Ok so im helping a friend with his 98 OB he put in a new used motor and trans and after two weeks the main fuse blew along with most of the other fuses. What could cause this? How can I tell if the computer is still good with out risking damage?
yeah he just got out of his car one day and heard it sizziling. I'm thinking about buying it from him. I'm leaning towards a dead short in the alterator. If im lucky I might just drop in an alternator some new fuses and be good to go, and have my first subaru. I'm so excited:20:Oh and was the battery sizzling while the car was stopped? There's a major short(s) somewhere.
He put the new motor in because he had overheated it and destroyed the heads. He is a mechanic so I would assume he got everything hooked up right. My theory with the alternator is that it started overcharging the first warning sign of this was the sizziling battery. Then I think it started to overheat and possibly melted some of the insulation in the alternator causing the dead short. It happend to him while he was on the highway.There are, literally, countless things that could be going on with a full engine/trans swap. Connections could've been hooked up wrong anywhere along the line. Wires could be crossed. Grounds could be incorrect. Your ideas could be correct with the alternator as well, but that sounds pretty **** serious to be caused by a bad alternator.
Do you have more info? What was it like before the swap?
Ok Is it possible the Ignition Control Module Is Bad? I mean its right there next to where the alarms siren wire was floating around if it hit something near it maybe it shorted it out.Well I took a good look at it today. We got it turning over but there is no spark. I found out when he put the new battery in the alarm system went off and he decided to cut the wire to the siren. so this live wire was just floating around in shorting out on everything. He didnt have the keyless entry remote anymore so he wasnt able to disable the alarm but he did find the reset switch and try to reset it but I dont know if it worked. It isnt blowing fuses anymore but i wonder if the coil got shorted out(if thats even possible) or maybe the alarm system is somehow keeping power from reaching the coil.
Well It's sad to say this but he has decided to part the car out. I have decided not to buy as well. We determined alot today. Bad coil, bad ICM, bad alternator, damaged computer, and other damaged sensors. If anyone wants parts off this it should be on ebay or craigslist sometime.Going back a bit, the fact that several fuses blew could take the blame off the alternator. A better idea might be had if we knew exactly which fuses blew (each time, if it happened more than once).
Attached is a wiring diagram that should correspond to the car's system. If the alternator were to short (the "W" wire to ground), then the main fuse between the alternator and the battery (FL 1.25), would take the full current.
However, at the same time, the other fuses (SBFs) would not be handling unusual current as the alternator is not downstream of them, so they shouldn't blow.
If high amperage SBF fuses blew as well, then there must have been a short, or shorts, downstream of those fuses. None of the SBFs is rated as high as the FL 1.25, so a short in a circuit downsteam of a single SBF should not have caused the main fuse to blow (although that one SBF might), but if there were shorts downstream of several SBFs, then it's possible that both those SBFs and the main fuse would blow.
From the diagram, there's three SBFs downstream of FL 1.25; SBF-3, SBF-6 and SBF-7. Were these blown? Any others?
(Sure a screwdriver or wrench wasn't left sitting across some wires?)