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Was a 2016 Outback 2.5i Premium, then a 2013 Outback 3.6R Limited, now a 2013 Outback 2.5i Limited
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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Thanks- I am going to try replacing the spark plugs this weekend which according to the video I watched requires removing the battery anyway. Since I don’t have any history on this car I have no idea whether the plugs have ever been replaced so maybe that will help. Also might as well try a throttle body cleaning and an idle relearn while I’m at it- that same guy posting these videos on YouTube did that on one of his vehicles which helped fix a shifting / stalling issue. I’ll take it for another test drive after doing all this and see if that helps any.
 

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Was a 2016 Outback 2.5i Premium, then a 2013 Outback 3.6R Limited, now a 2013 Outback 2.5i Limited
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
No joke-- that is actually the only thing I KNOW was changed by the dealership I bought it from, because the glove box was apart and the Fram box was lying there! LOL
 

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Was a 2016 Outback 2.5i Premium, then a 2013 Outback 3.6R Limited, now a 2013 Outback 2.5i Limited
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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Update to this thread- tried replacing the plugs this morning, following the youtube video, quite a bit more difficult than he lets on, especially those last two plugs, really thought I was up the creek until a neighbor more versed in car repair than I came over and helped. Don't let that video fool you into thinking it's easy to replace plugs in these cars- coming from Hondas those were much easier- even the couple of 6 cylinders I had.
Replacing the plugs did not solve the early/erratic shifting issue. Still shifts way too early accelerating from a stop once the engine is warmed up. So that's 0-2 doing a drain and fill and spark plug change. I guess these 5EAT trannies are just going to have a less refined performance than the Hondas I was used to, esp. after doing a little more research & finding out they were manufactured by Jatco which has a horrible reputation for transmissions (like they also made the CVTs for Nissan.) I , well I'll report back if anything changes.
 

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2011 Outback 3.6 Camellia Red Metallic, 2002 H6 Outback wagon VDC + 2001 2.5 VDC
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My 3.6 was a bit lazy when I got it.. it's been driven with spirit and it's always in sport mode... I tested extensively in "intelligent (dumb)" mode and Sport, no mpg difference for me and a nicer drive..
Occasionally I have put it back in "I" and that lasts about 5 minutes as it's just inadequate..

I have done the atf drop and refill 3 times with some miles in between, the change has been a lot smoother..
 

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2011 Outback 3.6R Limited 2013 Crosstrek (traded) 2020 Outback premium pkg11
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What was the condition of the trans fluid that was removed? The filter is easy although it does require dropping and resealing the pan. I can't say my symptoms were the same that you are having but I've done two filters two whole fluid changes and two drain/fills in total on my transmission and its performance has improved quite a bit.
 

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Was a 2016 Outback 2.5i Premium, then a 2013 Outback 3.6R Limited, now a 2013 Outback 2.5i Limited
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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
I've done 3 drain and fills total- one a week ago, one this past Saturday, and a 3rd just about an hour ago, hoping that I would notice any difference. You all keep telling me drain and fills "improves the performance" of your transmission but you don't say how, or what the problem you had was to begin with. I'll ask it again- what does ATF fluid have to do with the point at which the transmission shifts, or "gear hunting??" I bring that last one up because I could have been killed getting on the interstate this afternoon trying to merge- got on, traffic in the right hand lane in front of me was slow so I moved over to the next lane with a semi coming speeding up in it, hit the gas, and the transmission went "huh?" and WOULD NOT SELECT A LOWER GEAR FOR 2-3 SECONDS. And when it did, it was too low a gear and just revved the engine, FINALLY selected the next gear up and went, but by then the semi had to change lanes. I have no idea whether that had anything to do with the torque converter locking and then unlocking or whatever and frankly I don't care, that's a horrible way to design a transmission. Up until now, the transmission performance has just been a nuisance, but now I am downright angry. So, stopped by the dealer once again, grabbed some ATF fluid, and just did another change, just took it for a spin and NO CHANGE. It has been a COMPLETE waste of money, but more than I don't understand why everyone keeps insisting on ignoring both my question about how exactly fresh ATF is supposed to help my particular problem, as well as the others on this board with similar symptoms who were only able to solve their issues with a reprogramming?? I was willing tp try to learn to put up with it but what happened today makes me livid.
 

