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I have a 2005 outback 3.0r. I recently did a new rad and thermostat because the rad cracked. Was haveing issues burping the system so took it to my local Subaru dealership to have them purge the system and they did and all was good until I drove the car an it was just pushing coolant through the overflow tank. So took it back and they performed a pressure test and a sniff test for exhaust gasses in the coolant and for a head gasket problem and both came back clear. But they are saying it’s internal head gasket issue and those tests will not pick up on that. My thinking is exhaust gasses that’s is pushing coolant means it is in the coolant and the sniff test should have found that?! Saying that the car now needs head gaskets. I’m wondering if there is any possible other culprit to my problem? Any and all help is much appreciated. Thankyou in advanced!!
 

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are the gases dirty, or smell to you like exhaust?

it is possible if the gases are clean, it could be exhaust, or you have a porous coolant line sucking fresh air and it appears in the coolant.

....or you got a cooling problem and coolant is just plain boiling.
(air bubble in the system,...pinched line, water pump not spinning right, thermostat in backwards....)

does the new rad have a OEM cap? aftermarket caps that are too tight will make the coolant boil.

is the thermostat OEM?


________

they could also just be itching to do a expensive HG job and H6.

cheaper would be getting a 250hp JDM EZ30 with the plastic intake.
(not the earlier cheaper older 212hp EZ30 witht he metal intake).
the 250hp one should cost $1200-1500 or so. drops in with a little bit of added line for the brake booster.
 

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Very important questions:

-Brand of radiator cap? Needs to be Subaru.
-Brand of tstat? Needs to be Subaru or Stant's Xact line ONLY.
-How well was they system burped? They can hold bloody air pockets for quite a time it seems.
 

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Everything’s subaru oem. Yes it got hot once it pushed enough coolant out the overflow. And the motor is the 250 hp ez30 with the plastic intake. If the hose were to be bad would the pressure test not have picked that up? The coolant is not discolored at all but I cannot smell anything over the power of the smell of coolant.
 

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Somewhere somehow it is pulling air/gasses in and only pushing coolant through the overflow does not seem to be pushing out anywhere else.
 

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If it were to just be a pain in the rear air bubble would it continue to push coolant through the over flow?
 

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A couple of cheap tests:
Disconnect the overflow line at the radiator cap and use a turkey baster to see if you can suck coolant from the reservoir. If the end of the hose is good and you don't see bubbles as you suck the fluid, you are probably OK with that.

Next
Look at a loaner pressure test kit from an auto parts store. Autozone has a good one but the deposit is $260 although you get it all back when you return it. I don't know if the new expensive one tests radiator caps but the old $60 version did. If your radiator cap can't hold pressure, it will cause the coolant to go into the reservoir but worse, it drops the pressure in the cooling system which will drastically lower the boiling point of the coolant.

You can also just get a new cap and see if it makes a difference.

You are keeping an eye on the temperature all the time right?

You could also drive around until the system is at normal operating temperatures, then drive on the highway for a while. Get off the highway, stop the car with the engine running and see if the fans come on. They ought to. You can also turn on the A/C to see if the fans come on.

Usually an air pocket will burp itself out and not push any more coolant into the reservoir. With multiple cycles, enough air will get dumped past the radiator cap and coolant will get sucked back in from the reservoir leaving nothing but fluid in the system.

You can also get a free loaner exhaust test kit at an auto parts store. You run the engine for a while, then pour a little blue liquid into the bottom of a 1-way "turkey baster" and suck air from above the radiator cap. If the liquid turns yellow, there is exhaust gas in the cooling system. Don't suck any coolant into the fluid or it will immediately turn yellow and give you a false positive.

 

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Everything’s subaru oem. Yes it got hot once it pushed enough coolant out the overflow. And the motor is the 250 hp ez30 with the plastic intake. If the hose were to be bad would the pressure test not have picked that up? The coolant is not discolored at all but I cannot smell anything over the power of the smell of coolant.
moved thread updated title
 

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Questions related to this that many owners will want to know the answer to:



What is the best way to 'burp' these motors?


Where in the engine is an air pocket most likely to be?
 

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Questions related to this that many owners will want to know the answer to:



What is the best way to 'burp' these motors?


Where in the engine is an air pocket most likely to be?
bubbles get trapped in the heater core. (high on the cooling system).

get the rad neck higher then the heater core. (park it on a grade, or up on ramps)

open cold rad neck, lock on a funnel to the rad neck and start it up. let the car run and warm to regular operating temp.

watch for bubbles coming out. ...if they keep forming when the engine is hot, you got a leak of fresh air getting in,..

..or the headgaskets are letting exhaust gases get in. (EZ30 do this when they have a HG problem. ...not typical of EJ251/EJ253).



If someone does not have a funnel that screw locks to the rad neck. a old soda pop or milk bottle can do, ...just cut the bottom out of it and when everything is perfectly dry tape it on. (important as the heated rad fluid will come up into the funnel).

20 minutes - half a hour of time.


I have this lisle branded funnel, and one of the nice things about such a big one: it helps you neatly put the coolant in without getting air in from you simply pouring it in.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A6AS6LY/

AWDauto of Seattle made a video on the use of one. (plenty more out there, but these guys are a indie subaru shop).

 

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Thanks! And i just ordered the funnel - should make the job a lot easier! :)


Do I assume correctly that the procedure would be the same for the EJ251/253 motors?
 

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Thanks! And i just ordered the funnel - should make the job a lot easier! :)


Do I assume correctly that the procedure would be the same for the EJ251/253 motors?
same,


other videos show the correct way to hold a regular store bought coolant bottle to not make it "glug, glug" air in. sideways.
 

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Anytime a Subaru overheats, it needs to be checked for HG seepage. Best done with a funnel on the radiator and watching it. When it comes up to temperature, thermostat open or not, if the HG has failed it will bubble up. You won't always smell fumes. The exhaust test kits won't always pick it up either. Most times, yes, but not always. H6 HG fails are predominantly bank 1, furthest from the thermostat.

Pressure testing the coolant system will show you a leak on a hose, radiator or heater core. With the HG, it may not show up until after the engine is warmed up and expanded. I have post all over this forum with video of an H6 HG, so instead of reposting the video, here's where I posted this morning http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...mittent-overheating-misfires.html#post5587833

Eagleeye, Maybe we could change the Head Gasket Issues in Prob/Maint to include Head Gasket Issues and Overheating. Start combining posts that fall in to this category to keep things easy to find. I'm seeing a lot of overheating lately.
 

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Has anyone here tried adding in one of these heater hose ports? There are (or used to be) available version that have a screw-on cap.
 

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