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Discussion Starter #21
I just checked the compatibility table on that Ebay listing and it says that Mevotech bushing is not compatible with my '10 OB 2.5i. I wouldn't get them this time around anyway. I already have a pair of OEM bushings, and it's not worth it to justify paying the return shipping on them. Maybe next time.

Middleagesubie, I'm not sure what you mean by using a wrench. This is basically the method I'll be using...
How-To Install a Bushing Without a Press - Suspension.com
 

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While researhing out of curiosity I found the Mevotech bushing available on ebay. Hmmm in the main ebay search page it says it fits outbacks and there are listings for outbacks.
Suspension Control Arm Bushing Front Lower Rear fits 10-16 Subaru Forester | eBay
I just checked the compatibility table on that Ebay listing and it says that Mevotech bushing is not compatible with my '10 OB 2.5i. I wouldn't get them this time around anyway. I already have a pair of OEM bushings, and it's not worth it to justify paying the return shipping on them. Maybe next time.

Middleagesubie, I'm not sure what you mean by using a wrench. This is basically the method I'll be using...
How-To Install a Bushing Without a Press - Suspension.com
Yup, that's what I meant.

I have not seen the listings in question but when I searched the online stores I never saw a stand-alone Mevotech bushing. Only the LCA or a stand-alone ball joint. However, this bushing is the same across multiple Subaru models from ca. 2005 to ca. 2015 so listings are not necessarily accurate.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Well, I did the swap on Saturday. After going back and forth on whether to press the bushings myself with a DIY press or take it to a shop to use their press, I chose the latter and took it in. In the end, it was the cheaper option and after the effort involved using the shop press, I'm not sure my DIY solution would have worked. Those bushings were in there tight! It was nice being able to have a 20 ton jack assisting me. The only issue was finding a set of drifts/fittings for the press that would fit the ~60mm bushing. And keeping the setup straight while pressing them proved to be a real challenge. I think after doing it, next time I'll just buy whole new LCA's with the bushings already included. By then, the front LCA bushing will probably need to be replaced anyway.

One thing that helped make pressing in the new bushings easier was that I packed the new ones in a cooler full of ice packs. It might have been all in my head, but I think they shrunk up just enough to help. That combined with lots of grease and they pressed right in.

I broke my HF torque wrench though in the process of tourque-ing down the bolts during reassembly of the LCA. Luckily this weekend was their tent sale so I just went and got the bigger one for $10. I needed it anyway to get the bolts to the spec'd 103.3 ft-lbs.

I'll drive it around this week and probably check the bolts again next Sat. to make sure everything is snugged up correctly. That job combined with a power steering flush and new air filters saved me around $700 from the dealership quote!
 

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Storing new components in the freezer overnight made all the difference in a couple of suspension parts replacement jobs that a buddy and I did on two of our vehicles in the past couple of years. So no, this was not all in your head. It can be a very helpful strategy.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Definitely an overnight freeze would have been better. I'm not sure how effective putting them on ice only an hour before pressing helped. That's more where I wonder if it was just in my head. I had meant to put them in the freezer but forgot the night before. :p
 

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If the bushing are worn so much that there is a little sloppiness in the wheels...get them changed...ask them to show you...take you into the garage and have them do a a grade 6 show and tell comparing them to new ones...
 

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I too need to look at replacement bushings or just replace the whole enchilada of A-Arm, ball joints etc.

Maybe looking at a better A-Arm with a slight stiffer bushing, nothing too firm, don't want to destroy the entire front end and struts. Just enough to take a bit of the numb feeling.

Guess I'll have to start looking.
 

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Definitely an overnight freeze would have been better. I'm not sure how effective putting them on ice only an hour before pressing helped. That's more where I wonder if it was just in my head. I had meant to put them in the freezer but forgot the night before. :p
So, I went on and replaced the entire LCAs of the Tribeca. Since there is no aftermarket option, that cost me almost as much as bushing-only replacement at the dealer but for a car with 140,000 the new ball joints and other bushings cannot be a bad thing. I also replaced the stabilizer bushings, the end links are new as well.

The good thing about AZ is the fact that there was no rust to speak of, I did not use any fluid and did not have any problems taking out any bolts.
The bad news is that the rubber becomes stiff as plastic, the old stabilizer bushings broke on removal. Oh, and 104F in my garage in the morning helped ensure a leisurely pace. There is no way I would have experimented with bushing removal at these temps...a full LCA replacement is an uneventful plug-and-play.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I love having rust free vehicles. Makes things so much easier!


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So, I went on and replaced the entire LCAs of the Tribeca. Since there is no aftermarket option, that cost me almost as much as bushing-only replacement at the dealer but for a car with 140,000 the new ball joints and other bushings cannot be a bad thing. I also replaced the stabilizer bushings, the end links are new as well.

The good thing about AZ is the fact that there was no rust to speak of, I did not use any fluid and did not have any problems taking out any bolts.
The bad news is that the rubber becomes stiff as plastic, the old stabilizer bushings broke on removal. Oh, and 104F in my garage in the morning helped ensure a leisurely pace. There is no way I would have experimented with bushing removal at these temps...a full LCA replacement is an uneventful plug-and-play.
I envy your relatively rust free environment! Not sure if the Tribeca is a similar ball joint style as our OB's, but curious what you ended up using/doing to pop the old balljoints out of the knuckle? I had a beast of a time getting mine out when I installed my lift. I was gonna do just the bushings but then decided it was worth the time savings and effort by replacing the whole LCA which comes with bushing and balljoint installed, as you know. My car also was already around 90,000 miles at lift time so...

and another thing, did you do the endlinks on the front or rear? I did rallitech rears with my lift and so far couldn't be happier. Last I checked I thought they maybe just started offering a front adjustable product, either branded by them or another companies...
 

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Discussion Starter #31

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I envy your relatively rust free environment! Not sure if the Tribeca is a similar ball joint style as our OB's, but curious what you ended up using/doing to pop the old balljoints out of the knuckle? I had a beast of a time getting mine out when I installed my lift. I was gonna do just the bushings but then decided it was worth the time savings and effort by replacing the whole LCA which comes with bushing and balljoint installed, as you know. My car also was already around 90,000 miles at lift time so...

and another thing, did you do the endlinks on the front or rear? I did rallitech rears with my lift and so far couldn't be happier. Last I checked I thought they maybe just started offering a front adjustable product, either branded by them or another companies...
Hmm...I am afraid I did not know that getting the balljoints out was supposed to be a problem. I think I used a screwdriver as a lever with little pressure on one side and just pulled by hand on the other side. This is about the TB.

As for the OB, I put adjustable Rallitek sway bar links up front. It was not too easy to tighten the bolt that holds the two parts together while keeping both ends in perfect position. Indeed, I have to check to see if all is good. Honestly, I am not sure the extra 0.5" length makes much of a difference. Maybe offroad. The rear suspension is 2" lift with 2" drop so I have not considered adjustable links for that. I might get Moog Problem Solvers to replace the stock links though for the heck of it. The stock ones have been through a lot.
 
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