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2005 Outback, 2.5 L
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Discussion Starter #1
So- like a dumbass, I burnt my clutch trying to pull someone from a snowbank over the weekend (yes- I know I am an idiot). My whole car smells, but for now, it drives. I need to do the clutch soon, before it totally gives.

I am away from my home garage and up in Southern Vermont right now. I am looking for someone that either

a)has a shop/garage I could work out of with tools (I will rent it from ya)

or

b) does Subaru's on the side and can cut a break on price (I will help you do the job and buy parts, beer, etc)

or

c) has any pointers on a first time clutch job so I can try to get it done.


My mechanic is quoting around 2k for clutch and head gaskets (because the engine will be out and they haven't been done before). I don't have the finances to swing that right now. Any tips/help with the job would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
 

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02 Pair: 3.0 VDC Wag & 2.5 Limited Sedan
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Not sure- it is driving fine right now so hopefully it lasts a bit longer
might last a couple more months, but start to slip in high gears at some random time, ....and then you got days.

but no spinning or joy riding anymore, or you will be on your last days.


(on the last days, save a little before you got nothing,...as with "nothing" it makes it harder to get it up on a uhaul trailer behind a uhaul pickup, or roll it around a driveway under its own power into a garage for fixing.).
 

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'03 outback limited, '01 Outback Limited, '01 Legacy L wagon, '96 Legacy Brighton wagon
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In the meantime, limit how hard you accelerate - the more load you put on the clutch, the sooner it will start to slip. Also, if it is even possible with these transmissions, learn how to shift without using the clutch - you'll still need it to get going, of course, but once rolling, it should be just a simple matter of backing off the gas slightly, slip the shifter into neutral, match revs, and slip into the next gear. Not hard at all to do once you figure it out.

Had a 2002Tii in college that the clutch started to slip under hard acceleration. with the usual zero available car repair funds of a college guy on scholorship, I started doing the above, and it lasted another 9 months of Boston traffic and commutes up to Maine every weekend.
 

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Yeah bend your linkage and break teeth on your gears by umm used ng it incorrectly ie forcing a shift without the clutch. The brilliance of a idiot.

Limit slipping the clutch to a minimum and just go. Clutch smell has zero to do with life left. All manuals start to slip in taller gears like 3rd when the clutch as little to no pad left.
 

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2014 3.6R Limited
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It is actually very easy to do! I had a situation where I screwed up my pressure plate and could not disengage the clutch! I probably drove it for 3 months like that. If I had to stop I would turn of the car and start it in 1st gear and off I went!

I can't imagine anyone would pull on their shifter grinding gears hard enough to do this kindda damage!

The only time I ever used a clutch in an 18 wheeler is to start off from a stop! Probably got over a million miles under my belt and never had an issue with any transmission!

Yeah bend your linkage and break teeth on your gears by umm used ng it incorrectly ie forcing a shift without the clutch. The brilliance of a idiot.
 

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2019 Subaru Forester Premium, Crystal Black Silica, Pkg 15
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If you're going to replace the HG's, you may want to consider "Six Star Head Gaskets" - they're pretty highly reviewed considering the original equipment had some design issues. I think I read an article over on allwheeldriveauto about them.
 

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Yeah bend your linkage and break teeth on your gears by umm used ng it incorrectly ie forcing a shift without the clutch. The brilliance of a idiot.
Advice from someone who apparently has no clue how a transmission works.

The main difference between a racing trans and a street trans is syncros - the racing tranny doesn't have them. In both types, the gears are always engaged with each other, and what is being engaged are dogs in the racing version, and the teeth of the syncros in the street version. BOTH will engage smoothly with no grinding when you match the revs correctly - racers never use the clutch once the car is moving, and the dogs will last for thousands of shifts for the guys who do it well - it gets even easier with sequential transmissions equipped with a momentary ignition cut out - you never lift off the throttle, and the shifts are blindingly fast, while easy on the dogs.

On the street trannys, when the revs are matched, the gear lever will slip into place very easily with little effort, and zero drama to the syncros - just back off the throttle slightly to let the engine drop it revs to the revs necessary for the next gear while slipping the lever into neutral, then maintain a little pressure on it, and when you have matched the revs, it will slip right in to the nest gear with zero drama.
 

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Advice from someone who apparently has no clue how a transmission works.

The main difference between a racing trans and a street trans is syncros - the racing tranny doesn't have them. In both types, the gears are always engaged with each other, and what is being engaged are dogs in the racing version, and the teeth of the syncros in the street version. BOTH will engage smoothly with no grinding when you match the revs correctly - racers never use the clutch once the car is moving, and the dogs will last for thousands of shifts for the guys who do it well - it gets even easier with sequential transmissions equipped with a momentary ignition cut out - you never lift off the throttle, and the shifts are blindingly fast, while easy on the dogs.

On the street trannys, when the revs are matched, the gear lever will slip into place very easily with little effort, and zero drama to the syncros - just back off the throttle slightly to let the engine drop it revs to the revs necessary for the next gear while slipping the lever into neutral, then maintain a little pressure on it, and when you have matched the revs, it will slip right in to the nest gear with zero drama.
Says a guy who simply needs to brag about BS. If the op thinks burnt clutch smell is automatically a clutch job why are you rambling on about shifting a manual without using a functioning clutch? It is after all there to use. Get over yourself...
 

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'03 outback limited, '01 Outback Limited, '01 Legacy L wagon, '96 Legacy Brighton wagon
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Good lord.

The OP is worried about his clutch and needs to find someone or a place to work on it. In the meantime, he presumably needs to use the car. The advice given to him is 100% valid if he finds that he needs to drive it for a longer period than he would normally be comfortable with.

Get over yourself, yourself.
 

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2005 Outback, 2.5 L
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Discussion Starter #12
Thank you all for your input. I do need to keep driving for the time being and will baby the clutch (hopefully the smell dies down). Fingers crossed it lasts till spring so it is warm when I attempt to fix it.

Thanks!
 

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Good luck with it. With any luck, all you did was get it hot enough to smell bad without damaging the friction linings or the plate surfaces.
 
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