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2005, Subaru Outback 3.0r LL BEAN
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First off I started by putting the car in reverse, and it thudded like usual, then I let off the brake and started to roll back and hear a LOUD clank and stomp on the brakes and put it in park and look under and around the car and see nothing broken. I put the car back in reverse and it happens again! So this time I Get out with it in gear and the e brake on and check all the axles and boots and nothing is torn or anything! So I put it in drive and pull forwards and it clunks and clinks again.
So fast forward, to now I have it up on ramps and had a friends put it in gear and back into park and I think I figured out where the clank is coming from.

Can anyone give me any info on what this is and what the noise could be?

The car is a 2005 Subaru Outback LL BEAN 5eat.



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(formerly) 03 H6 OBW , (presently) 06 WRX Sportwagon & 2021 Honda CR-V
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could you get someone to pace the car or stand near each corner to pin-down the sounds location?

u-joints and diff mount bushings ---maybe even heat shields as the system shifts due to torque--- and several other items could be at fault.
 

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2013 Outback 2.5i Convenience
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1,372 Posts
I'd lift the wheels off the ground and see how much slop you have in the system. You could even throw it in neutral and manually rotate everything and see if there is a noise or some hang-up somewhere.
 

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2005, Subaru Outback 3.0r LL BEAN
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
@1 Lucky Texan
Ok so I hung out under the car and touched (what I assume is the transmission or center diff) and felt the clunk coming from that! I can't tell if it's because of the torque or if it's the CV axels cuz I felt both of them when my friend put it in reverse and back into park... it seemed to me it was coming from inside the casing.
I'm going to bring it in today and put it a lift and rotate everything and see what happens.


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(formerly) 03 H6 OBW , (presently) 06 WRX Sportwagon & 2021 Honda CR-V
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transmission mount?

also, inspect the rear bushings on the lower control arms.
 

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06 OBW 2.5, 05 Forester, had 03 H6 OBW
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A clunk felt on the diff could actually be coming down the driveline from a bad U-joint.
Clunk like that, especially of withe a PANG! or CLANG! type noise, U-joints my top suspect.
 

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2005, Subaru Outback 3.0r LL BEAN
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185 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well the news from TL Tillits Automotive is "my transmission is bad"
Which I STILL find REALLY hard to believe that simply putting it in reverse was what killed the tranny!
I mean my last car had been through like 4 accidents where the tranny had been hit and everything and it's STILL going strong.... but this car, IT COULDN'T EVEN REVERSE?! Do you guys see why it's driving me nuts?
@CNY_Dave and @1 Lucky Texan
Where are the u joints located and how do I inspect them? Just jiggle them? What am I looking for? Lots of play? No play?
And thanks again guys!!


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(formerly) 03 H6 OBW , (presently) 06 WRX Sportwagon & 2021 Honda CR-V
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wait...what's with this wreck deal?

anyway - try posting a request for a shop near you in a new thread. Maybe someone can recommend a different soob-friendly mechanic to take a look. Nothing wrong with a second opinion when replacement trans kinda prices are being discussed!

the 4eat trans is considered decently robust but - anything can happen in a wreck (oops - dunno anything about 5eat really)
 

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06 OBW 2.5, 05 Forester, had 03 H6 OBW
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The U joints are on the shaft that goes from the back of the trans to the rear diff.
They can be tough to diagnose on the car, I jack the rear up, jack stands of course, put it in N, and grab just ahead and behind each U joint and twist in opposite directions, back and forth.

If the noise is from in front of the trans, ahead of the sheet metal pan, that would be the front diff making the noise.
 

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2005, Subaru Outback 3.0r LL BEAN
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185 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If the noise is from in front of the trans, ahead of the sheet metal pan, that would be the front diff making the noise.


