Hi Brucey,
I can't find the mod thread for converting power ports to full time power not just when ignition is on. Particurally the cargo area power port. That would be a great mod for charging cell phone or using GOS with engine or running a small fridge if battery has been upgraded.
Hi Brucey,
I can't find the mod thread for converting power ports to full time power not just when ignition is on. Particurally the cargo area power port. That would be a great mod for charging cell phone or using GOS with engine or running a small fridge if battery has been upgraded.
Are the part numbers listed for the rear sway bar (20451FG020 and 2 of 20464FG020) applicable to the 2015-2019? Or is it only good for the 2010-2014?
(trying to dig through the thread to see, but not seeing confirmation)
Thanks!
Pretty sure it is (retailer link on the first page lists it as 2015-2019)
I like your advise. Thank you! I can imagine its a pretty risky job. The part I have less confidence is the time when the coat life would enter its shedding era....Most people say that OPti gloss is better than opt coat 2.0. just a thought...
I'll do my best to keep it up to date. As I stated though, if I missed anything or if anything new comes up that I miss PLEASE post it or PM me with the links and I will be sure to add them to the first post!!
4 Piece Wheel Arch Fender. Fit 2015-2018 Subaru. (USA only,Does NOT include Hawaii，Alaska or Puerto Rico, PO Boxes/APO's). Color: Black (As the picture shown). Warranty: Yes. Model: ET-357. Engine Guards.
Are the part numbers listed for the rear sway bar (20451FG020 and 2 of 20464FG020) applicable to the 2015-2019? Or is it only good for the 2010-2014?
(trying to dig through the thread to see, but not seeing confirmation)
Thanks!
Pretty sure it is (retailer link on the first page lists it as 2015-2019)
I modified my previous OB with an accessory circuit manual enable switch. Allowed turning on the accessory circuits (like all the power recepticles) without having to have the key in the ignition. If I get around to doing this on my '18 I'll post info if anyone is interested.
A few years back, in this thread, I posted my attempt at jumping fuse 7 (CIGAR, which is the cig lighter outlet) to a circuit with constant power (best option, IMO, is 28). Well, I didn't put much thought into that, and later discovered it was done incorrectly. So, as a correction, I'm posting my notes from when I sorted it out in case it could be helpful for anyone. I'm also posting a picture of the resulting add-a-circuit arrangement since proper orientation (after identifying the hot side of each fuse in the panel) is critical to insure it's wired correctly.
My wiring includes a second tap (14AWG black wire) which I routed to the center console (cubby) outlet. For that mod, using brute force, I yanked out the old stock outlet and replaced it with a marine-grade outlet rated for more power (15A): Marinco 12VRC Sealink Deluxe Receptacle 12v for sale online | eBay.
A few years back, in this thread, I posted my attempt at jumping fuse 7 (CIGAR, which is the cig lighter outlet) to a circuit with constant power (best option, IMO, is 28). Well, I didn't put much thought into that, and later discovered it was done incorrectly. So, as a correction, I'm posting my notes from when I sorted it out in case it could be helpful for anyone. I'm also posting a picture of the resulting add-a-circuit arrangement since proper orientation (after identifying the hot side of each fuse in the panel) is critical to insure it's wired correctly. View attachment 485375View attachment 485376
My wiring includes a second tap (14AWG black wire) which I routed to the center console (cubby) outlet. For that mod, using brute force, I yanked out the old stock outlet and replaced it with a marine-grade outlet rated for more power (15A): Marinco 12VRC Sealink Deluxe Receptacle 12v for sale online | eBay.
Glad to hear you found the mistake without burning up a wire. Someday I would like to get around to doing this myself, but I haven't prioritized it yet. But, I'm more interested in making the outlet in the cargo area constantly hot. Does that outlet share the same circuit as the console/cubby outlets? (i.e. if I copy your mod, will it power the rear outlet as well?)
...I'm more interested in making the outlet in the cargo area constantly hot. Does that outlet share the same circuit as the console/cubby outlets? (i.e. if I copy your mod, will it power the rear outlet as well?)
No, both the console (cubby) and cargo outlets share the 20A fuse above (12V SOCKET). Since it's in the same column, I believe you could just shift the top connector up one position (from fuse 7 to fuse 2), but I would still confirm with a meter. My cubby outlet is now completely disconnected from the 12V SOCKET circuit, so my cargo area outlet remains switched. I think my original mistake resulted in power from fuse 7 backfeeding into all the 12V outlets (i.e., they all turned to constant power even though I only jumped to fuse 7). I lived with that arrangement for a year or 2 with no adverse affects that I'm aware of.
A few years back, in this thread, I posted my attempt at jumping fuse 7 (CIGAR, which is the cig lighter outlet) to a circuit with constant power (best option, IMO, is 28). Well, I didn't put much thought into that, and later discovered it was done incorrectly. So, as a correction, I'm posting my notes from when I sorted it out in case it could be helpful for anyone. I'm also posting a picture of the resulting add-a-circuit arrangement since proper orientation (after identifying the hot side of each fuse in the panel) is critical to insure it's wired correctly. View attachment 485375View attachment 485376
My wiring includes a second tap (14AWG black wire) which I routed to the center console (cubby) outlet. For that mod, using brute force, I yanked out the old stock outlet and replaced it with a marine-grade outlet rated for more power (15A): Marinco 12VRC Sealink Deluxe Receptacle 12v for sale online | eBay.
So for clarification:
-The left fuseholder is hot on the right side of it, load on the left side of it.
-The right fuseholder is hot on the left side of it, load on the right side of it.
Is that correct?
Random aside: For your lighter sockets and similar needs I found these guys:
www.qsradio.com
