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Discussion Starter #1
Now I know the Outbacks, especially the 4-bangers can, and never will, never achieve much higher HP/Torque than the 170ish they currently sit at, but just curious to what people think some easy gains could be. Like on my car, a Gen 4 2.5, currently have K&N air filter and Nameless axle back w/ the muffler delete. Feels a little more peppy, but probably in my head. Here in the nearish future as far as intake/exhaust goes, planning a aFe intake when I get new front brakes, and Inferno Fab UEL headers, and then when money allows, get the rest of my exhaust done with 2.5" piping and go catless. Seeing as the guys who will do my exhaust fb are also tuners, see if it is worth it to get my computer tuned while I'm there. Barring the tune, what are some spit ball estimates as to what the engine could be pushing? I would guess maybe, at the most, a little over 200whp.
 

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2015 Outback Limited 3.6r
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Now I know the Outbacks, especially the 4-bangers can, and never will, never achieve much higher HP/Torque than the 170ish they currently sit at, but just curious to what people think some easy gains could be. Like on my car, a Gen 4 2.5, currently have K&N air filter and Nameless axle back w/ the muffler delete. Feels a little more peppy, but probably in my head. Here in the nearish future as far as intake/exhaust goes, planning a aFe intake when I get new front brakes, and Inferno Fab UEL headers, and then when money allows, get the rest of my exhaust done with 2.5" piping and go catless. Seeing as the guys who will do my exhaust fb are also tuners, see if it is worth it to get my computer tuned while I'm there. Barring the tune, what are some spit ball estimates as to what the engine could be pushing? I would guess maybe, at the most, a little over 200whp.
oh boy, you're going really poking the beehive with a post like that.
Other than forced induction I don't really think air movement pieces are going to give you bumps of that proportions. Obviously theres a lot of factors, tuning, running on higher octane (w/ and w/o tune) adding headers, adding/removing mufflers, chaining air intake, or changing the pedal mapping. Barring all those, personally I don't think you could get an extra 25 bump with the aforementioned additions aside from that forced induction, on the 2.5 anyway. Especially with out a tune.
And if I'm wrong, let me know, because if so I'd love to know that I can see those kind of strong gains over stock. Thats what the aftermarket community is for.

Also, I don't think its wise or constructive for posts following threads like these that say "well its a placebo" or "louder =/ faster".
 

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Master Caster
2005 XT, Mildly Modified...2006 XT Limited, Highly Modifed
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16,120 Posts
currently have K&N air filter and Nameless axle back w/ the muffler delete. Feels a little more peppy, but probably in my head.

Yes this is in your head, OK 3-5HP ... maybe, how many stickers you pushing? It takes me at least 5 stickers to feel anything.

Barring the tune, what are some spit ball estimates as to what the engine could be pushing? I would guess maybe, at the most, a little over 200whp.
No ... infact, the UEL header might actually rob you of some efficiency. I donlt think you can see 200 HP with the tune. I would check and see if the shop can even tune it. Very few tuners will crack the ECU for a 2.5 NA gen4 Outback.

XRT (Extreme Racing Tuning) Ed, is one who has. But 30HP I think is a stretch. Even with all of the Mods.
 

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2010 2.5 CVT Limited
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I would be very surprised if you could get 200whp from bolt on mods like those.
Keep in mind the 170hp is net hp at the flywheel.
Does anyone have the numbers for a stock 2.5 at the wheel? I would be interested to know what it is, but I would guess 130ish (It can be estimated from performance numbers too).
 

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Master Caster
2005 XT, Mildly Modified...2006 XT Limited, Highly Modifed
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16,120 Posts
I would be very surprised if you could get 200whp from bolt on mods like those.
Keep in mind the 170hp is net hp at the flywheel.
Does anyone have the numbers for a stock 2.5 at the wheel? I would be interested to know what it is, but I would guess 130ish (It can be estimated from performance numbers too).
123 - 133 WHP.

AWD rigs lose about 22 - 27% to the real world wheels.
 

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'03 outback limited, '01 Outback Limited, '01 Legacy L wagon, '96 Legacy Brighton wagon
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Proper equal length headers with decent sized pipes and a non-restrictive muffler behind it will be worth maybe 3-10 HP at best, but most of that will be at or near max revs. Super slippery oils can get a couple HP. No idea if shedding all of the rear drive stuff would give you much, though losing that amount of weight will help some. Losing mass will be give the best return overall, but isn't easy and can get rather expensive - never mind make the interior (the easiest place to shed weight) rather spartan!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thats what I was thinking. Not planning on making this car a super beast, power wise, unless I wanted to dump a new engine/tranny and all that fun stuff in it (who knows, that could still be that case for this car way down the line when I want a real project.) Am planning on shedding weight from it, mainly interior, such as removing the rear seats, and getting lighter "race-style" seats. I live in my car 8 months of the year, so pretty hard to shed a **** of a lot of weight from the inside. Planning other mods, of course, like ADF's 2" lift, longer/stiffer springs/struts, etc, etc. Was just kinda curious.
Thanks for the info, thought the 170hp may have been have been at the brake rather than the wheel, but oh well. Can still improve handling and versatility in it a lot.
 

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On the Super Mod Squad
02 Pair: 3.0 VDC Wag & 2.5 Limited Sedan
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26,215 Posts
typing in a advertisers way: "want more Horsepower?"

throw the K&N filter in the garbage. old wet oil ones never get clean,...and vacuuming out the dry ones seems tiedious

put on a nice clean paper filter. ...cheap. easy,....logical.
 

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2012 OB , 2017 Impreza
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"want more Horsepower?"

throw the K&N filter in the garbage. old wet oil ones never get clean,...and vacuuming out the dry ones seems tiedious
AGREED!! The "oiled guaze" type of air-filters do NOTHING good for your engine. They filter worse, they spray oil all over the inside of your intake-plenum, they contaminate your MAF sensor. (Which reduces power)

The ONLY people who use "oiled guaze" type of air-filters are the ones who believe all the hype of the advertisements without understanding the physics behind airfow.

Said another way - more airflow=LESS filtration.... but your engine DOES NOT NEED more airflow than what a quality pleated-paper filter provides. If you do not belive it.... hook up a manometer and MEASURE it for yourself.
 

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To answer the OP question.... the cheapest way to approach 300 WHP is to use nitrous injection.... but your engine/CVT may not last more than a couple minutes.
 
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