Ok so it is coming from in front of the transmission fluid pan (front being the direction where the radiator is)
So maybe it's the diff? What in the diff could be making it do that? Unless it's a u joint? Right? Basically I'm PRAYING it's not something over 1000!
@1 Lucky Texan
Yea the green outback drifting in my profile picture is my old OBW (Named Lucy)
She had hydroplaned and landed in a ditch... somewhere on here I was talking to TDCK about it and he gave me LOT of advice on it! (Which if your reading this, thanks!) and then it also got into another accident where someone didn't straps there bicycle on there van right and I was on the freeway and it broke off and got caught under my car and it finally totaled it... :/ (I bought it back and fixed it and gave it to my brother for his 19th birthday)
Anyways my BLUE OBW is an LL bean and named Chloe. She has had 4 engine blocks since I've had her (5 months) because I kept getting failed EZ30D dropped into by Tillits, it's not there fault they kept getting bad blocks from wherever they were getting them... :/


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A bad u-joint can mess up the transmission. When I bought the second car, it had driveshaft replaced due to a bad u-joint. It was binding. They also installed a Subi reman transmission. Which I think is procedure due to the possible damage to the existing unit that was in the car.

I'm just throwing it out there, without being there.
 

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2005, Subaru Outback 3.0r LL BEAN
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
@traildogck
So maybe I should just replace the DIFF and the tranny just to be on the safe side?
I've always heard that the 5eat tranny is a GREAT tranny, it was even used on the wagon Volvo v70 and xv70 cross tour AWD models and in Nissan pathfinders and XTerra's... :/
Hmmm

Would the Japanese 5eat work? I see LOTS of those with low miles on eBay and I've debated on getting one...


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You can't put a 5EAT in your car.

I mean, you can...but it would cost a lot more than a JDM unit off ebay. What are they going for anyway?

And it would be a sh*t ton of work.
 

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2005, Subaru Outback 3.0r LL BEAN
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I have a 5eat in my car already, it's a 6cyl... cuz it's the LL BEAN, unless the 5sp is called something else? (It's a 5sp auto)

On eBay it's like 800 plus 100 to ship, I mean it's not bad and with less then 30,000 miles....



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(formerly) 03 H6 OBW , (presently) 06 WRX Sportwagon & 2021 Honda CR-V
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I think you need to somehow confirm this isn't a bad inner cv joint.

also, the magnet on the front diff's plug might be good to inspect.

maybe start checking LKQ and car-part.com for a trans ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
@1 Lucky Texan
What the heck? There is a magnet on the diff?
Where's it hiding at so I can inspect the fella and see?

I think I'm going to just drain both the diff and tranny and see what kind of particles are in it, if any at all...
That may also be a good place to start? Right?


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The magnets are on the plugs.

Sorry about the 4EAT confusion. I thought I saw 4...maybe it was the 4 accidents.
 

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(formerly) 03 H6 OBW , (presently) 06 WRX Sportwagon & 2021 Honda CR-V
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pretty certain, the front diff takes a T-70 torx.(I might be remembering my other car...?) The plug and magnet sits right next to the dif so, if it's missing teeth or has unusual wear - I'd expect the magnet to have 'pieces' on it or more than the typical 1/4-1/2 teaspoon of fine 'sludge'. I also got confused, maybe the 5eat is different?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
@traildogck
Haha it's fine! Yes the 4eat was my old green OBW (now happily owned by my little brother)
The 5eat is on my new LL bean.
Which I LOVE! I LOVE the power it has and everything (heck it beat a 3 4 and 5 series BMW!)
It's this stinking issue I still can't seem to pin point...
And it doesn't help that I was supposed to get help with the car but my help never showed up (2 days ago...) I may have to go hunt him down and open a can of whoop a** now... JK, BUT I do need to find him....
I'll be back on here tomorrow... I will let you guys know what happens.


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Hey man I'm having the exact same issue as you. Only I'm driving an 01 Subaru outback limited wagon. to get a cv axle as mine was not in good shape and we thought that was the issue. When I got the car I was told my wheel bearing needed to be replaced and I neglected that. Anyone know if it could be the failed wheel bearing catching the axle? I was told by a guy it was my transmission but this kinda gave me hope it might not be that. I'm experience the loud jolt and sounds. Does yours also quite down in nuetral like mine does? Also going to look into my u joint as well. Will let you guys know. edit: the guy I got the car off rebuilt the engine and transmission about 70k ago. Got a wicked deal on it and a parts car. $500 for both. So I've got a bunch of parts I can swap back and forth to I figure out what's wrong. My brothers a mechanic and willing to help me out with this too. Hopefully it's the same issue for us both.
 
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