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2001 Outback Wagon 2.5i 188,000 miles
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Discussion Starter #1
I took my 2001 2.5 to an independent mechanic to diagnose a loud "clunk" going from park to reverse, (mostly when starting cold). The noise comes from the rear. (IMO). His tech said the motor mounts are shot.

1. The engine was out 2 yeas ago at the dealer to do the headgaskets, and they also replaced 1 cracked motor mount.

2. Does the engine need to be completely out to replace the motor mounts?

Also, what could be the source of the clunking noise from the rear?
 

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I simply cannot abide useless people.
2006 2.5i and 2002 3.0 wagons.
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2016 3.6 Limited with ES
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I'm sure traildog will be along shortly...
 

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95 Legacy EJ22 5MT, 98 Legacy EJ22 5MT, 99 Legacy Outback EJ25 4EAT "Agent 99", 01 Forester EJ25 4EAT
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2. Does the engine need to be completely out to replace the motor mounts?
I don't think so - it's easy to lift the motor a couple of inches without unbolting anything except that little strut from the firewall to the top of the transmission, and that should give you more than enough room to replace a mount.
 

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2001 Outback Wagon 2.5i 188,000 miles
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Discussion Starter #6
I don't think so - it's easy to lift the motor a couple of inches without unbolting anything except that little strut from the firewall to the top of the transmission, and that should give you more than enough room to replace a mount.
This confirms that I thought the guy was out of his mind when he started to describe disconnecting every hose, wire, line etc... and on and on.

Anyway. I told him top off the fluids and I will pick it up.

I guess I will dust off the jack stands, and try to save a couple thousand $. :nerd:
 

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95 Legacy EJ22 5MT, 98 Legacy EJ22 5MT, 99 Legacy Outback EJ25 4EAT "Agent 99", 01 Forester EJ25 4EAT
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This confirms that I thought the guy was out of his mind when he started to describe disconnecting every hose, wire, line etc... and on and on.
Non-specialist mechanics can be really dimwitted sometimes. Last summer I met an older woman at a volunteer gig; a couple of us were talking cars and she mentioned she had a Forester she thought was headed to the wrecker because a local mechanic told her it was going to be a money pit. She said it just wouldn't run right no matter who did what. I popped over for a look, told her to pick up a set of NGK plugs (there was something else in there) and a tube of dielectric grease and I'd come by again in a few days. It's been running perfectly since.

Robert DeNiro has what's probably my all-time favourite movie line in Wag the Dog:

"Nice enough people. They just haven't thought it all the way through."
 
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2005 XT, Mildly Modified...2006 XT Limited, Highly Modifed
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95 Legacy EJ22 5MT, 98 Legacy EJ22 5MT, 99 Legacy Outback EJ25 4EAT "Agent 99", 01 Forester EJ25 4EAT
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I guess I will dust off the jack stands, and try to save a couple thousand $.
Goes without saying, but I'll say it anyway: Should be fine, but keep your eyes open for anything that's getting stretched as you raise it. I just replaced the motor in my '02 Forester, and when I thought I had everything disconnected I'd missed the transmission cooler tubes that had been bolted to the bottom of the head. Really dumb: Hard tubes from the transmission, to hoses, to the tubes attached to the head, to hoses to the radiator. So I was hoisting away and bent the head-attached tubes all to [email protected]!t.

You've only got to come up a couple of inches (and I think all that's connected at the front of the engine is the rad hoses - AC as well, but those hoses have more slack) but watch closely anyway.
 

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2000 Subaru Outback Limited Sedan, 2.5L
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Outinthewoods hit the nail on the head; keep a close watch on everything while jacking the engine. I just completed a head gasket job on my 2000 Legacy Outback. There's plenty of room to jack both the tranny and the engine, but in my case there were a lot of things disconnected. The link on top of the tranny is a must. The engine needs to be lifted a few inches for the mount bolts to clear the frame. A actually eye-balled the mounts and considered possibly removing them before pulling the engine completely out, but changed my mind. The attach bolts on the mounts looked like they were fairly easy to access. I'd be nervous about the radiator hoses, tranny hoses to the radiator, A/C hoses (they're rigid). Do a search on YouTube; there's a lot of good videos out there for almost any Suby job you can imagine.
 
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