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You might want to get some oral diphenhydramine (benadryl) for help with mild allergic responses. Worth mentioning to your healthcare provider for advice if it should happen again. Sometimes an allergy may be mild and then become severe on a subsequent exposure if the immune system becomes highly reactive. In that case, something like benadryl won't be enough.
 

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2008 OB Limited 2.5i, Portland OR USA
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What the **** is a Chigger?
I was honestly thinking spider bite, but yes, this is another possibility. Even with no allergies you definitely don't want to get bitten by either one.

My experience when I was down in northern Calfornia on a Mt. Shasta climb 3 years ago: Below timberline was prime territory for some species of the spiders, and yes chiggers also, and they tend to climb into your boots if you leave them outside your tent netting (typically under cover of your tent vestibule). We made it standard procedure in the morning to shake out our boots before we put them on, just in case.

The Shasta rubber-eating chipmunks have been noted at the trailheads and even discussed here on the forum, but at least they stop there and will leave you alone.
 

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2006 OutBean, 2005 LGTW
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Discussion Starter #64
I was honestly thinking spider bite, but yes, this is another possibility. Even with no allergies you definitely don't want to get bitten by either one.

My experience when I was down in northern Calfornia on a Mt. Shasta climb 3 years ago: Below timberline was prime territory for some species of the spiders, and yes chiggers also, and they tend to climb into your boots if you leave them outside your tent netting (typically under cover of your tent vestibule). We made it standard procedure in the morning to shake out our boots before we put them on, just in case.

The Shasta rubber-eating chipmunks have been noted at the trailheads and even discussed here on the forum, but at least they stop there and will leave you alone.
Guess they needed some nesting material huh? lol
 

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Discussion Starter #65
@traildogck ...did you ever use map gas to pop out bushings. ?
(just wondering, ...still enjoying the arms you sold me with the red sparkle paint, smarter bushings in them already :geek:,)

and @aesthetic.rake
I don't see any blue or pink in the fire pic there. ...how unique.
I was just thinking about this..

fwiw, map gas isn't required. You can use propane too. Just has to get hot enough to melt the rubber.
 

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Discussion Starter #66
Alright, so, got back on the project yesterday. My foot is doing much better. Still can't wear shoes but the swelling has gone way down. Thank you all very much for your concern.

So the task at hand yesterday was to put the weight of the car on the suspension, and torque the suspension arms down, then oil and coolant.

First thing first, lets put a vacuum on the cooling system and make sure there's no leaks.

You've seen my vacuum coolant filler before if you've seen my threads...
493497
493498

I like to mark where the needle is so I can see if there are leaks.

While that's sitting, it's time torque the rear suspension...

Two jacks help me put the weight of the car on the rear suspension.. I really don't like getting under the car when it's like this but we do what we must... (Yes, these are the recalled Harbor Freight jack stands. No, I'm not concerned really. I don't use them very high and all the videos I've seen of them "failing" have been from folks kicking them. I'm very aware that these aren't great and that I shouldn't be using them and I exercise lots of caution when I'm under the car with them. HF doesn't have replacements yet, so, I'm stuck with them for now. I am considering modifying them so they work appropriately but I think as long as I don't kick the **** out of them they should be fine (famous last words))
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The hardware holding your rear suspension together is important obviously. If I recall correctly, Subaru, in their FSM, suggests replacing it and I don't really disagree. Beyond the nuts that I showed you earlier in the thread that I chowdered, I noticed while putting the rear arms back together that one of the nuts I was trying to reuse spun on freely. These nuts shouldn't do that!

I've seen these referred to as stover nuts but I'm sure they're called other things. They're designed to withstand severe vibrations and shock loads (which the suspension is under a lot of) by being a lock nut of sorts. They're distorted on the top so as they're torqued down, the kinda act like a nylok nut in a way.

The distortion is easy to see on the new one. The old one in the photo wasn't any good anymore.. it was too round. I'm glad I bought two when I replaced the one I needed to. Fortunately, it was the only one that lost it's distortion and the others all went on as expected.
493502


With the suspension torqued, we're ready to move on to fluids.
 
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Alright, so, got back on the project yesterday. My foot is doing much better. Still can't wear shoes but the swelling has gone way down. Thank you all very much for your concern.

So the task at hand yesterday was to put the weight of the car on the suspension, and torque the suspension arms down, then oil and coolant.

