01 VDC, 05 R Sedan, 06 BAJA EJ257
Best way is engine jacked up on that side. Gives you a little more space for tapping it in.
I removed my cam seals by gently screwing a coarse-thread sheetrock screw thru the rubber until it pushed out a bit.
You might try that if the plug is rubber.
To install the new plug, oil the edges all the way around and tap it into place with a mallet and a socket slightly smaller than the plug - the socket distributes the force uniformly - still, try to get it going in straight, not slanted.
If there isn't the room to tap with a hammer or mallet, try to find something to pry against - pushing with a prybar against the socket.
ALSO looking at your picture above, at about 2:30 o"clock is a nick just outside the seal. Maybe someone got aggressive taking the last one out?
... Look at the plug seat for damage that could pass oil.
I've never replaced one of those with the engine in place before but I've driven punches through them then used the hole to pry it off. Obviously you can't go too deep because the back of the camshaft sits in there. I don't know what kind of access you'll have. Do not try to loosen your cam caps.. that's a whole new can of worms.
Driving your new cap back in will be the more difficult part than removing it. I assume this is on the right side of the engine since you were able to get a pic of it. The new cap will have to go in square and obviously have to be tapped in so...
You could try cleaning it up and just putting a little sealant on it. You could take it a step further and right when the sealant is applied, pop the engine oil fill cap and put the nozzle of your shop vac on there to put the engine under vacuum in hopes a vacuum might draw a little of your sealant into the crack that's leaking.
I've had success before on the timing chain cover on a H6 project car once stopping a slow oil weep dabbing a little sealant on the outside. It's not a great fix but as a temporary thing, sure.
All that said, the weep at that cam cap/seal is not the source of your 1.75 quarts over 1k miles. I wouldn't waste my time on it.
As Cardoc has mentioned.. seafoam oil treatment... stat. He recommends running the recommended amount of seafoam for the last 500 miles before changing the oil. I'd like to add that you can add it to a fresh oil change too. I would still follow his recommendation of adding it 500 miles before changing the oil though. The oil is going to be NASTY when you drain it.
My turbo car used to consume oil like yours but since I've started using seafoam in the oil consumption has gone wayyyyy down. My theory is the oil control rings get filled with carbon or other crap and they're not scraping the cylinder walls like they should since they're bound up. The seafoam will work its way in there and clear it out, freeing the control rings again allowing them to do their job. Try it.
If you do try seafoam.. document consumption rates please if you can. I wished I would have done that with the turbo car. I was sure it wasn't going to work is why I didn't but I would love if someone could get some data on it.