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Lifting a 2005 Outback Xt

45K views 55 replies 10 participants last post by  jasonojordan 
#1 ·
So figured I would just throw up a thread since I am sure many of you have done this and have information to contribute. Once I get rolling on the process I will update with some pictures and what not.

What I have:

2005 Outback. 105k miles. AT. I bought it a year ago lowered on KYB G2 Legecy struts and lowering springs. The struts are shot and I am not in love with how the car currently looks lowered or how it somewhat hurts the function of the car as it is ment to be. That said I plan to remove the struts and springs and swap back in Outback struts and King Raising springs. I currently plan to go with the King springs that add 3/4" in the front 1" in the back plus the .5" spacer for the rear.

That said has anyone done this that feels like chiming in on the topic? I will be going though some of the threads here during the winter in prep for doing this come spring when the outback has to no longer be my DD.

Thanks all for your help and looking forward to getting to know some of you.

Jason
 
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#2 ·
thought about moving this to the gen3 section, but then


might be better on the outback unpaved section, depending upon how high you go or what you want to do with it.

basically to make it so things don't wear too fast, going 2" over regular outback height is as high as anyone should go. (without something that will eat axles etc).

people here seem to like ADF style lifts.
 
#4 ·
If you are going to lift it. you really need the Megan Racing or WhiteLine (4) link set. To replace the stock rear lateral link that are sub-standard anyway. And they will be too shortand too stressesed.

IMPO...

You may also want a set of these.....

https://www.ebay.com/itm/173012096268?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649


https://www.ebay.com/itm/173012094816?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649

Or Even ...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/173070678490?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649

https://www.ebay.com/itm/173070683082?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649

I'm such a sl*t....Have to shine that shingle for the cause....

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...69065-gofundme-memorial-help.html#post5341490

That's a lot of links, I tired.
 
#9 ·
#6 ·
Got a 4 inch ADF on an 05 with 215/70/16 BFG's Axels are not at an angle that would cause excessive wear. No shimmy, no grinding. Ran a 97 with a six inch lift for 140K with the same axels. yeah, should have replaced them due to milage but they were still rolling along when I sold the car at 243K
 
#8 ·
So just a little update.

I have ordered the King springs and the 1.5" lift kit with the adjustable rear bushings.
I also have lined up some sparco wheels with BFG tires 215 65 16 tires.

Lift kit will be here in about a week and will be installing it weekend of the 9/10/11. At this point I do not plan to replace the rear lat arms. If it ends up becoming an issue and when the wife removes her foot from my balls for spending as much as I have already I may pick them up and install them and have the alignment redone.
 
#11 ·
Yea I am pretty excited. I have a hammock hitch reciver mount I made last year that when I used it with my old suspension setup It sagged really bad. Same setup with these king spring and they hardly sink at all even with the poor design I have with the swing mount. Its crazy.
 
#16 ·
The bar I am specifically wondering about is the 17mm bar from a baja.
What year BAJA? (Oh I see BAJA turbo ONLY)

The link I sent fits these years, NA BAJA. And I need to update that link to include the LGTs that came with a 16mm bar.
 

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#28 ·
Brown Santa came yesterday! Car is off to the alignment shop. Rear arms are getting installed (because lets be honest who wants to fight them lateral link bolts) and an alignment. Picking up my Sparco Terra and BFG KO2 setup in Saturday.

Wagon parked next to the wifes Jeep Trailhawk


Whiteline Arms
 
#32 ·
So I have noticed that in some situations where cornering and you hit a bump or what not the car seems to be unsettled for a few moments. Im wondering if thats due to the size of the front sway, the type of tires I am running, if the strut towers are flexing due to the extra strain of being lifted, or if thats just simply how the car will handle being that its lifted now and something I will just get used to. All in all the car handles as well if not better then when it was lowered and on the snow tires I had it on before I lifted it. The larger diameter springs and firmer spring rates really have helped alot and the unsettled feeling is very predicable so not really a cause for alarm. Just thinking out loud.
 
