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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
yesterday after work, my brakes started making a horrible grinding/squeeling noise as I left the parking lot! It sounds like i'll need new front pads or something. The rotors looked decent yet.

Is this typical of a car with only 42,000 miles on it?

I have an appt. today for an oil change, and I'm having them look at my brakes too. I guess we'll wait and see what they say.

Also, do any of you know of any "brake upgrade" I could do on the 2010 2.5i?(slotted rotors, better pads, etc)
I occasionally haul a pop-up camper, and wouldn't mind a better peace of mind.

Thanks for the help.
 

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2010 Outback 3.6R Limited (green)
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(formerly) 03 H6 OBW , (presently) 06 WRX Sportwagon & 2021 Honda CR-V
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unless they are compromised - stock rotors are good stuff. If for some reason they need replacing, I second the Centric recommendation for the majority of us. And I really like my StopTech Street Perf. pads on my WRX. Great value for a pad that seems to have no downside for the street use - but can handle spirited driving and even a track day once in a while. On the wife's OBW, I have Centric PosiQuiet Ceramic pads which seem as good or slightly better than the stock pads were.

Do you have good tires? It can be a false upgrade to spend money on brakes and not upgrade the tires. brakes stop your wheels - tires stop your car.


The noise 'could' be due to a bent dust shield or a pebble caught between the rotor and the shield.
 

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If you do a lot of around town driving or spend each day sitting in traffic you can go through brakes sooner than you may want. Noise can either be a number of things but I doubt it's your pads. Like Texan said it could be the dust shield or debris up against the rotor. I once had a plastic screw up against the rotor of my Flex that made a horrible sound. The dust shield on my wife's Sentra wasn't installed correctly so it made a quiet scraping noise. I'd go with debris if it's loud.
 

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'07 OBXT Ltd. 5EAT, Charcoal Gray; '70 Chevy K10 4X4, 396c.i., lifted; '63 Pontiac Tempest, 326c.i.
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If the rotors can be salvaged, keep them. Go to a shop that has an on-car brake lathe (a machine to resurface the rotors.) If you're a do-it-yourself kind of guy, you can usually find a store that will let you take off the rotors yourself and bring them in. A car store worth their salt will give you "mic" numbers (actual measurements of pads + rotors on a micrometer) in order to let you make the educated decision on what to do. Also, that will tell them whether or not you can turn the rotors or if you have to buy new ones. If they just do a visual inspection, that's generally not enough to sell brakes. Most importantly, make sure that they don't just slap on some new pads without turning the rotors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The noise 'could' be due to a bent dust shield or a pebble caught between the rotor and the shield.
I'm leaning toward this diagnosis, as I work down a gravel, dusty, bumpy driveway!!

It sounded pretty bad, but then went away after leaving the driveway.

I'll know more in a couple hours on how the pads look after the wheels come off. It might be a 'preventative maintenance' thing, and I might just swap the pads earlier than later too....
 

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Mine are doing the same i have pulled them and found the pads front and rear to be in the 50% range. Not sure why they are making the grind noise. Only when temps are up cool mornings they dont make the sound. I have new pads and tempted to just swap them out.
 

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yesterday after work, my brakes started making a horrible grinding/squeeling noise as I left the parking lot! It sounds like i'll need new front pads or something. The rotors looked decent yet.

Is this typical of a car with only 42,000 miles on it?
Mileage is largely irrelevant when it comes to the life of brake pads and rotors. It's all about how you drive and the type of traffic you drive in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The mechanic said my brakes should be good yet, and didn't notice any problems with them. He said they are maybe 1/2 way down. ~7mm of pad left.

He said perhaps something got rusty and felt into the brakes or got something caught in there that made the noise. And must have fallen out, since it no longer makes noise.

I might end up ordering those upgraded pads sometime, just to have them for when I need them. Maybe install next Spring or something.

But, I should be fine in the meantime!

Good news at least for now..(and saves me $$)..but ****, that sound was LOUD!
 

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Our 2010 with 30,000 is going in for "rear brakes" today...go figure!
Happy to report my rear brakes were replaced under warranty.Very suprised as a long time GM owner.GM would have never replaced under warranty.....had a new set go at 19,000 miles on my daughter's car and had to pay for myself.
 

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LOL GM service rep would have asked you three times what you wanted - then laughed and said no way man those are wear items we don't replace those! Yep been down that road my self. Subaru stepped up to replace a failed gasket on my car at 65K had it done by the next day zero charge to me and was fine for the rest of the 10yrs I had it.

A big big reason I own another Subaru. They generally do the right thing vs the domestics are done with you the moment you roll off the lot.
 

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Is this typical of a car with only 42,000 miles on it?
For a modern car 42,000 is a long time for pads to last actually. I participate on a handful of automotive forums like this one and across many car makes/models there is a concensus that newer cars wear brakes much faster, often due to EBD, TCS, and ABS systems. Actually EBD systems many newer cars actually wear out the rear brakes before the fronts, which is illogical to those of us who grew up with front brakes always wearing most due to engine weight. (EBD = Electronic Brake Force Distribution).

My 2009 Ford's rear brakes were gone at 20K. My 2007 Saab's front brakes were gone at 25K. My 2004 Volvo's brakes were gone at 20K.

I wonder if the 2013's with Eyesight would burn thru pads faster since the system might make you brake more? Maybe not since you'd be braking the same anyway pressing on the pedal, its' just doing it for you.
 

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Yeah, I wouldn't be a bit upset if I changed pads at 42k or even 30k. Subaru pads are cheap and easy to do yourself. It takes longer to jack up the car and take the tires off than it does to change the pads on a subaru.
 

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2.5i 2010 outback, 6 speed mt, silver, black inside
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wow

I have 60,000 on my OB and still have 3/4 of my pads :D
 

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I finally replaced the brake pads/shoes all around on my 4runner at 180k. But I am old, and grew up when brakes were optional, and not to be trusted.
 

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I'm finding that with my pads around 50-60% pad left at 40K both front and back - but under low speed light use doing the daily daycare run they develop a grinding noise but after a few higher speed longer braking runs the grinding stops for a while. I suspect the pad material under light use is generating a dust that gets caught up in the pad and causes the weird grinding sound. I've pulled the brakes twice now to take a look for sure 100% the pads are at 50% or more left and the rotors are true and have no signs of abnormal wear. Pretty sure it has something to do with the compound used in the pad material and typical braking I'm doing during the week running around town locally. One trip on the highway on the weekend with a fairly decent extended hard braking say coming down the off ramp and the grinding clears up for a few days.

I plan on running the pads till they are doing to 15-20% then swapping them with the stock pads I picked up a while back. Should be interesting to see if the second set of pads do the same thing after they get down a bit.

I for sure can see dealers taking advantage of people and selling them a major brake job rotors and pads for big money for this odd grind that the pads do under certain types of constant brake use. But from all indications it just sounds bad with no other problems being caused etc.
 
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