I'm halfway through my timing belt replacement (currently 103k), and here are some thoughts.
I'm doing a few "while I'm there things" such as replacing the leaking valve cover gaskets and checking the valve clearance. So far I have only done the passenger side rockers, but 3 rockers were ~.001" out of tolerance. I believe they were the #1 front intake, front exhaust, and #3 front intake. Based on my experience I suggest everyone checks their clearances during the timing belt replacement.
So far, the only problem I've run into is that I didn't realize the injectors needed to be removed to remove the valve covers. Now I have to wait for the injector o-rings to come in. Which, by the way, the ones that are on it right now aren't in good shape. The #3 injector leaked fuel simply by pressing on the fuel rail.
The spark plug tube gaskets were hard as a rock, no wonder they leaked oil. I'm replacing these gaskets with Felpro brand. I figure it can't hurt anything considering the stock gaskets are a POS anyway.
Oh, and the 105k replacement interval? Subaru should probably drop it down, considering that my belt has a couple of damaged teeth.
Maybe the Gates timing belt will weather better than the Mitsuboshi.
I've had a pretty expensive past 10k miles, considering I just replaced the clutch and flywheel due to a squealing release bearing and worn clutch (that could be due to the PO driving habits though).
Anyways, enough ranting. Here is some helpful information. I don't have the crank pulley removal tool, so I devised my own method. I don't like the starter bump method, it seems like a disaster waiting to happen. I don't like using a band/chain wrench, as that's a great way to destroy the rubber isolation layer in the pulley.
So here is my method:
Required items:
1.Pipe wrench
2. Two 3/8" extensions
3. Extension device so pipe wrench handle can reach frame of car. In my case I used, yes, a hitch ball mount....
I'm doing a few "while I'm there things" such as replacing the leaking valve cover gaskets and checking the valve clearance. So far I have only done the passenger side rockers, but 3 rockers were ~.001" out of tolerance. I believe they were the #1 front intake, front exhaust, and #3 front intake. Based on my experience I suggest everyone checks their clearances during the timing belt replacement.
So far, the only problem I've run into is that I didn't realize the injectors needed to be removed to remove the valve covers. Now I have to wait for the injector o-rings to come in. Which, by the way, the ones that are on it right now aren't in good shape. The #3 injector leaked fuel simply by pressing on the fuel rail.
The spark plug tube gaskets were hard as a rock, no wonder they leaked oil. I'm replacing these gaskets with Felpro brand. I figure it can't hurt anything considering the stock gaskets are a POS anyway.
Oh, and the 105k replacement interval? Subaru should probably drop it down, considering that my belt has a couple of damaged teeth.
I've had a pretty expensive past 10k miles, considering I just replaced the clutch and flywheel due to a squealing release bearing and worn clutch (that could be due to the PO driving habits though).
Anyways, enough ranting. Here is some helpful information. I don't have the crank pulley removal tool, so I devised my own method. I don't like the starter bump method, it seems like a disaster waiting to happen. I don't like using a band/chain wrench, as that's a great way to destroy the rubber isolation layer in the pulley.
So here is my method:
Required items:
1.Pipe wrench
2. Two 3/8" extensions
3. Extension device so pipe wrench handle can reach frame of car. In my case I used, yes, a hitch ball mount....
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