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Lift Kit Thread #2384-D

Gen 6 
10K views 20 replies 10 participants last post by  SilverOnyx 
#1 ·
I want to install a 2” lift kit on my 2021 Onyx XT, main reason is for looks and some added clearance for when we go off the main road onto trail heads.

I want to keep the same ride comfort don’t want to stiffen or soften the on road ride too much.

What is a good kit? I am budgeting about 1K or so to include installation, do I need to go up or am I in the ball[ark? Don’t need a Baja 1000 ready nor do I want a $99 special.
Thanks
 
#2 ·
I want to install a 2” lift kit on my 2021 Onyx XT, main reason is for looks and some added clearance for when we go off the main road onto trail heads.

I want to keep the same ride comfort don’t want to stiffen or soften the on road ride too much.

What is a good kit? I am budgeting about 1K or so to include installation, do I need to go up or am I in the ball[ark? Don’t need a Baja 1000 ready nor do I want a $99 special.
Thanks
subieliftoz is the best kit on the market ... speak to matt chaplin
 
#6 ·
Following... I just posted a very similar question yesterday. I'm going to be lifting my 21 Onyx also. Up until yesterday, I had my heart set on the LP Adventure kit. Then, I spoke with the guy from the shop that will like do the installation for me and he was really talking up the ReadyLift kit. So now, I'm all confused.

They both look like great kits and I know I'm being a brat, but I see the ReadyLift is 2" in front and 1.5" in back while the LP Adventure is 2" all around. Is that 1/2" in back really worth the extra $500? Probably not, but I know I'll probably looking at it later on thinking "Shoulda, coulda, woulda." I really can't decide.
 
#7 ·
Either way don't forget that you need to get a wheel alignment after the lift kit is installed - not sure if your quotes include that procedure.

Consider why you're getting the lift kit and what you're expecting from it. Is it purely cosmetic?

This article is worth reviewing for newbies - yes there is a place for armor and lifts but it's not a no-brainer:


Also, contrary to the instagram mindset, wide tires are not better for most off-road and bad weather situations.
 
#8 ·
Now am back to step one! We do like the looks of the Falken A/T trails, but then back to the lift kit, it will be 75% looks and the rest in practicality!

Maybe I should just say What the F, get both , worked hard for the $$$$ don't want to leave it to the kids and grandkids, they prob just waste it might as well save them some time,,,,,,,,,,,,
 
#9 ·
The Cobb 1.5" lift looks like better quality than others though I don't recall anyone trying it.



 
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#10 ·
Just posted on another thread:

For what it worth.. my mechanic talked me out of lifting outback unless it's absolutely necessary. He said lift changes angle of axels and that would lead to premature wear on them (or something like that) also heavier wheel/tire combo will destroy wheel bearings. He said if you want go extreme offroading and ready to service/replace drivetrain parts much sooner than on stock car - go for it, if it just for the looks - don't. Even if it looks sick AF

So now I am don't know what to do, really like the look of lifted outback, but do I want to compromise geometry in one way or another and get ready to spend money on repairs sooner rather than later... not sure.
Was thinking to go with Primitive Racing lift kit
 
#11 ·
Lifting an outback will give you little to no more advantage over a stock height one, the costs of the kit, install, and increased wear on the driveline parts is not worth it. If you want an off road play toy you should have gotten a truck or a jeep. A lot of people like to kid themselves and think the outback can hang with a built truck or jeep off road but the honest truth is, they wont. It sounds like for your application it's strictly for looks. Honestly, I would just do a wheel/tire package and get the Falkens and keep it at a factory ride height.
 
#12 ·
I had a 1.5" lift from Rallitek installed late last week. I mostly got the lift because of aesthetics. I went with 1.5" instead of 2" because it gives me the look while also being conservative about problems that can be created by a lift. I also didn't want the extreme look that I think the 2" lift can sometimes have. I honestly might have been happier with a 1" lift.

I went with Rallitek because of price. Of the kind of lift I wanted (subframe spacer with alignment correction and rear subframe drop to keep the rear wheel centered in the arch) the products all seemed the same and build quality didn't seem that relevant. Rallitek was good on price and are local to me (as are two other popular companies).

If you're looking to "keep the same ride comfort don’t want to stiffen or soften the on road ride too much" you don't want a spring lift (like Primitive). Any lift will either increase body roll (because the center of gravity has been raised) or will stiffen the ride to prevent body roll from the raised COG. The Primitive lift which (at least partly) uses springs to lift the car will stiffen the ride in an attempt to reduce body roll.