#33 ·
So I have noticed that in some situations where cornering and you hit a bump or what not the car seems to be unsettled for a few moments. Im wondering if thats due to the size of the front sway,
What are you running for the front sway bar? Stock 21mm? And if I remember, you have the 16mm rear bar from the LGT and upgraded :)love:) bushings, correct?

What is the rear alignment toe & camber, front alignment toe and camber?
 
#34 ·
I have factory stock 21mm in front yes. Then I have the 16mm rear still to install.

Checking with my alignment guy on what he set everything to. I forgot to ask for my print out when I was there. He is a quality alignment specialty shop that I give him free reign on what he belives would be the best setup for the parts I have on the car and what the car is designed for. I have been going to him for year so he knows my driving style well and all the alignments I have gotten have been top notch. Seems like its a hard thing to find with the amount of alignment horror stories I've been reading over the last few months on different forums.
 
#36 ·
Bump Steer is a fair point. I know that WL and AVO make (what they call) roll center kits. They come with longer ball joints and then tie-rods that are angled to reduce BS. However, they are made for lowered applications. I think 1/2 of the roll center kit (ball joints being longer will help). But you don't want the tie-rods since they are angled opposite what you are looking for. I think you can only get kits. If you decide to go for the kit for the longer BJs, I'll split it with you. I'd like to try the tie-rods for the lowered applications. That's just me thinking out loud.

I was asking about rear camber to see how negative (if at all) and if it is even..side to side in the rear.
 
#37 ·
Gotcha. I reached out to Jeff to see if he still had my printout. Knowing him though he does make sure its same side to side as well as zeroing the toe. something sticks in my mind that he said something as I was running out the door about having set the camber in the front at least to -.70 Don't quote me though. Hopefully he still has the print out.

I used the whiteline kit on my wrx I had a number of years ago and it worked great on that car. As you pointed out the current kits they sell are only for lowered applications I have not seen anything with the tie-rods being bent for lifted applications.

I will let you know if I do try out the different longer BJs and work out something to sell you the tie-rod ends.

Do you think there is any reason to believe that with the extra lift/leverage that the struts could be flexing the strut towers now? I know its not generally a issue on these cars with them so close to the firewall but with the lift there is a fair mount of extra leverage that subaru never intended the strut towers to see.
 
#38 ·
They could be. I know others who run a strut tower brace. I was going to get one to try myself, but never got around to it. I have run the under-chassis braces. Cusco makes a Power-Brace that replaces the stamped steel subframe-tie. Subaru SPT,Cusco, Bearush and AVO all make a LCA to subframe (4) point brace.

I have the Cusco power brace and the AVO LCA underchassis on Frankie. I am not currently running any bracing on Cherry. Cherry has BC coilovers with the camber plates, so no rubber in the mounts. Both cars have aluminum LCA and lots of poly everywhere. I don't feel much flex in either car.
 
#39 · (Edited)
The only piece of advice I'd offer (now that you've installed the whole shebang already) is to use OEM tophats (with the longer studs pressed in place of the stock studs with your spacers). I've got the ride height rallitek springs for the rear and 1/2" rear spacer, along with the 1/4" front spacer. Also did the 2004 rear kyb excel struts along with 2005 equivalent in the front.

I've had one brand new aftermarket rear top hat break where the strut fastens (pulled the nut and washer straight through). I had an extra OEM one for the other side, and is still fine. Pretty sure the new one I replaced the failed one with (I was in a pinch and had to go aftermarket again) is on it's way out now too.

I like your subie though! Always loved the red color. I've got a 05 OBXT myself. Make sure you get that turbo oil feed filter (hidden in the banjo bolt that connects to the back of the block) either cleaned, replaced, or removed completely. Had mine clog at approx. 110k and blow my turbo up.
 
#40 ·
Primitive Lift for 2005-09 Outbacks

What I have:

2005 Outback. 105k miles. AT. I bought it a year ago lowered on KYB G2 Legecy struts and lowering springs. The struts are shot and I am not in love with how the car currently looks lowered or how it somewhat hurts the function of the car as it is ment to be. That said I plan to remove the struts and springs and swap back in Outback struts and King Raising springs. I currently plan to go with the King springs that add 3/4" in the front 1" in the back plus the .5" spacer for the rear. Thanks all for your help and looking forward to getting to know some of you.

