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· Registered
2002 Subaru Outback H6 3.0L Sedan EZ30Dead - 305K Miles
144 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The left passenger window is not working. I have tried unlocking, using driver buttons, and that passenger window button. It does not make a sound. It does not work.
All other power windows work flawlessly.

The button for that passenger window seems broken in some way, you pull it up and it feels like it clicks too loud and pulls up too high. Could that button be shorting out the window operation coming from the driver passenger button?

If this is the case, I could try repairing or replacing that button.

Otherwise, I can't find any fuse listed in the owners manual for the power windows period.

I have tried switching between child safety lock on/off, still no luck.


P.S. The window is rolled all the way up

· Registered
20,315 Posts
If the other windows work, then it's not a problem with a fuse; all the windows work from the same power source.

The switches for the three doors (other than the driver's) are linked -- in other words, for the left rear window, both the switch at the left rear door and at the driver's master switch are involved. So there could be a problem in the driver's master switch for the LR, or the switch in the LR door.

To illustrate, I've attached a copy of the LR door system wiring diagram showing the power flow (red lines) from the 12 V source when the LR door switch is set for "up". The power goes from the source (upper left), through the LR door switch, through the motor, back up to the LR switch, then across to the driver's master LR switch, through that switch in it's "off" position, and to ground. The same type of routing will occur if the LR door switch is set for "down" (but through different contacts) or if the driver's master LR switch is set for "up" or "down".

Or, the motor itself might have failed.

There are cases where the switches develop bad contacts and this could be the problem here. Or, as you suggested, if the LR door switch is damaged, and not making any contact internally, it won't work in either up or down, and neither will the driver's LR switch.

To narrow it down, I think you might have to access the LR door switch and motor (means removing the interior door trim panel). If you can get to the connector going to the motor, and with the door switch still connected to the harness, check for voltage at the motor connector when either switch is moved to the "down" position. If there's no power, work backwards. Check for 12 V at pin 5 of connector D25 (at the LR door switch), and for 12 V at pin 1 and pin 2 when the switch is in the up and down positions. Similarly, at the LR door switch, when both switches (door and driver's) are in the off position, there should be continuity to ground from connector D25 pins 2 and 6 (through the driver's switch). Step-by-step measurements such as these will eventually identify where there's power and where there isn't, and that will isolate the defect.

For a quick check of the motor itself, which can be done as soon as the connector to the motor is accessed, measure the resistance between the two pins of the connector going into the motor. There should be a low resistance, probably less than 15 Ohms.

Hope this helps. Let us know how thing go . . .


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