The Cobb lift that SilverOnyx mentions does look really nice but it looks like it doesn't address rear subframe spacing. From their site "A 1.5" lift was chosen as it does not require adding spacers to the rear multi-link arms." While a 1.5" lift may not "require" spacers on the rear multi-link arms there are companies that offer it while also offering solutions without it. I believe the those spacers are necessary to keep the rear wheel centered in the wheel arch. Also, other companies 'economy' lifts look about as nice as the Cobb kit. It's the non-economy stuff that has some components (the strut top spacer) that doens't look as nice (they aren't machined) but they're functional and hidden from view when installed.
 
#13 ·
I started writing this up as my original reply, but it didn't answer your question, thought I'd post anyway since I'd already written it up. I'll likely update with corrections as they get sent to me.

There are a few kinds of lifts for Subarus.
None of these increase the space between the wheel and suspension components. Decreasing wheel offset is what is needed to move the tire away from the suspension assembly.

Strut top spacer with rear subframe adjustment
  • Rallitek, LP Aventure, and ADF have examples of this (at least for 2020+ models)
  • This adds hardware on top of the spring/strut assembly raising the body to sit higher above suspension components
  • This also includes hardware to drop the rear subframe to keep wheel centered in wheel arch and reducing angles of suspension change in the rear
  • This affects handling because center of gravity has been raised
Strut top spacer without rear subframe adjustment ('economy')
  • Rallitek and ADF have examples of this (at least for 2020+ models)
  • This adds hardware on top of the spring/strut assembly raising the body to sit higher above suspension components
  • This affects handling because center of gravity has been raised
  • This solution does NOT keep the rear wheel centered in the wheel arch
Springs
  • Primitive Racing is an example of this (at least for 2020+ models)
  • This extends the strut meaning the suspension is always riding around partly extended giving less capability to deal with drops in the road
  • This affects handling because center of gravity has been raised
  • This will also affect handling because the spring rate will have changed
  • This can help compensate for extra weight in the rear of the vehicle (roof top tent, cook/drawer system in the rear). 'Stronger' stock height springs could also be added to other solutions for this same effect.
 
#14 ·
Question and request for assistance from those that are knowledgeable than I am with Lifts and offsets.

I have a 22 Touring XT and I am planning to do a 1.5" or 2" spacer lift in the near future. I think I am going with Rallitek, as they have all parts I need, and I purchased the rear sway bar end links already (which are included in the Cobb kit, but don't need them). The Rallitek seems the best price, includes all components I would need and seems to be well reviewed. . I do plan to have the rear subframe adjustment either way I go on the 1.5 or 2" spacer lift, and down the road I intend to upgrade to a coil over lift when my stock suspension starts going bad (I'm hoping this is around 100k miles at least. I have on order Konig 17 by 8 Hypergrams with +45 offset, but they also have +35 offset wheels (went with +45 to be closer to stock and the +35 offset is slightly heavier). I am planning to initially go with 235/65R17 tires, but when I do the coil over suspension upgrade, I plan to go with 235/70R17s. I've been reading that the manufacturers recommend at least a +38 offset with these lifts with the higher setup wheel and tire heights and I'm not sure if I should go with +35 offset now, or if the +45 offset will be sufficient now and in the future. I do not want to add wheel spacers.

For general information I also heavily looked at the Flatout GR Lite, but think it's overkill for what I am doing with the car, both price and features. It might be something I do in the future if I catch a good deal and will store until my stock system needs to be replaced. For those interested in use of car, I will be going to the beach and using it as a daily driver. There are sometimes slight floods in my area, but no heavy offroading or trail riding. I don't think the skid plates are a good application for me, as it will just cause me to have sand and salt water get to areas that are difficult to wash away, and again, no rocks, just sandy beaches and roads.

If more information is required, please let me know.

I appreciate any assistance in advance - PATY!
 
#15 ·
I remember one guy put 245/65-17 or 245/60-18 (can't remember which) on his stock 55 offset wheels but used a 20mm spacer and it rubbed (not lifted). Took the spacer off and no rub. While I'm not sure what offset will give you maximum clearance, 35mm might rub more than 45.
 
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#16 ·
I appreciate the response. I emailed Rallitek and hope to get an answer on Monday from them as well. I also called Discount Tire and talked to their wheel specialist, and he couldn't imagine there would be an issue, since the difference is so small. Down the road I guess I might have to trim to do some fitment issues, but I'd honestly rather stay with the +45mm offset than the +35mm. They are almost a full pound lighter and I'm really trying to keep that number down as far as I can. I found a good tire & wheel combo for both setups, and I get a weight savings with both. I am going to just do a 1.5" spacer lift for now from Rallitek - they have a good sale right now on the old version that just needs a 2" hole drilled into it on the 1.5" and I added the subframe drop spacer kit as well. Right now I'm debating if I should add the Rallitek adjustable front endlinks or not. I have the rear endlinks and sway bar, as well as the front sway bar, so while everything is being installed, I figured I might do that too. I can't believe how much I'm about to do on a new car... SMH.... I can't leave well enough alone though...
 
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