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Outbacks, SVXs, XT6, 4Runner, Celica, Brat, E150s
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Discussion Starter #1
Picked this up yesterday so I don't have to keep using the XT6 as a winter beater. My 18th Subaru, and 3rd BH Outback.

It's a 2000 Outback, with 311,000 miles on it. Runs well, fairly recent head gasket repair.


20180415_163813 by Numbchux, on Flickr


20180415_163748 by Numbchux, on Flickr

Badly slipping clutch, although still drove it home. Got all the usual rust spots on the rear quarters, and door openings. Even rusting around the roof rail bad enough to leak into the headliner (nope, no sunroof).

Going to slap a clutch in it, and drive it around town. I know the Exedy kits are about $160 online, but I'm really tempted to buy one of those chinese ones on Ebay for $65....I don't expect to use this car for more than about 30k miles max...
 

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OBW H6 VDC, Tribeca, XT6
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huck has owned over 50 i think, he has them all listed and can name them. i've owned a few dozen, i've never thought or cared to keep track and it's steeped in practicality and usefulness, i don't care that much about a car. they're all pieces of metal and materials just in different configurations.
 

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2001 VDC/SC One of a Kind
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12,172 Posts
I don't count the ones bought/sold.

I had a customer one time that had a Legacy wagon that had 365k miles on it an never had a bolt turned on the engine block for anything except thermostat, timing belt, and such.

Good find.
 

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2008 OB Limited 2.5i
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I don't count the ones bought/sold.
I suppose I wouldn't count those bought / sold either. But they have to be listed to count as a record.

I had a customer one time that had a Legacy wagon that had 365k miles on it an never had a bolt turned on the engine block for anything except thermostat, timing belt, and such.
Mine has 125k on it and nothing but routine maintenance on it. And that's counting head gasket replacement as "routine", which is a bit of a stretch.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yep, and while I drove most of those 18 for some time, I think 3 of them came into my life only for parts, and never saw the road in my possession.



Well, I did it. I was looking at the return policy and feedback of the eBay seller with the cheapest clutch kit for this car, and not only is it 100% positive (even people saying they didn't like it, but had a painless return), but there are even a dozen positive reviews of that exact item #. So, this weekend, a terrifyingly cheap (I think it was like $68, shipped) clutch kit will be arriving at my home.


I've got the warranty advisor at work (I work at a Subaru dealership) looking into the rear subframe recall. This car was treated in 2003, but already had 144k on it then, and it's been in MN it's entire existence, so things are looking a little grim. I bet that's what kills this car, unless Subaru will pay for it.....
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Buttoned it up last night, and drove it to work this morning!

Put a new rear main seal in (was clearly leaking) and resealed the separator plate while I had everything apart. Also some new spark plugs.

Terrifyingly cheap eBay clutch had Valeo stamped on the disc, which is encouraging. Also came with the sleeve for the throwout bearing, neat. Drives great, good pedal feel, good engagement, no slipping. Time will tell if it holds up...but I'm quite happy so far!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/CLUTCH-KIT-MITSUKO-OE-REPLACEMENT-FOR-96-12-SUBARU-BAJA-N-T/172658212847?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Brakes feel pretty crappy. Brake and clutch fluid is pretty dark, so step one is to get some new fluid in there, and then I'll go after all the caliper slides.

Also, it has a P1133. Quick google search shows lots of frustrated threads. I printed out the FSM diagnostic for that, and I'll tinker at that. But it runs great, so pretty low priority. Broken exhaust on the VDC is priority #1 now.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
After driving it for a couple days, I started writing a to-do list, so I thought I'd post it.

Change gear oil in trans/rear diff
Change brake/clutch fluid
Clean/grease caliper slide pins
Begin ruling out causes of the P1133
Diagnose my lack of washer functionality (this one's weird, I have fluid, pumps are plugged in, fuses are good, front and rear wipers work, but neither washer does....)
Add aux input to stock radio (I assume this is possible, I've done it on others, haven't looked into this one in particular)
Add exterior temp display. XT6 has one, obviously our 04 VDC has one, I'm adding one to my Celica.
Disable DRL/restore headlights/install quakeworld LEDs like I did in our 04
One-click keyless entry mod...easy
Keyless entry sound? I really miss that from the '03-04
02-04 rear seat for LATCH anchors
2-cupholder center console
clean contacts in cruise switch
Verify functionality/replace bulbs (if possible) in heated mirror/window/seat switches.
Variable intermittent wipers?


