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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all! I purchased a 2010 OB Limited 2.5L on 3/17. I've been interested in getting a fuel efficient AWD for a while now. The previous ride was a Jeep Commander with a Hemi. It only had 76,000 miles on it the day I sold it 3/14/20.

I have a daughter in college and she has no vehicle. We travel to pick her up at all breaks and attend several family events put on by the University throughout the year. We average a trip every 4-6 weeks to see her and the fuel consumption was a bit much with the Jeep.

I am a car nut and started my research to narrow down a new ride. I have always had an interest in Subaru but was leery of the 2.5 head gasket issue. The OB that I found has had them replaced recently with the engine pulled and a complete reseal done top to bottom. All gaskets whether they were for oil or coolant have been replaced. The CVT was replaced by Subaru in 2018. The timing belt and water pump are new as well. I have a large file with receipts for all of this. All of this work was performed by a mechanic who is a service manager for a Hyundai dealership. This OB was his personal vehicle.

After getting all of this information and driving the OB, I was satisfied that most of the major concerns were already addressed. The price was acceptable and a deal was made. This is where the fun starts.

March 18, the day after purchase, DMVs in my state close due to COVID-19. I can't get the title for the Jeep I sold or the OB I purchased. I have a bill of sale and my state is granting 30 exclusions on proper paperwork. I put the plates from the Jeep on it and started driving the OB.

March 19 - wife and kid inform me the child lock in the driver's rear door won't disengage. A quick Google search and removing the door panel got that fixed in a few minutes.
Also, when my wife followed me home on the day of purchase, I noticed the headlights were badly misaligned. So I decided to try to correct that after the door panel job. Long story short, no amount of adjustment could bring the passenger side into a good place. It's like the bulb has no focusing. It is diffused all over the place. Gonna try a new bulb eventually.

March 22 - we needed to take my daughter back to college. She will be elearning but, she has a job where she goes to school and the business is still open. She needs to work to pay rent and student loans. If she doesn't work it falls to me to pay. So, first long trip to feel out the new ride and check the fuel economy.

First thing I notice is no floor heat. 34 degrees out and my feet are freezing. Google shows this to be a common problem. I fiddled with the settings and pushed the panel at the bottom of the dash up to clear the vent and suffered cold (not freezing) feet on the way down.

Next thing, 20mpg calculated on first fillup. Not great.

Arrive at daughter's appartment, unload, say goodbye, start to head for home . First stoplight I come to, CEL/traction control light/BRAKE flashing/CRUISE flashing.

Stop at an O'Reilly's on the way home and get P2096 bank 1 too lean. Been surfing today. Could be a few different things.

I don't believe in buyer's remorse but....

I promise to get some pics and report back when I sort a few things out. It was late and snowing when I got home last night. I work for a state highway department and had to go to work 10 minutes after I got home. IHML.....

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All of this work was performed by a mechanic who is a service manager for a Hyundai dealership. This OB was his personal vehicle.
Sounds a little fishy that a service manager mechanic would have a personal vehicle with misaligned or out of focus headlights, a non-working heater, and all of the issues you've been having. Makes me wonder if saying it was his personal vehicle is just his way of embellishing the provenance of the cars he flips?

Anyways, hoping you get all of this resolved one way or another.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I wondered about him being a flipper as well but, I snooped through the glove box on the test drive and he owned the OB for 3 years prior to me buying it. I'm hoping when the reinsertion of the engine was done, a simple vacuum hose, fitting, etc was forgotten or needs replaced. Could be intake gaskets, could be O2 sensor, could be gas cap, could be......

The hunt begins.

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Discussion Starter #4
Say hello to Christine. I call her that because she's possessed. I mentioned some issues in my original post but the list continues to grow.

Issues to date:

1. No floor heat- been researching but haven't found an actual fix online

2. Headlights misaligned- thinking about LEDs haven't had time to do much

3. P2096 - bought a BAFX Obd2 scanner, located service manual online (6257 pages) and am leaning towards wide band air/fuel sensor aka upstream sensor.

4. Oil level warning light on - oil level is fine, wire for sensor is missing insulation at connector. I tried to seal it up but it didn't help. New sensor is $75, but this shot to the bottom of the priority list due to item #5.

5. CVT leaking - located a TSB regarding chain case/front output shaft fluid seepage. My OB has a reman CVT from a Subaru dealer. I contacted SOA and they advised the reman has a 1 yr/ unlimited mileage or 2 yr /24,000 mile warranty whichever is more advantageous to the customer. I have 3000 miles left on the warranty and have an appointment at the closest dealership on 3/31.

6. Lower control arm bushings are shot. Siberian polyurethane here we come.

Well, I suppose that's enough for now. All of this in one week. Other than the CVT leak and the bushings, none of this reared it's ugly head until I got it home. I am colorblind and thought the leak was engine oil because of the location of the leak. Oil leaks are not good but with proper attention, I felt I could live with it. My truck has a rear main leak and I just keep an eye on it. I will sort out some of these things. If the CVT is covered by Subaru my costs will be bearable. O2 sensor, LCA bushings, and an oil level sensor should be under $300 with me doing the work.

I generally do all of my own work and research. I have never bought a used vehicle I didn't believe in. I made a very large error on this one and got bent over badly. I have to fix it as I have just started paying for it. I wouldn't sell it to anyone else in its present condition.
20200328_124915.jpg


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Well, I have a proper inspection from a Subaru dealership now. My fluid leak is not CVT fluid. It is motor oil. Dealership wanted $4300 for engine removal and complete reseal. Also advised main oil pressure switch and both VVL switches leaking.

Five minutes of searching Google and I realize that the switch leaks are very common and easy to replace. Stopping a visible oil leak starts with this. The engine was supposedly resealed by the previous owner but I wonder if he knew about the switches causing issues. Anyhow, $25 in parts and I'll see if my leak subsides.

P2096 code - tech says it needs both the a/f sensor and the rear O2 sensor. Over $400 dollars in parts and $380 in labor. No thanks, my scanner tells me it's the a/f sensor and it's $95 for the OEM Denso on Amazon. If things go well, 15 minutes to replace.

Front U-joint loose on propeller shaft. Not serviceable and $700 plus labor for a reman shaft. No thanks, can get U-joints from Rockford Driveline for $17 each.

Lots of other little things that I can fix myself.

Dealership had an estimate for everything totaling $8300. This is why I do my own research and work.

Several parts have been ordered and I will have some things sorted out by the weekend.

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Discussion Starter #7
New air/fuel sensor is installed and MPG was around 30 on a short highway drive. I needed a win. Still waiting on some additional parts but things are shaping up.

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