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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Good day all,

I am looking to put my old town XL Tripper 20' ontop of my recently aquired limited. I had it on my previous vehicle, a ford escape, had no problem with generic tuhle attachment and canoe stops but, it had good spread.

I could use the rear holes on rails and the forward ones and could get a good spread. Do you know if thule makes anything that screws into rails and hold the cross tube?

Are there any other aftermarket options?

Thanks.





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Discussion Starter #3
Thank for the reply smart @$$!.

How about ya Answer the part about the thule attachments, jack!
 

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Thank for the reply smart @$$!.

How about ya Answer the part about the thule attachments, jack!
That's no way to ask for help. Besides, I don't see anything about Thule in your original question, you wrote "thile".

Proofread next time.
 

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I know this isn't the answer you're looking for, but I've carried many a canoe, and I've always just used foam blocks. Nothing larger than 18' though, so these may not work for you.

But I've always used something like these foam blocks and never had an issue aside from some paint scratches once in a blue moon from loading it like a jackass.
 

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Well he stated "had no problem with generic tuhle attachment ". Miss-spelled Thule, but I fully understood what he's asking, which is how to use Thule cross bars on the Subaru rail system. Note that in order to help I researched as well that the OT 20' canoe has a width of 41", exceeding the 39" width of the factory bars, thus the question about how to mount the Thule's.

In truth the Thule cross-bars want a new fit kit to work with the Subaru F/R rail system. I can't tell which year OB this is, the photo's show an older than '15 OB system where the rails were "blockier". In general the Thule adapters for OB's have a set of mounts that clamp onto the stock cross-bars in their stored position. This method sucks, IMO, as the front to rear spread isn't that great.

I (and other OB owners) have manufactured custom aluminum mounts that install in the tie-down brackets (removed), and adapting my 50" Thule square bars for these mounts. Rock solid system, has over 38" front to rear spread so the canoes have support. Depends if you are handy or not. Thread here: 2015 Outback + Yakima Crossbars

As my custom cross-bar system did not allow use of my Thule roof box (clamps too short F to R to mount on bars) I purchased the Yakima Landing Pad system and new Yak 50" cross bars. It was worth it as the system installs in about minutes and is perfect for a canoe - which Iv'e carried on multiple occasions at 75mph.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I know this isn't the answer you're looking for, but I've carried many a canoe, and I've always just used foam blocks. Nothing larger than 18' though, so these may not work for you.

But I've always used something like these foam blocks and never had an issue aside from some paint scratches once in a blue moon from loading it like a jackass.
Thanks for the reply!
I have used that same setup until I came across the current thule rack I have. It will connect to the side rails of most suv's. With the canoe blocks, it's a great strong system.

The problem with using that rack on the outback is the spread would be too narrow due to where I would have to mount it to the side rails.

That's why I was wondering if there where other options th mount a thule cross bar at a wide spread..

My canoe is 100 lbs so would prefer an aftermarket rack.

Whatever gets your canoe to the water.

Best,

BH
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well he stated "had no problem with generic tuhle attachment ". Miss-spelled Thule, but I fully understood what he's asking, which is how to use Thule cross bars on the Subaru rail system. Note that in order to help I researched as well that the OT 20' canoe has a width of 41", exceeding the 39" width of the factory bars, thus the question about how to mount the Thule's.

In truth the Thule cross-bars want a new fit kit to work with the Subaru F/R rail system. I can't tell which year OB this is, the photo's show an older than '15 OB system where the rails were "blockier". In general the Thule adapters for OB's have a set of mounts that clamp onto the stock cross-bars in their stored position. This method sucks, IMO, as the front to rear spread isn't that great.