First thing first, lets put a vacuum on the cooling system and make sure there's no leaks.

You've seen my vacuum coolant filler before if you've seen my threads...
View attachment 493497 View attachment 493498
I like to mark where the needle is so I can see if there are leaks.

While that's sitting, it's time torque the rear suspension...

Two jacks help me put the weight of the car on the rear suspension.. I really don't like getting under the car when it's like this but we do what we must... (Yes, these are the recalled Harbor Freight jack stands. No, I'm not concerned really. I don't use them very high and all the videos I've seen of them "failing" have been from folks kicking them. I'm very aware that these aren't great and that I shouldn't be using them and I exercise lots of caution when I'm under the car with them. HF doesn't have replacements yet, so, I'm stuck with them for now. I am considering modifying them so they work appropriately but I think as long as I don't kick the **** out of them they should be fine (famous last words))
View attachment 493500
View attachment 493501

The hardware holding your rear suspension together is important obviously. If I recall correctly, Subaru, in their FSM, suggests replacing it and I don't really disagree. Beyond the nuts that I showed you earlier in the thread that I chowdered, I noticed while putting the rear arms back together that one of the nuts I was trying to reuse spun on freely. These nuts shouldn't do that!

I've seen these referred to as stover nuts but I'm sure they're called other things. They're designed to withstand severe vibrations and shock loads (which the suspension is under a lot of) by being a lock nut of sorts. They're distorted on the top so as they're torqued down, the kinda act like a nylok nut in a way.

The distortion is easy to see on the new one. The old one in the photo wasn't any good anymore.. it was too round. I'm glad I bought two when I replaced the one I needed to. Fortunately, it was the only one that lost it's distortion and the others all went on as expected.
View attachment 493502

With the suspension torqued, we're ready to move on to fluids.
If you want quality jack stands for not much more then harbor freight, Cornwell has a set for around $40-$60 depending which you go with. And they do go on special here and there. Problem would be sourcing a truck dealer so you wouldn't have to buy shipping haha.
 

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Discussion Starter #68
So, I know there's lots of debate about oils. I'm from the "clean cheap oil is better than dirty expensive oil" camp. That said, I don't really like switching brands very much but recently, I made a change.

Costco used to carry Chevron Supreme oil which I loved. It was inexpensive, readily available (since we shop at Costco a lot--who can deny the $1.50 hot dog and $5 rotisserie chickens are incredible deals?!) and, from what I read, fantastic oil.

Unfortunately, our Costco doesn't carry it anymore. They do, however, carry their "Kirkland" house brand synthetic oil. Project farm on YouTube did some tests with it and found it was good to go and for the price, how could anyone argue. I mean, I wouldn't (and don't) run it in my turbo car, but the Toyota Tundra? Yeah, for sure! The Lexus SC430? Absolutely. The Outbean--why the **** not!? So that's what we're running this time. Plus, I had it. :)

OEM filter, of course.
493503


$25 for 10 quarts.. yeah, imma bite on that!

With all that out of the way, the cooling system held a vacuum all that time. Nice, no leaks. But we're about to make one.

I had asked you guys a week ago or so if there were any guesses to what this thing was...
493504


Evidently, there were certain models of Range Rovers that had a similar "bleeder valve" on top of the engine that was made of nylon or something... anyways, it was/is a major point of failure for those models and industrious enthusiasts designed this bleeder valve to go in place of the plastic, high failure rate one. I had considered making my own version from brass parts from the hardware store but to be honest, it all together probably would have cost more than this thing and would have been heavy and looked bulky for where I had intended to put it. This was an elegant solution to a problem I shouldn't have had in the first place.

With all the testing of the cooling system we had done on this car, most of which is documented in the "Case of the overheating H6" thread, one thing nagged at me. Was there an air bubble in the cooling system I was incapable of getting out? The throttle body is literally the highest point on the engine and in times past, I've pulled the coolant hose that leads to it expecting coolant to come rushing out but, no, nothing... air. Hmm. So, I bought this bleeder valve to make it definitive for me.

Of course, getting it installed where I wanted took some doing.
493505


Normally, this hose takes a downward 90° out of the throttle body and heads down to one of the coolant lines that leads to the heater core. In order to add our new valve, we kinda had to re-route the hose. Fortunately, I had this hose on the shelf already from projects past (BMW I think..) and it was a good fit.