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Was a 2016 Outback 2.5i Premium, then a 2013 Outback 3.6R Limited, now a 2013 Outback 2.5i Limited
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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I will add that when I finally got home and shut the car off and got out, I could smell a faint burning smell that I had never smelled before- if that's ATF fluid then Subaru ought to be completely ashamed and embarrassed that all their transmissions seem to be utter trash.
 

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Outback 2011 3.6R Premium (sold Jan 22)
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I will add that when I finally got home and shut the car off and got out, I could smell a faint burning smell that I had never smelled before- if that's ATF fluid then Subaru ought to be completely ashamed and embarrassed that all their transmissions seem to be utter trash.
I think you are at the point where forum members are unable to help you.

My suggestion is to take your vehicle to a Subaru dealer or well regarded independent Subaru workshop and pay them to diagnose the actual problem with your vehicle. These workshops have access to the correct systems to monitor auto transmission function including internal fluid pressures, valve body solenoid function etc.

In an earlier post I suggested you change the transmission fluid to see if it resolved your problem as this is a cost effective way you can determine whether the fluid is the cause and it is something you can easily do yourself.

Hope this helps,

Seagrass
 

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2010 Outback 3.6R 2014 Legacy 2.5i
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new fluid makes the e5at shift smoother and will help alleviate jerks on downshifts as you are coming to a stop.... I have 165k on mine, still runs great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
new fluid makes the e5at shift smoother and will help alleviate jerks on downshifts as you are coming to a stop.... I have 165k on mine, still runs great.
So you're saying it would have absolutely nothing to do with solving MY particular issue- gotcha. I tried to explain this point days ago.
 

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2011 Outback 3.6R Limited 2013 Crosstrek (traded) 2020 Outback premium pkg11
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My issues were lazy shifting, inability to hold gears(early shifting) and a random intermittent rpm drop with a thud feeling. All symptoms remedied through a series of fluid AND filter changes. When fluids break down their shear point causes them to be ineffective here's a link to a good read that explains that and why several people recommended that you change your fluid. Shear Stability and Viscosity Loss
It seems as though your transmission is beyond just having a fluid breakdown problem and you likely have a mechanical failure. Now you'll need to have a qualified technician do advanced diagnostics on your transmission to determine what needs to be replaced through a series of complex procedures.
 

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Banned
Was a 2016 Outback 2.5i Premium, then a 2013 Outback 3.6R Limited, now a 2013 Outback 2.5i Limited
Joined
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219 Posts
Discussion Starter · #34 ·
My issues were lazy shifting, inability to hold gears(early shifting) and a random intermittent rpm drop with a thud feeling. All symptoms remedied through a series of fluid AND filter changes. When fluids break down their shear point causes them to be ineffective here's a link to a good read that explains that and why several people recommended that you change your fluid. Shear Stability and Viscosity Loss
It seems as though your transmission is beyond just having a fluid breakdown problem and you likely have a mechanical failure. Now you'll need to have a qualified technician do advanced diagnostics on your transmission to determine what needs to be replaced through a series of complex procedures.

Nope. Not about to spend upwards of $1000 to MAYBE have this issue "diagnosed" and "fixed" when what it really is is poor design and programming. And when you say a "series" of fluid and FILTER changes, just how many did you have to go through before it was remedied? Removing and rebonding the transmission drain pan several times to change the filter out several times is ridiculous for a car with only 120k on it.
 

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Super Moderator
Outback 2011 3.6R Premium (sold Jan 22)
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Let me try and write something simply and respectfully.

You came to this forum eleven days ago advising us you knew very little about Subarus and that you were used to your previous Hondas and how they operated. You share a problem with forum members and asked for advice from anyone who had a similar experience. Forum members, including myself, responded with their first hand experience and resolutions and encouraged you to consider this may also be the cause of your problems.

You continued to research your problem and became somewhat fixated on a solution of “reprogramming the TCU”. You were encouraged to try the simple things first, which it appears you did reluctantly.

When the advice of forum members did not resolve your problems you subsequently became agitated and now in post 32 you seem to be angry.

All this time no one has forced you to do anything and in good faith, forum members were sharing their resolutions to symptoms you outlined in your original and subsequent posts.

I respectfully suggest you not request advice from Internet forums if you cannot “own” your decisions.

This thread is now being closed

Seagrass
 
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