Subaru Outback Forums banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part of September's Outback of the Month Challenge!
1 - 2 of 2 Posts

·
Registered
2002 Subaru Outback H6 3.0L Sedan EZ30Dead - 305K Miles
Joined
·
141 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
2002 Legacy/Outback H6 3.0 VDC

Need the torque spec (ft. lbs) for rear axle nut. Have a pre-pressed complete hub bearing assembly from 1AAuto.com and they haven't listed the specs silly them, just trying to get an approximate and safe torque spec. Rule of thumb?

As well I have an axle nut that's silvery in color, I read that others have questions about this and to get the golden/copper colored one. Is there a difference? Issue being when jabbing a flat head at it to get into the locking groove I want that to be an easy process. They look the same but I'm not sure of the metal type. It is Subaru Genuine direct from Subaru part number 902170049.

1A auto's Hub bearing assembly rear part number: 1ASHR00380

Link:
(2002 Subaru Outback Rear Driver or Passenger Side Pre-Pressed Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly)

510619

510620


Answerer's need not read:

And all this being said I'm sure there will be tons of people happy to know there is in fact a complete hub assembly unit with bearing and spindle pre-pressed together and not separate like stupid Subaru makes, although I have heard that they do come complete I've yet to see evidence of this just a disgruntled subaru parts counter guy saying they're separate, but someone else at another parts counter miles away saying they now come complete due to diy'ers pressing in the bearing too much and damaging them. Food for thought. And, the rear assembly is the same on rear left and right. Fronts are different on each side.

This is for the Rear (not front) Simply taking apart the brake assembly and rotor off, 4 bolts behind the dust shield, dust shield comes off too. Just a hammer and elbow grease and possibly a puller if rusted shut.

The front is stupid. In order to avoid having to press in a bearing you need to take off the entire steering knuckle and get a complete unit with bearing spindle pre-pressed, that has the bearing pressed in on the rear, spindle pressed into the bearing in the front. Stupid design. Got 4-5 things to disconnect for that. Seems stupid at first but, the more parts the less room you have and less thickness and more expensive for designs. The fronts are not universal for left and right like the rear, you need to get the FL and FR parts if you intend on getting the complete knuckle (knuckle, bearing, spindle all pre-pressed), which is available online; (Ebay, others) but again, not Subaru. They're lame
 
1 - 2 of 2 Posts
Top