Since this car is going to a family member, I intend to put it all back together. The diaper, the engine cover, etc. This valve needed to be able to be turned so the cap didn't stick up so the cover could go back on so, putting it here worked out pretty well. I didn't want the hose to rub on any of the corners though, so the addition of a "P clip" helps hold the hose in position and keep it free of abrasion.
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After we're done, we can rotate the entire valve so it tucks out of the way.
493507


So, time to fill the coolant system.

Using the vacuum filler tool, I discovered, to my horror, the cap that fits on my new bleeder valve is faulty. Won't hold a vacuum. Won't hold pressure. I hit up the company I bought it from (linked above) for some help but they're email only. Lame. Fortunately, a local hot rod shop had AN fittings and sold me a cap that didn't leak... for a whopping $8. AN fittings, evidently, are expensive. This is my first experience with them so I had no idea.

I got a call from crossaxled, the folks that sold me this valve, on my way home from the local hot rod shop and he was gracious enough to offer to send me a new cap, but, I'm not about to wait a week to get this car on the road. Maybe I'll replace it, maybe I won't. I probably will. I'm entirely too neurotic to have a blue cap where there was supposed to be a black one...
493508


Whatever. It works for now. I also added a zip tie to keep the line off the metal fuel lines, just in case. It's not pretty, but it serves the purpose pretty well.

Even with the vacuum coolant tool, I still ran into the water pump not wanting to circulate coolant through the system. That fucking air pocket behind the thermostat! I've got about a 60% success rate getting the coolant system filled up first time with this thing. I've done it a lot too so it's not an experience thing. With the help of my new bleeder valve though, I think it was easier to get the residual air out of the system. It made a mess of the engine as you can see.

493509


I've got a small fortune invested in coolant for this car. All the testing, all the drains/refills. All the component changes. All the new radiators... To save money, I stopped buying the "ready to use" coolant in favor of making my own for about half the cost. Concentrate is the way to go. $14 for the concentrate and .98 for a gallon of distilled water vs. $13 each for two "ready to use" 50:50 coolant bottles, yeah, about half the cost. The addition of the Royal Purple coolant additive isn't new-- @cardoc (?) had suggested it last year as a possible solution. I'm including it now because I'm trying to give the car every opportunity I can to keep itself cool. Maybe the addition of the coolant additive along with the subtle (or maybe not so subtle improvements in the OEM radiator?) will be enough? Fingers crossed, as this will be my last opportunity to do what I can for it.

After the air was bled from the system and the cooling fans cycled a bunch of times, I was ready to call it. My feet are still a little too swollen to fit in shoes still so I'm wearing socks and sandals. These sandals don't have any support obviously so by the end of the day, my feet were exhausted and killing me. Plus, wifey was home, so, time to call it.

Today, the wheels go on and the car gets lowered for the final time on the stands. I need to make an appointment for an alignment and set up a windshield replacement. There's a ton of residual polish left all over the car and really, it needs a good detailing inside. I'm not going to rip the interior out like I have on projects in the past, plus, it's already been done too so really, we just need to touch it up a little. I think a good go once over will suffice. We'll see I guess. Depends on how long it takes the car to get in for an alignment I suppose.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
If you want quality jack stands for not much more then harbor freight, Cornwell has a set for around $40-$60 depending which you go with. And they do go on special here and there. Problem would be sourcing a truck dealer so you wouldn't have to buy shipping haha.
I'm actually considering a set of quick jacks or maybe even a small, portable two post like this: MaxJax® M6K

For our latest home renovation project, we replaced a bunch of busted concrete that was beside my shop. Built a fence, RV parking, a gate etc but when we poured the concrete, I went out of my way to beef up an area of concrete for a large two post that maybe one day I'll get to install. I like the idea of the small portable two post though. I think it would be perfect for my shop.
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Lots more busted concrete to tear up and redo but, this was the most important and difficult so it's the obvious place to start.

Anyways, a nice two post back there would be sweet!
 

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You posted that this had been your wife’s daily driver.
After the alignment, I would be interested in her opinions on the ride and handling difference (if any) after replacement of the rear bushings.
 

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Discussion Starter #71
You posted that this had been your wife’s daily driver.
After the alignment, I would be interested in her opinions on the ride and handling difference (if any) after replacement of the rear bushings.
We'll get her in there for sure.
 
