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2009 OB 2.5i 4EAT
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298 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

So I've got an oil leak/seep somewhere near the front of the block, by the oil pan, filter, and timing belt cover. I've included some photos but the whole area is congested and it's hard to tell where the leak is coming from. The timing belt and head gaskets were done around 100K miles, however no other gaskets were done at that time ( in other words, aside from the stuff relevant to that exact job, no other preventative maintenance was done). Could it be from the oil pump or oil pan? I've attached 3 pictures to help provide an idea of the leaking.


Also, looking for a second opinion on this... Looks like I have some seeping from the my front diff on the driver side. I've checked the level a few times, it looks like it's a very slow seep because I'm not seeing any significant changes in the level, it's staying within tolerance. Do I leave it until it becomes problematic? Picture attached.
 

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Master Caster
2005 XT, Mildly Modified...2006 XT Limited, Highly Modifed
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16,119 Posts
I believe there is an o-ring gasket for the oil pump, That is inside the time case/cover, in the center. However, if you pop the driver-side timing cover and see if there is oil inside the timing case. If the cams and crank seals were not changed, it's possible they are leaking also.

You had the HG and belt done at 100K miles. Usually those seals are fine, however ... if you were overheating prior to that, they may have gotten baked. Something the shop should have considered.

If it were me, I would want to know if there is oil anywhere near my timing belt.
 

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2009 OB 2.5i 4EAT
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Discussion Starter #3
I believe there is an o-ring gasket for the oil pump, That is inside the time case/cover, in the center. However, if you pop the driver-side timing cover and see if there is oil inside the timing case. If the cams and crank seals were not changed, it's possible they are leaking also.

You had the HG and belt done at 100K miles. Usually those seals are fine, however ... if you were overheating prior to that, they may have gotten baked. Something the shop should have considered.

If it were me, I would want to know if there is oil anywhere near my timing belt.
Previous owner had work done at a Subaru dealer, in surprised they weren't more thorough and changed other seals while in there.

Good point though, I should really check the timing belt. Should I be able to remove the covers and inspect without having to pull radiator?
 

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2005 OBXT Limited, VF37, STI intake, 5MT
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1,553 Posts
I would inspect behind the alternator and power steering pump to make sure it's not leaking from above the dripping down.

If not, possible a crank seal leaking. You can pop the inspection plug on the passenger side and the driver's side cover (for SOHC) or both side covers for the DOHC.
 

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Just wondering . . . Is there any oil higher up, on top of the head or block? The oil pressure sensor switch could be leaking (not uncommon) and perhaps the oil is seeping down the front and showing up at the bottom.
 

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Master Caster
2005 XT, Mildly Modified...2006 XT Limited, Highly Modifed
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16,119 Posts
Should I be able to remove the covers and inspect without having to pull radiator?
The left and right inspection covers come off easily, No fan or radiator removal.
 

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2005 OBXT Limited, VF37, STI intake, 5MT
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The left and right inspection covers come off easily, No fan or radiator removal.
His looks like an NA car (from the picture with the exhaust in it), the passenger side cover cannot be removed without pulling the balancer. There is a small (usually difficult to remove) inspection plug, however. It doesn't reveal much without an inspection camera...
 

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Master Caster
2005 XT, Mildly Modified...2006 XT Limited, Highly Modifed
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16,119 Posts
His looks like an NA car (from the picture with the exhaust in it), the passenger side cover cannot be removed without pulling the balancer. There is a small (usually difficult to remove) inspection plug, however. It doesn't reveal much without an inspection camera...
Can't the bolts be removed and the cover "widget-ed" open enough to see in at least to the cam seals? Mirror, scope ..etc?
 

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2005 OBXT Limited, VF37, STI intake, 5MT
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Can't the bolts be removed and the cover "widget-ed" open enough to see in at least to the cam seals? Mirror, scope ..etc?
You can but there are 6.2 million bolts and two? are REALLY hard to access without pulling the balancer and/or alternator.

The cover is pretty stiff, and with age, is likely to crack. Either way, if the leak isn't coming from above, the timing cover/timing system is coming off to fix/find the leak.
 

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2009 OB 2.5i 4EAT
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298 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
His looks like an NA car (from the picture with the exhaust in it), the passenger side cover cannot be removed without pulling the balancer. There is a small (usually difficult to remove) inspection plug, however. It doesn't reveal much without an inspection camera...
Correcto. Just checked the FSM and it agrees. I don't think autozone would have the tool ST 499977400 CRANK PULLEY WRENCH, so hopefully I can wiggle it around like traildog suggested.

There was some PS fluid from the pump but that should all be gone by now (spill over mostly), and it definitely looks like motor oil. I'll take a closer inspection by the alternator, but I've checked around there recently and didn't see any oil from the top of the motor, that side (driver side) looks clean.
 

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Master Caster
2005 XT, Mildly Modified...2006 XT Limited, Highly Modifed
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You can but there are 6.2 million bolts and two? are REALLY hard to access without pulling the balancer and/or alternator.
Got it.

It's been a long time since I worked on a NA for motor work. I think I can take a 2.5T apart with my eyes shut.
 

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2008 Outback 2.5
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Correcto. Just checked the FSM and it agrees. I don't think autozone would have the tool ST 499977400 CRANK PULLEY WRENCH, so hopefully I can wiggle it around like traildog suggested.

There was some PS fluid from the pump but that should all be gone by now (spill over mostly), and it definitely looks like motor oil. I'll take a closer inspection by the alternator, but I've checked around there recently and didn't see any oil from the top of the motor, that side (driver side) looks clean.
You can pull the harmonic balancer without that tool. If you have a sacrificial drive belt, you can do this:



I was replacing the drive belts anyway and it works well in the opposite direction when you need to torque the bolt back in.



Once I removed the bolt, the harmonic balancer slid out without any force. No need for a pulley removal tool or anything like that.

You could also prop the breaker bar against the engine compartment and bump the engine with the starter. However, this method won't work when trying to tighten the bolt afterwards. I removed the alternator and radiator with the fans attached, that took an additional 20 minutes and you can save the coolant if you want.
 

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2006 Outback 2.5i Auto
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415 Posts
The other method that works on an auto car is to jam a big screwdriver in the clutch plate (I think that's the right term) through the hole in the top of the transmission bell housing.

Look at any of the discussions/how-tos on timing belt changes for that.

If it's a manual, then just put it in 5th gear and chock the wheels.

EDIT: Also, it's not that hard to make up the appropriate tool from wood. I think there are the required dimensions around here somewhere.
 
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