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2000 Outback 2.5L
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27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got metal filings showing up in my oil, so I don't think my engine is long for this world :(. I guess at 299,700KM she's had a good life, but I was looking forward to rolling over 300k.

I'm thinking of dropping a new engine in to replace the 2.5 boxer... Any recommendations on compatible matches?
 

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OBW H6 VDC, Tribeca, XT6
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12,385 Posts
They usually only have issues at that low mileage if they've been run low on oil, extended oil change intervals, or overheated at some point in life - you're sure it's not something else or something less ominous?

You don't any knocking noises or other issues? Maybe you can reach 300k...you're so close!?

You said "new engine" and "compatible matches". You want a brand new engine or used?

Any 00-04 EJ25 will work. 99 RS and Forester EJ25's will work as well (but not 99 Legacy or Outback).

Any 99+ EJ22 will also be a direct swap, though you may have to swap cam sprockets...which is really no extra work (2 bolts and 4 minutes) if you're replacing the timing belt and cam/crank seals which i would do anyway on a used motor.

You can even use any EJ25 short block if you bolt your heads to them...older ones you need thick headgaskets to pull that off. But if you've really got engine wear/particulate matter in the oil then you might not really want to use the heads from your old engine.
 

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2000 Outback 2.5L
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27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the help! There's a few more options than I thought!

I'm not 100% sure of what it was that I saw in the oil, but it was only that one time. I've been keeping a close eye on it since.

The engine runs fine aside from some slight piston slapping, and timing belt noise. You have to be really listening to notice either, but I know its only going to get worse if it's not addressed. She's due for an overhaul at minimum. For the work involved, I figured its worth seeing whats available for replacement so I can minimize the time in the garage.

I'm not looking for a new engine. Used or refurbished would be my best options. While I'm at it, is there anything I can do to boost its performance on the cheap?
 

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2000 Outback 2.5L
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27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ok, I've found a 2001 Legacy with 170,000KM for $300... Assuming the engine runs, the only potential problem I can see is its an automatic transmission, not standard as I have. Will this cause a problem?
 

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OBW H6 VDC, Tribeca, XT6
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$300 is so cheap, I'd be worried the engine isn't any better than yours. I could sell that motor tomorrow for twice that..probably 3x that, someone just mentioned in another thread they sold one with like 3x that mileage for $1,800 installed in another thread. $300 is a steal. These motors have significant headgasket issues (type EJ25 headgasket into google if yo'ure unaware). Low costs engines that have known headgasket problems is generally risky, so walk carefully.

You're only buying an extra 100,000 or 60,000 miles, from an unknown engine - that could go either way. With enough info it sounds good. With unknowns it sounds risky. Considering how old it is - it still needs a full timing belt kit, headgaskets need checked (have they ever been replaced - that engine in the US was subject to an extended 100,000 mile headgaset warranty), etc.

It might be worth doing proper maintenance on your existing engine depending what is up with yours and what is known about this $300 engine.

My friend bought one for cheap last year...like $300...turned out to have been seriously overheated, had blown headgaskets, found melted timing covers when we pulled it out, and the timing belt tenesioner was slapping around like crazy. Not a big deal, but $300 can quickly turn into more and a hassle.

Auto-Manual does not matter at all - they are the exact same engines, plug and play. The only thing you need to make sure is that if your engine has an EGR valve, you want the new engine to have an EGR valve.

You can swap either way and the car runs fine indefinitely but you'll get a check engine light that doesn't go away. I remove the EGR systems or swap engines that don't have EGR on purpose on mine because no emissions where i live so it doesn't matter.
 

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01 VDC, 05 R Sedan, 06 BAJA EJ257
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16,479 Posts
Buy it, overhaul it with new MLS gaskets, new Tstat, fresh gaskets throughout and install it in yours. Part out the rest of the car and turn over some of the cost. Those transmissions are hard to come by also. A complete trans is worth $500 as a rebuilder, more if it shifts.
 

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2000 Outback 2.5L
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27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm thinking I'm gonna buy it. Driver lost control in an icy curve and rolled it, wrote off the car (firefighters cut doors off to get passengers out), and the tow truck driver kept the car as payment. He just wants it gone.

I've also found a $700 running engine at a local salvage yard. After delivery, this parts car will also cost $700 (Flatbed for 300km).

Apparently the parts car engine runs fine, though I would definitely be giving it a timing kit at minimum, likely head gaskets as well. I know about the head gasket issues, and I'm definitely going to give it a good look over, if the engine is the only good part I'm not taking it. I'm hoping to get a bumper and forward cross member out of this as well, so I can pass my next MVI. The front end doesn't appear to have taken any damage in the pictures.

I'll make sure about the EGR valve, thanks! Emissions laws are pretty standard here in Canada, so I'd be surprised if it wasn't on either of the engines.
 
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