Some of this will require more research, junkyard hunting, experimenting, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Changed clutch/brake fluid (well, not completely on the clutch, just used a turkey baster to empty the reservoir).
Checked all caliper slides, all in good shape, and lots of pad life left. So good to have a car that wasn't neglected. Fresh fluid helped with the pedal feel, though.
Got power to both washer pumps, so I bought 2 new pumps. Will put them in tonight.

Did some research on the Aux-in. Found out this isn't the original radio, it's a CD/cassette/weather-band from an '02. Either way, they do have a CD changer input, 16-pin. Found a pinout for it, and it uses BUS communications to change modes and such. I did find a guy that made and programmed a unit for adding iPod input, with control from the deck. Pretty cool, but over my head, and overkill for what I want.

So I ordered a hardwired bypass antenna modulator, should be here Wednesday
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002U5XPBE/



Had them both out in the sun at once, so I took a picture:

20180428_113013 by Numbchux, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Aftermarket washer pumps installed, and work perfectly. Passenger nozzle is clogged, bought a new one, but haven't put it in yet.

Hardwired modulator installed. I wish I'd mounted the jack up higher, as when there's a cord plugged into it, my knee pushes against it while driving. Oh well.
2018-05-03_11-27-52 by Numbchux, on Flickr

Enabled the horn honk with the keyless entry, not a fan of that, either, but better than nothing. Might keep researching if I can retrofit something in there...

Looks like the intermittent wiper control is build into the combination switch. On the diagrams, anyway, they're drawn with the same connector, and the pins do the same things. So, I'm going to see if I can grab a wiper switch from a car with variable intermittent wipers, and swap it.

Did the one-click keyless entry mod. I'm glad I didn't try to do it from memory, or with the same diagrams as the 04. The 04 has to be modded at the BIU on the driver's side, whereas the 00 doesn't have a BIU, it controls the lock motors right from the keyless unit behind/next to the glovebox. Either way, one splice, now they all unlock on the first try.

It's got a bearing noise coming from the rear. Fairly sure it's from the rear diff (which has been leaking from the LH axle seal for some time anyway). I have a 4.111 rear diff in the shed, unfortunately not an LSD, but oh well. Started swapping it last night. Discovered the rear bushings are both torn into 2 pieces. For about $20 (employee discount helps a bit), I could get OE bushings on Tuesday, or for about $60, I could get Torque Solutions Poly ones shipped up here from MAPerformance, also ETA Tuesday. The poly ones should hold up better, and be easier to install, so I'm leaning that direction. Good thing the salt is finally washed off the road so I can drive my Celica!

I'll probably pull the headlights and restore them tonight. I'd also like to replace the upper turn signal socket with a 2-contact one like the lower one, and then put switchback (white as parking lights, change to amber for turn signal) LEDs in them. So I'll look into that.
 

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'03 outback limited, '01 Outback Limited, '01 Legacy L wagon, '96 Legacy Brighton wagon
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You should also do a flushing of the front diff while you are at it - who knows how long ago it was last done.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
You should also do a flushing of the front diff while you are at it - who knows how long ago it was last done.
Manual transmission, front diff uses transmission gear oil. Which looks pretty good on the dip-stick. Fluid in the rear diff was in good shape. That said, still probably should change it before too long...



Well, the Torque Solutions bushings came. MAPerformance showed them in stock, but actually drop-shipped from Pennsylvania. So I got to pay sales tax, and still took 4 days to get them.

Showed up last night, and they're wrong. They look like they're for the bushings for the front mount of the rear diff. I sent them an email, but we'll see. Whiteline makes a set that's definitely for the bushings I need (KDT906) but it's still a one-piece press in bushing. I talked myself into going aftermarket for the simplicity of the 3-piece install (bushing from either side, then a sleeve through them). It's easy enough to hammer the old ones out with an air hammer, but putting them in intact is a bit tougher.

