================
4 | WLED-xHP5: 194 LED Bulb - 5 SMD LED Wide Angle Wedge Base| $ 5.95 |
WLED-WHP5: Natural White
------------------------------------------------------------
2 | WLED-xHP5: 194 LED Bulb - 5 SMD LED Wide Angle Wedge Base| $ 5.95 |
WLED-WHP5: Natural White
------------------------------------------------------------
2 | 3022-xHP4: DE3175 LED Bulb - 4 SMD LED Festoon| $ 6.95 |
3022-WWHP4: Warm White
------------------------------------------------------------
1 | 3022-xHP4: DE3175 LED Bulb - 4 SMD LED Festoon| $ 6.95 |
3022-WWHP4: Warm White
------------------------------------------------------------
1 | UPCB-xWHP30-T10: 30 High Power LED Rectangle PCB Lamp w/ Wedge Base| $ 17.90 |
UPCB-WWHP30-T10: Warm White T10 Base
------------------------------------------------------------
Stock

"Natural white" LED

Comparo

Color matches the 55w 4500k HIDs almost too perfectly

This one shows how well they light up the housing


Even the "natural white" is a bit warmer than the stock puddle lights. But still much better.

Black interior isn't exactly ideal for showing off brightness, but it's still a helluva lot brighter than stock. You can also see the "warm white" doesn't look as you might expect a traditional LED to appear. I'm fine with that, but some might want it to look more white.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
What about yellow bulbs for the H7 DRLs? If you can find them. Might look cool. Downside would be. Yellow highbeams.
 

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The bulbs that the arrow points to are not the DRLs. They are simply there to provide some sort of light in case a headlight goes out (that's the most logical explanation I've read).

The 9005/HB3 high beams do double duty as DRLs. I measured the voltage and if I remember correctly they measure roughly 8V as DRLs and the full 12V (13.xx) in high beam mode.

I have LEDs in the small spot (168 type bulb).
5K WHITE 3 CHIP 5 LED LIGHT BULBS 194 168 158 2821 | 1 PAIR

I have tried some cheap 9005/HB3 LEDs before. They were the 120 LED kind from eBay. They had a nice color and were fairly bright for DRLs, but over a couple months, some of the little LEDs started to literally fall off! There was some discoloration too on their circuit board too that looks like it's from overheating. I would trust V-leds over the cheap stuff. For now, I'm back to the stock bulbs as DRLs.

If you switch to LEDs for the 9005/HB3 bulbs the high beams will basically suck at putting out any light. So you have to pick your poison - pretty DRLs or functional high beams.

I'm waiting for Triton V3 bulbs in the 9005/HB3 size. I think those would be killer. I have the V3s for my brake lights and they are bright! They are pricey too.
V3 TRITON RED MULTI-APPLICATION HIGH POWER LED BRAKE LIGHT SYSTEM 7440 7443 1156 1157 3156 3157 | 1 PAIR - V3 Triton

I have these as turn signals (amber up front and red in the rear). I got them when they used to be $80. Fortunatley they are $30 now as they have brighter ones available now:
AMBER PLATINUM 7W HIGH POWER 20 LED PARKING/TURN SIGNAL BULBS 7443 7440 | 1 PAIR


Other things to note:
I have changed my flasher relay (in the dashboard) to accomodate LED turn signals. This is much better than using resistors.

There is a product that v-leds sells that will up your DRL voltage to 12V in case you want the most from your LEDs (should you choose to go that route).

I'm not affiliated with V-leds in any way. They just have the best retrofit LEDs available that I know of. They rest of the places are a step down as far as I can see.

At this stage of the game as far as technology goes, you can't go cheap on LEDs and expect great results. You have to be somewhat of a guinea pig and pay high prices for the good stuff. They do get cheaper as time goes on though...
http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/104-gen-4-2010-present/20516-how-disable-drl-2010-outback-8.html check out post # 73 picture of DRL resistor next to windshield washer reservoir, when drl is activated it goes through the resistor to the highbeam bulb, as Rockthebeef stated the voltage is brought down to 8volts dimming the output of the highbeams.
I havent looked at the wiring harness yet but I thought about running the drl resistor line w/o the resistor and running it to that bulb that sits next to the high beam bulb, i think they call it the position light, not sure whats it supposed to do. That would be my DRL and probably save some hour usage on the highbeam bulbs. Any thoughts? criticisms?
 

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http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/104-gen-4-2010-present/20516-how-disable-drl-2010-outback-8.html check out post # 73 picture of DRL resistor next to windshield washer reservoir, when drl is activated it goes through the resistor to the highbeam bulb, as Rockthebeef stated the voltage is brought down to 8volts dimming the output of the highbeams.
I havent looked at the wiring harness yet but I thought about running the drl resistor line w/o the resistor and running it to that bulb that sits next to the high beam bulb, i think they call it the position light, not sure whats it supposed to do. That would be my DRL and probably save some hour usage on the highbeam bulbs. Any thoughts? criticisms?
It would be all well and good if you make it all work but the only thing I have to say is that it won't be very visible. That tiny light shines OK at night, but they will be next to useless as DRLs. Those little LEDs (most of which are less bright than the regular bulbs) will easily get washed out in sunlight.

My personal choice would be to run H11 LEDs in the fog lights and to wire them as the DRLs. That way you still have high beams, but you lose fog lights that will give off much light. It's on my list but I'm in no hurry.
 

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What about yellow bulbs for the H7 DRLs? If you can find them. Might look cool. Downside would be. Yellow highbeams.
I kept making the mistake of calling them H7s (I corrected my posts). The DRLs are 9005 bulbs.

Yellow bulbs would be pretty cool IMO. You'd just have to make sure it's legal in your state. If you live in a place with inspections, they might consider them to be fog lights and that you have no high beams.
 

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for all those LED bulbs, do you just have to switch the bulbs or do you have to add other stuff?
They're all plug and play. The exception is that for turn signals, you're going to have to do something to avoid hyper blinking. I replaced my flasher to do this.

Those expensive V3 LEDs are a little more complicated than plug n play, but they are extremely bright! ...and worth the cost. They come as a kit with everything you need to get them installed.
 

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Does anyone know if the license plate lights interfere with the back-up camera?
 

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would the hyperblinking be bad? i pulled a wrong fuse in my '08 evo and the fast blinkers seemed a little louder, i assume almost all new cars have those really quiet turn signals and i dont like that. id rather have the hyperblinking or whatever, if it makes me look like a teenager, whatever.
 
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