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Has anyone used the bushings that come in these control arms? I'm thinking they are probably as good as stock, so will have to be replaced eventually, but in the meantime how bad could they be?

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They are better than stock...IMPO...out of the box...long term durability...not sure about that. The ball joint is top notch...I can tell u that.
 

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It's a 2.5 4 cyl 08' Limited



Agreed!
Interesting. I have been working on some chassis prototype stuff. Which I now thinks only applies to the 2005-2006-ish model engine subframes. All my hard work...it seems can be eliminated...buy installing a '08+ engine subframe.

My product market just shrunk....By a whole bunch...

I feel like I been kicked in the n*ts...But thank you...
 

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Well thanks for the info gentlemen. Guess I will add these to the list of parts. After replacing the control arms last august with OEM's the feeling is so......meh. Hoping by adding these mevo's with new whiteline or existing perrin bushings will bring the smile back.
 

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Interesting. I have been working on some chassis prototype stuff. Which I now thinks only applies to the 2005-2006-ish model engine subframes. All my hard work...it seems can be eliminated...buy installing a '08+ engine subframe.

My product market just shrunk....By a whole bunch...

I feel like I been kicked in the n*ts...But thank you...
You're welcome and sorry! :wink2:
 

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Side by side comparison. It rides so nice with the new parts on.
 

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@99 subie outback

I am glad u posted the picture of the left (driver) side. That one has that weird tab with the 2 holes. No idea what that's for. the other side is without...and both sides of the oem steel are without the tab...
 

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@99 subie outback

I am glad u posted the picture of the left (driver) side. That one has that weird tab with the 2 holes. No idea what that's for. the other side is without...and both sides of the oem steel are without the tab...
The tab is for the auto-leveling HID headlights, which of course we didn't get in the US.

http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/en_b13/type_36/electronic/electrical_parts_body/illustration_4/
@99 subie outback

I am glad u posted the picture of the left (driver) side. That one has that weird tab with the 2 holes. No idea what that's for. the other side is without...and both sides of the oem steel are without the tab...
You're welcome. They both fit prefect and everything was a breeze. Rides so nice. And I'm mistaken. It doesn't lean anymore.

Traildog, I though you were kidding at first. Haha.

Front brakes are all done. Still need to address the not fully tightened strut nut in the mount.
 

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I'm on the fence about these. My bushings need to be replaced. I should probably just get theses.
I'm in the same situation. My bushings aren't terrible just yet, but they are starting to look worse and worse every time I look at them. Hopefully, this summer I can just swap them out myself to save some labor costs. I'll probably replace the struts too while I'm at it.
I'm at 113k for reference.

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Same here. My front lca bushings look like ****. Im contemplating ordering these new arms and doing the work myself. My only reservation is removing the ball joint from the knuckle. I had a shop replace my drivers side ball joint last year and they broke the pinch bolt, and had to have a shop drill it out for them and replace it with a bolt and nut. I have a feeling this will be the case for the passenger side too, and I dont want to deal with it. At least with new parts the labor will be reduced regardless of what happens with the ball joint because that bridge will have to be crossed anyways.
I am curious about the added caster you can get with some of the whiteline/ group N bushings. Would pressing in these bushings have more of a performance benefit than the new mevotech arms? (im riding on outback specific bc coilovers setup around stock legacy height)

My rear trailing arm bushings look really tired too. I wonder how much those worn bushings are affecting the ride/ performance. From what I read about replacing those bushings involves pulling the entire arm from the car to use a press, which is very labor intensive. I'd like to avoid replacing them but if im going to be doing an alignment for the fronts anyways and if it will refresh the suspension then maybe its worth it.
 

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In short yes it will improve a lot.

The whiteline caster/anti-lift will give you better turn in response. Plus for the XT the anti lift will lock that beast down flat to the road. I had the PSRS which is the same idea as whiteline but it has an open top. Response was amazing but the vibes from the road are increase 100%. I'm tempted to put the perrin's back on to the mevotechs but my previous experience with them popping out of the control arms still worries me. New england roads are not friendly.

If you are at stock LGT height you may want to replace the rear lat arms and may want to add the whiteline bump steer kit as well. And yes replacing any bushings on the car will help greatly.
 

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It's on my list of things to do very soon before winter sets in. I hate when I punch the gas and the whole front goes sky bound. Having the PSRS kit was excellent. Locked down to the road, better turning just a crap load of road vibrations. And they corrode so fast so that part sucked. But the mevo's are on my list....at the very top actually with the whiteline anti-lift kit.
 

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I hit a rock offroading two years ago and had the front left control arm replaced (with a Subaru part). Now the rear bushing of the front right control arm is in pretty rough shape and I want to replace the whole arm. Is it fine to replace just that control arm with the mevotech? My front left control arm is still in great condition so I don't want to replace it. Can the car's ride suffer negatively if I have one Subaru control arm and one Mevotech?
 
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