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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just clipped the plastic rip ties off my Barbed Tees from Company23, after I have noticed more CE lights with code P0420. The lines were loose. I replaced with steel clamps, but the line going towards the front end of the car became disconnected, and I can't see where to connect it... (middle barb)

I have the vacuum routing chart from a previous thread, but I can't zoom in clearly to see where it goes.

If anyone knows, please let me know!

I do find it strange that the middle barb tee and the front barb tee became disconnected so easily, and there doesn't seem to be a way to clamp these up.
 

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Master Caster
馃枻馃挃馃挋 3 Beautiful OBXTs
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I just clipped the plastic rip ties off my Barbed Tees from Company23, after I have noticed more CE lights with code P0420. The lines were loose. I replaced with steel clamps, but the line going towards the front end of the car became disconnected, and I can't see where to connect it... (middle barb)

I have the vacuum routing chart from a previous thread, but I can't zoom in clearly to see where it goes.

If anyone knows, please let me know!

I do find it strange that the middle barb tee and the front barb tee became disconnected so easily, and there doesn't seem to be a way to clamp these up.
Can you take a picture of the line in the engine bay, I know these cars really well, I I am not following you on which line. Take a picture and I can tell you where it goes. BTW, a used XT needs to have all of these lines micro clamped, double zip-tied, or replaced. They get hard, and this time of year they can pop off very easily even from boost.
 

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Okay, I found it. Is the black plastic thing on top something I could pull off? if so, it would make easier to tighten down the hoses, and even replace a few of the hardened hoses.
Are you talking the (4) leg runner, the intake plenum? Sure that comes off, but it's a pain. However, its possible to get to everything without doing so. Pull the alternator and also the the bracket off to the left of the alternator (looking at it) that holds the boost, map and purge sensors. One a few things are loos and out of the way, the you can get to just about everything. There is a reducer in the line off the boost controller that runs under it and goes to the t-at the wastegate and turbo. Often the ends at the turbo and WG just need a trim and that reducer connection is usually tight.

Think of that diagram as guide. You can move things or change runs. Just as long as you retain what the lines connect to, and the junctions. I have re-plumbed both of my cars and my new routes are often simpler to access.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Are you talking the (4) leg runner, the intake plenum? Sure that comes off, but it's a pain. However, its possible to get to everything without doing so. Pull the alternator and also the the bracket off to the left of the alternator (looking at it) that holds the boost, map and purge sensors. One a few things are loos and out of the way, the you can get to just about everything. There is a reducer in the line off the boost controller that runs under it and goes to the t-at the wastegate and turbo. Often the ends at the turbo and WG just need a trim and that reducer connection is usually tight.

Think of that diagram as guide. You can move things or change runs. Just as long as you retain what the lines connect to, and the junctions. I have re-plumbed both of my cars and my new routes are often simpler to access.
Thanks, That's very helpful to know! We are driving to PA tomorrow, wont have time to do anything before then... but it'll be my next project after Christmas.
 

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You probably don't need to take the whole intake off if you've already removed the TMIC. As @traildogck said, just remove the alternator and you can get to 90% of what you need.

I've marked up a picture of my hoses with annotations in similar colors to the diagram. I took this picture with my alternator removed. I do have aftermarket stuff, but for the most part, the hoses go to the same place.

My guess is you want to go ahead and replace all the hoses. My MAP sensor hose was hard as a rock and literally broke in half when I removed it the first time. For the line that the Company 23 Tee connects to: one side goes to the BOV on TMIC, the other side goes to the back of the intake manifold and the T leg hose goes to the top part of the 3-way purge valve.
 

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I buy 1/4" to 1/2" in the plumbing section at home depot. The get most anything, and they can be trimmed for length.

They are screw type worm clamps. Anything smaller, go to Ace hardware and you can get smaller spring clamps. (an assortment) Double zip-ties are a good solution also.
 

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Meant to ask, what type of hose will I need to use to replace some of these vacuum lines? I'm holding off till it warms up a bit. Guessing 1/4 hose; but fuel line? or what?
You need to check the bar/psi rating on the side of the line. Since an XT will pull 18 psi in vacuum and say 14-16 psi in boost. The line needs to be able to handle that.

Depending on line, sometimes I have clamped on fuel injection line since it was the only rated line I could find at AutoZone.
 

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It is 1/4" line though isn't it?
It depends. 1/8' in some spots, 3/16" in others, 1/4"

If you want something molded with an elbow, you need to pic though some of the rack rad/molded hose sections and get creative. I have often gotten (3) sections off of one donor hose off a Topaz of something stupid.

Anything that will take rad, oil or trans pressure will handle intake pressures.
 
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