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Yes, jdim88 you can do just one side and be fine with no ill effects.
No, dsb1829. They don't appear to be anodized.
 

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My LCA's held up nicely for 130k miles and 8+ years, but the rear bushings were just about worn through



I replaced them with Mevotech's instead of bothering to press out/press in bushings. Without that hassle, replacing the entire LCA's were quite simple, especially having had no rust issues with the ball joint pinch bolt.



Using a through hole socket wrench helps to loosen the sway bar end links



and you'll also want to jack up the LCA to bring it horizontal before removing the sway bar end links and ball joint, it just makes things easier.

Be sure to get a front end alignment after you're done. Good luck.
 

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I bought a set of Mevotach Lower Control Arms for my 08 Outback. The big selling point was the price and the fact that these came with a new ball joint and there was no need to use a press to get the old bushings out. At the time these were just $109 per side with the ball joint and bushings from Rock Auto. They looked real nice and in fact these are made of aluminum unlike the OEM ones which are solid steel. A year later in OH these AL arms don't have any rust! They definitely improved the ride and things were much stiffer. Installation was not easy as the bushings are so firm being new that it takes huge amounts of force to bend them down enough to get the ball joint to fit it. Mine did not come with a replacement pinch bolt.


But I did have an issue. The drivers' side ball joint started to creak pretty bad after about 5k miles. It is a silicon ball joint and cannot be lubricated per Mevotech customer service. Since it was on its way out, I went ahead anyway and used a lube gun with a needle point and shot some grease into the bushings. This did quiet things down but only lasted a few 100 miles. So I contacted Mevotech and Rock Auto and they would accept the control arms and ball joint as a combo to return but not piece by piece and of course I had to send in the old parts before they send the new ones. So no way on that. Any way I bought a Subaru ball joint and switched it out. But that is when more trouble started! I could not figure out why everything was not fitting right. The ball joint went way to deep into the control arm and the nut was going all the way up. Turns out! An important lesson!

These aftermarket Aluminum control arms have a special cone that sits inside the well where the ball joint goes. If you do not have the cone, the ball joint will not fit right. It is not uncommon for someone (like me!) to remove the old ball joint and be so happy that it is out that you will not even notice that the cone come out too and remains attached to the old ball joint which you threw away. So I went back into the garbage and recovered the cone, placed in in the well, and all went well!!
 

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Mevotech versus Moog or AC Delco? My ball joints are OK and don't need replacing.

The Moogs or AC Delco are $150 shipped - no ball joints.

Just need new bushings really. Can get whiteline bushings but then I need to find someone to press them.
 

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My mevotech ball joints also started creaking really bad after 1000 miles. I tried to do a return on them but Rock auto said they were discounted. I put in new ball joints and everything is fine now.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

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I'm looking at having to do my LCAs now due to torn bushings. I can actually get Moog LCAs and Moog ball joints for a little less than the cost of the Mevotechs. Hearing about some of the ball joint issues has me wondering if the Moogs might be the better choice. Really can't find any feedback on Moog though. These days, despite being name brand parts, it's no guarantee of quality. I also wonder if the steel arms are a better choice for the more off-road oriented Outback (not that I'd ever explore the limits where that might come into play).

And my ball joints seem okay, so I could just go with the LCAs and leave the ball joints for later. That saves about $60 over the Mevotechs. But, at 131K miles, and halfway through the labor process of replacing the joints, it's one of those thing you can make a pretty good argument for replacing out of convenience.
 

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just throwing it out there....

I'm coming up on a year with the aluminum mevos, no problems with them at all.

The reduced mass and stiff aluminum construction communicates a little extra "zinginess" to the steering wheel, but I have to put these mevos down as a net improvement over the stock stamped steel arms. I like the overall feel.

I'm sure the steel would be more forgiving in a more challenging environment- the worst I've put my Outback through in the last year was 30 miles on a badly holed gravel road.
 

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No issues with my mevotech control arms either 16k and almost a year later.

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I just replaced the front struts (KYB G-2) on my 2005 OBW Bean H6. The control arms looked like the cast Mevotech.
Even had the tab with two holes in it. I am the 3rd owner of the car (lady, friend, me). I doubt somebody changed them
but?

Trig
 

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I just replaced the front struts (KYB G-2) on my 2005 OBW Bean H6. The control arms looked like the cast Mevotech.
Even had the tab with two holes in it. I am the 3rd owner of the car (lady, friend, me). I doubt somebody changed them
but?

Trig
Check the rear LCA bushing. If it's solid, looks like a spacecraft, they are Mevotech. If not, (has a similar voided bushing) they are WRX or JDM arms.
 

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I just ordered the Mevotechs. $205 shipped for the pair from Rock Auto.
Looks like that will be my project for next weekend... along with fixing the actuator on the heater.

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Hi, did you fix the actuator on the heater? My 2010 actuator making bunch of noise, sadly its the one on the driver's side which is said to be way harder to get at and fix than passengers. How did mevotechs work out? Need to do my 04 Forester. Thx
 

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Hi, did you fix the actuator on the heater? My 2010 actuator making bunch of noise, sadly its the one on the driver's side which is said to be way harder to get at and fix than passengers. How did mevotechs work out? Need to do my 04 Forester. Thx
Replaced DS actuator with used one.
Mevotechs work great.

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I used the complete assembly unchanged. I think the included bushings take braking loads better than the stock ones, but maybe not as good as the whitelines I had on the car circa 2011-2016.
 

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Creaky ball joint x 2!!!

Installed these MEVOTECH CMS80182 about a year and a half ago and less than 6 months later my DRIVER SIDE BALL JOINT STARTED CREAKING LIKE MAD.



I contacted Mevotech, and long and short, in order to utilize the warranty, I had to replace the entire LCA since it was purchased from Rock Auto. No problem with the warranty exchange BUT....


Less than 2 months and 3000 miles later, the replacement Ball Joint in the new Drivers-side LCA is now CREAKING LIKE MAD!!!!



Dumb luck?

Does anyone think there could be another factor or variable in my suspension causing premature failure?




Are there any mistakes that can be made during installation to cause premature failure?


Uggggghhhhhh....Help!



I still have my OEM LCA's and I'm thinking I need to just press in some fresh bushings, replace my old high mileage ball joints with Stock, and go back to factory original...
 
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