Jason
Hi Jason,
The 05-09 Outback King Spring and up-rated KYB setup is likely our number one selling and popular suspension mod. We performed shock dyno testing on several different struts to figure out what works best with the King RAISED springs on those cars. So the struts we pair up with the King Springs and little rear spacer (to get the rear up slighlty over the front) make a great combo for good ride, and great handling, even when lifted. Because we firm up the rear end, ghost walking and poor handling are corrected. Then you can also load more and sag less. We don't try to lift too much as to cause other issues. Many, many happy customers running these (I think somewhere around 1700 customers running those exact struts and springs). Lots of thank you letters. Some found under "Modify Your Car" on our website. Best to email us with any questions as we don't get out to these message boards very often... Paul at Primitive
 
#41 ·
Hi Jason,
The 05-09 Outback King Spring and up-rated KYB setup is likely our number one selling and popular suspension mod.

Paul at Primitive
Paul we worked together years ago on my 2006 OBXT, Frankie. You may or may not remember. Originally I went with the King Standard (rear) and I paired it with a new KYB and then stock spring and KYB up front. About 6 months later, I came back and was looking at a whole new setup, I wanted to get the dropped Kings then raise back up on spacers. You talked me out of spending all of that $.

You suggetsed the Koni inert for the front, we left the rear alone. You sold me, I experimented with a King 2" lifted Impreza spring and the Koni insert. I worked with you personally on the phone and email both times. I wanted to tell you how happy I was with the setup. The hybrid. Ultimately, Denver streets proved too harsh for the King/Koni combo up front. I kept the Koni and put the OB OEM spring back in. It's still harsh, but the Koni are known to be.

I remember your level of service, your caution and the conservation approach. I don't always read "the best feedback on the forums regarding Primitive ..." I try to take each opportunity to share my great experiences with you and Primitive. I was very excited back then when I had more time and $ for my favorite toy. Thanks for being part of FrankenWagon.
 
#44 ·
Hmmm, not sure why you would experience any difference in Bump Steer as the angles between lower arm, upper strut mounting point and the steering arm (tie rod) don't really change in relation to each other with the addition of King Springs. What is the front toe set to (static?). Should be slightly in, near zero. If worn wheel bearings you could see some deflection with bumps. Make sure the REAR toe is toed in. We use Gen 3 front struts on Gen 3 cars (typically). Pe
 
#46 ·
It is possible that one or more of the wheel bearings are worn. Car does have 109k on it. I did notice a change in the hum as I would corner on my snow tires. It is hard to hear/tell if that has changed with the K02 as they are louder then the snow tires I was running. I guess best way I can describe what I feel is when I hit a dip/large bump in the road the steering feels kinda floaty for a second or so after hitting the bump before it settles its self. In corners and what not it handles better then ever even with the KO2 tires.
 
#47 ·
Postive toe is no good, regardless of what the spec says. You don't want it. That right rear tire is wanting to dart right at any chance is gets. Especially when it hits a bump. Have you looked at the comments regarding having the alignment doen with a full tank and some cargo ballast?
 
#50 ·
It's been my experience that the toe stay zero, worst case. Especially if only one side. So the toe goes more positive with weight. If you target zero toe or a tad negative with weight...when empty .. you still should be midrange on the negative. Negative toe tracks better...like a V in skiing.

What happens in skiing when your tips spread...

One ski goes one way, one goes another. Especially if one side is positive and one negative.
 
#51 ·
It's been awhile since I read through the monster threads on 3rd gen suspension, but as I recall that's where someone mentioned a technical bulletin from Subaru calling for 2005-07 OBs to use the updated 2007 specs for the rear that eliminated the positive side of the toe-in range. That puts the toe-in at -3mm to 0mm, rather than the originally specified -3 to +3mm.

And as Chris said earlier, despite the specs calling for an empty car, having at least some weight in the back end gives you a little more safety margin; at worst, running empty after aligning with weight gives you a little more toe-in. Aligning with no weight and then loading it down (perhaps that once-in-a-blue-moon when you help someone move or go camping) pushes the wheels to a less stable toe-out position.
 

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