I (and other OB owners) have manufactured custom aluminum mounts that install in the tie-down brackets (removed), and adapting my 50" Thule square bars for these mounts. Rock solid system, has over 38" front to rear spread so the canoes have support. Depends if you are handy or not. Thread here: 2015 Outback + Yakima Crossbars

As my custom cross-bar system did not allow use of my Thule roof box (clamps too short F to R to mount on bars) I purchased the Yakima Landing Pad system and new Yak 50" cross bars. It was worth it as the system installs in about minutes and is perfect for a canoe - which Iv'e carried on multiple occasions at 75mph.
Awesome reply... thank you!!
That is exactly what I was trying to find out... if I can attach my thule (or a yak) to my 2013 OB at wide spread. I know I can install it with rails stowed but to narrow a spread. I was hoping and assumed that you would be able to mount an aftermarket rack with a decent spread, thought the aft holes in rails could be used in some way.

I am still processing the info in your post, going to look into a few things. Again, thanks for the informative reply.

BH
 

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Discussion Starter #10
@Lightingguy answered my question; there are no aftermarket rack options with a wide spread. However, he did put me on one of his posts that shows how to fabricate the required brackets to make it work. I am handy and my buddy is a welder and the specs he could make the brackets no problem.

Thanks for the help all.

Stay safe and classy.

BH.
 

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Bush Hippy,

How exactly were you loading canoes before? I've found, personally, that the rails get in the way if I rooftop anything bigger than a 16 footer - it gets hard to "shove it in there" between the factory rack rails, and especially hard if I do it alone (and hence, the paint scratches).

I'd love to read about the system you used before to load canoes up there...
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Bush Hippy,

How exactly were you loading canoes before? I've found, personally, that the rails get in the way if I rooftop anything bigger than a 16 footer - it gets hard to "shove it in there" between the factory rack rails, and especially hard if I do it alone (and hence, the paint scratches).

I'd love to read about the system you used before to load canoes up there...
With the roof rack that you mentioned above, I would have the canoe (17') on my shoulders like a portage and walk up to the vehicle at a 45 degree angle (from rear) keeping bow high, I would then rest forward half of canoe on top of vehicle crossbar, then slightly lift rear of canoe, shifting the weight forward and kind of pivot on
The front and swing the back on the vehicle.
Your height and vehicle height will play a factor.
With the after market cross bars I just walk up to the vehicle from behind, rest the forward weight on rear cross bar, then slide the canoe forward untill it becomes forward heavy and sits down on rack. Easy peasy. Factory cross bars are too narrow to load this way and risk your canoe sliding off a side.
Once you go aftermarket, you dont go back.
 

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@Lightingguy answered my question; there are no aftermarket rack options with a wide spread. However, he did put me on one of his posts that shows how to fabricate the required brackets to make it work. I am handy and my buddy is a welder and the specs he could make the brackets no problem.

Thanks for the help all.

Stay safe and classy.

BH.
There is an aftermarket system made by Yakima. It uses the Landing Pad tower (I think LP15), plus whatever length Yak cross bar you want in round or aero. I use 50" Core (aero) bars, but they go to like 66" or something. The Yak system has you remove the stock OB cross bars, then re-purposes the OB crossbar mounting holes to install ":feet" that stay installed. The towers and cross bars then easily clamp to the feet. My rack literally installs in about 2 minutes. This is a much better system than what Thule uses as the front to rear spread can be up to 309", which offers good support for a boat.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
There is an aftermarket system made by Yakima. It uses the Landing Pad tower (I think LP15), plus whatever length Yak cross bar you want in round or aero. I use 50" Core (aero) bars, but they go to like 66" or something. The Yak system has you remove the stock OB cross bars, then re-purposes the OB crossbar mounting holes to install ":feet" that stay installed. The towers and cross bars then easily clamp to the feet. My rack literally installs in about 2 minutes. This is a much better system than what Thule uses as the front to rear spread can be up to 309", which offers good support for a boat.
I will look into that but, due to the fact that I have the thule bar and canoe stops, those brackets would be the easiest and cheapest way to go. Got to have a better look at my vehicle and see how you mounted them to the rails.
Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Lightingguy am I missing any parts from my roof rack in order to do the mod you did? As I mentioned I bought this car used and not sure if I am missing any tie down bolts or anything I need to fasten brackets to car.
484743

484744
 
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