So, I ordered the OE ones, should be here Tuesday. I'll probably add some window-weld to them to firm them up a bit, and call it a day.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
OE bushings arrived last week, and I pressed them in (some C-steel a piece of all-thread and a couple nuts made quick work of it). Clunk is gone.

"New" diff in, noise isn't gone, though. I don't have to worry about it leaking, but that's about it. I should swap a different set of tires on it just to see if it's these old Nokian WRG2s (WRG4s are being phased in now, to give you an idea of the vintage).

Nokian is also replacing the Hakkapeliitta R2 for the R3. I ordered another set of 215/65r16 R2s yesterday for about $75ea. I'll probably put the new ones on my wife's '04 VDC, and the set that we've had on it for the last 2 years on this '00.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Got a center console and wiper switch out of an '03 Bean at the junkyard and swapped those in. Rolled over 315k miles. Parked my Celica for the winter (didn't even make it to October this year......man that sucks) so I'll be putting more miles on this.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
It'll roll over 320k miles next week. I replaced the rear Ujoint in the fall. Hakka R2s went on quite some time ago, noise didn't change.

Finally got bad enough last week that it was clearly changing while turning, and could be identified as coming from the LH rear wheel. OK, time to do a wheel bearing.

I was 90% sure that an '05-'09 Leg/OBK rear hub assembly would work in place of the '00-'04 parts. Subaru offers the '00-'04 bearings both in a flange bearing like originally, or a hub assembly. And I shopped around all my usual aftermarket suppliers.

I decided on an SKF bearing for an '05-'09, extremely reasonably priced on RockAuto. I also had my local dealer/former workplace order all 4 mounting bolts for it. Knowing how many miles/rust is on this car, I wanted to have those on hand (I was doing the project over the weekend, so little hope of finding the correct one before I needed to be back at work on Monday). They turned out to be in good condition, but it was nice to have the replacements ready, and put it together with new bolts.

New Parts:

20181221_191211~01 by Numbchux, on Flickr

Comparison, it's interesting that the flange and bearing housing are noticeably deeper. Hopefully that means more bearing surface....

20181222_062947~01 by Numbchux, on Flickr

I did have a bit of a scare as I was reassembling things. Since the bearing, brake backing plate, and trailing arm all have to be lined up, and then the bolt started in from the back, it's a bit of a bear. I got the one started, and then was fighting with it to get the second one started. I took a step back, and realized that it wasn't going to happen. Turns out this flange is not symmetrical.



Took the first bolt out, flipped it around, and all was well.

Here it is all assembled.

20181222_065509 by Numbchux, on Flickr

Everything else went as expected, some fighting to get the brake shoes and hardware back in place, but that's to be expected. Ride is smooth and quite now!!



I opted not to replace the subframe until next year. So I emptied a couple cans of Fluid Film onto this one before the salt trucks came out to keep it from getting much worse.
 

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With that SKF bearing being made in China, I would return it and get a Japanese brand.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
With that SKF bearing being made in China, I would return it and get a Japanese brand.
BAH. I refer you to the seventh post in this thread where I bought the cheapest Chinese no-name eBay clutch for this car. I'm not spending 4 times more for a wheel bearing (aftermarket listings generally don't list the country of origin when your buying, the only way to 100% get a really high quality bearing is to get OE). I've generally had good luck with aftermarket bearings in my experience in Parts/service.
 

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Back a couple decades ago, we used SKF bearings in our race cars both front and rear ( from a Dasher). Had no problem as long as they were either Italian, German, or Canadian. Finally stopped using them once the only supply was from Brazil - they would last one on-track session and then loosen up terribly ( lose their preload). Had to switch to F A G for a couple years before we changed the upright design.


With everybody here adamant about not using Chinese bearings in a timing belt kit, it is pretty reasonable to also look askance at wheel bearings made in China, even if they are supposedly SKF.


You can do whatever you want - I prefer to replace something only once with known-quality components.
 
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