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2006 Outback 2.5i Limited 5MT, 1984 Porsche 944
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276 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'm halfway through my timing belt replacement (currently 103k), and here are some thoughts.

I'm doing a few "while I'm there things" such as replacing the leaking valve cover gaskets and checking the valve clearance. So far I have only done the passenger side rockers, but 3 rockers were ~.001" out of tolerance. I believe they were the #1 front intake, front exhaust, and #3 front intake. Based on my experience I suggest everyone checks their clearances during the timing belt replacement.

So far, the only problem I've run into is that I didn't realize the injectors needed to be removed to remove the valve covers. Now I have to wait for the injector o-rings to come in. Which, by the way, the ones that are on it right now aren't in good shape. The #3 injector leaked fuel simply by pressing on the fuel rail.

The spark plug tube gaskets were hard as a rock, no wonder they leaked oil. I'm replacing these gaskets with Felpro brand. I figure it can't hurt anything considering the stock gaskets are a POS anyway.

Oh, and the 105k replacement interval? Subaru should probably drop it down, considering that my belt has a couple of damaged teeth. :rolleyes: Maybe the Gates timing belt will weather better than the Mitsuboshi.

I've had a pretty expensive past 10k miles, considering I just replaced the clutch and flywheel due to a squealing release bearing and worn clutch (that could be due to the PO driving habits though).


Anyways, enough ranting. Here is some helpful information. I don't have the crank pulley removal tool, so I devised my own method. I don't like the starter bump method, it seems like a disaster waiting to happen. I don't like using a band/chain wrench, as that's a great way to destroy the rubber isolation layer in the pulley.

So here is my method:

Required items:
1.Pipe wrench
2. Two 3/8" extensions
3. Extension device so pipe wrench handle can reach frame of car. In my case I used, yes, a hitch ball mount....
 

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Registered
2008 Subaru Outback PZEV,2010 Impreza 2.5i
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538 Posts
I've had a pretty expensive past 10k miles, considering I just replaced the clutch and flywheel due to a squealing release bearing and worn clutch (that could be due to the PO driving habits though).
My clutch release bearing (or through out bearing) did squeal at just below 70K miles and I had to replace entire clutch despite the fact that my clutch had a significant life. I read on different forums that Subaru release bearing would be the weakest link in the entire clutch assembly that would fail pretty often.
 

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OBW H6 VDC, Tribeca, XT6
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12,385 Posts
that's awesome!!! you deserve an award or something for that pipe wrench trick, that's one of my favorites in a long time! well done.

fuel injectors spraying when you press on them is actually common/normal. but i can see wanting new ones in there. i've always been amazed at how valve cover gaskets (and spark plug tube gaskets) leak so often/so bad. they can design a gasket to withold internal combustion and crazy physics...but the lame valve cover they can't?

manual transmissions are maintenance suckers, that's just the way it is, they'll need work before 200,000 miles usually.
 

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2006 Outback 2.5i Limited 5MT, 1984 Porsche 944
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276 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Grrr....Valve cover bolt head is stripping while trying to remove it. Rear bottom driver side. You know, the one that's right against the subframe so you can't touch it with a ratchet.

I'll go to the hardware store tomorrow and buy a 6pt wrench. If that doesn't work, I guess I'll hack at it with vice grips.
 

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2006 Outback 2.5i Limited 5MT, 1984 Porsche 944
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276 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I unbolted the engine from the subframe and raised the engine enough to access the bolt with my socket bolt extractor. Worked great.


3 of the driver side exhaust valves were about .001" out of tolerance-tight. Might explain why some people have reported burned exhaust valves.

Intake valves were fine.
 
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