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Yes, these are the recalled Harbor Freight jack stands. No, I'm not concerned really.
I see you're backing it up with not one but two floor jacks. Wise move.

I'm actually considering a set of quick jacks or maybe even a small, portable two post like this:
QuickJack is what some of us here use - not quite the lift height of the two post, but adequate, and on a good day about half the cost:
 

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Discussion Starter #73
I see you're backing it up with not one but two floor jacks. Wise move.


QuickJack is what some of us here use - not quite the lift height of the two post, but adequate, and on a good day about half the cost:
And Costco has them for a good deal sometimes too, so, there's that.

I really don't have the headroom for the small two post to really be of any good use. The part that concerns me about the quick jacks is it appears to move the car forward as it lifts. Is that the case? I don't really have the room to pull further in the shop to accommodate any forward movement from the quickjacks. I lack depth in my shop so the car that's to go on stands pretty much has to go straight up. I only have a foot forward and back or so to spare.

*edit

$1200 shipped!? https://www.costco.com/quickjack-5,000-lb-capacity-portable-car-lift.product.100460313.html
I seem to think I've seen them on rebate as well. Hmm..
 

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Discussion Starter #74
Something tells me I shouldn't go with this guy...

493525


Is there a meme or something I'm missing here?
 
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Some insurance companies do cover a windshield replacement. My brother got his replaced for free on a Isuzu rodeo.
Mine insurance has a deductible for windshield replacement. The cost of a replacement wjndsheild was less than the deductible. It was all out of pocket for me


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #77
I think it was the "gauranteed" part of the business card.

I mean, I'm not the best speller or anything but on my business card I think I'd be extra diligent.

Maybe that's just me though...
 

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And Costco has them for a good deal sometimes too, so, there's that.
Actually, that's what I meant by "on a good day".

$1200 shipped!? I seem to think I've seen them on rebate as well.
At one point, they were $900, maybe not shipped but purchased from stock at the stores. But not all Costcos had them in stock, and in any case that price didn't last long.

The part that concerns me about the quick jacks is it appears to move the car forward as it lifts. Is that the case?
Yes, these are parallelogram lifts, and they by necessity have to shift longitudinally as they raise. It can be your choice, forward or backward, although their normal use is such that it's forward. I suppose you're going to ask me "how much"; without dragging them out but noting that in the high position it's about 18" lift and the parallelogram ends are perhaps raised to a 60 degree angle from horizontal, my trigonometry says that's about 10.4".

As I likewise have a tight fit in the garage, what this means to me is that I start with the back of the car partially sticking out of the garage, counting on the fact that this 10.4" forward motion is going to bring it inside the garage door and I'll still have room at the front to work. Then I close the door and hope I remember to open the door again before lowering it back down.
 

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Discussion Starter #79
Actually, that's what I meant by "on a good day".


At one point, they were $900, maybe not shipped but purchased from stock at the stores. But not all Costcos had them in stock, and in any case that price didn't last long.


Yes, these are parallelogram lifts, and they by necessity have to shift longitudinally as they raise. It can be your choice, forward or backward, although their normal use is such that it's forward. I suppose you're going to ask me "how much"; without dragging them out but noting that in the high position it's about 18" lift and the parallelogram ends are perhaps raised to a 60 degree angle from horizontal, my trigonometry says that's about 10.4".

As I likewise have a tight fit in the garage, what this means to me is that I start with the back of the car partially sticking out of the garage, counting on the fact that this 10.4" forward motion is going to bring it inside the garage door and I'll still have room at the front to work. Then I close the door and hope I remember to open the door again before lowering it back down.
Dude.. you're the MAN! hahaha

I didn't think about using them backwards. Hmm.. food for thought anyways.
 

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Discussion Starter #80
Well, the OutBean is finally out of the garage. Shake down run went well. The car was supposed to go to the alignment place today but I'm holding it off for one more day..

Notice anything wrong with it???

493582


No? Well, it's the rear end. It's abnormally high.. and I'm not really sure why.

Working theory is I didn't have enough weight on the rear end when I torqued the suspension arms back up and some of the bushes are bound up.

So today, I'll be backing the car back into the shop, loosening all those arms back up and seeing what happens. The H6 cars, atleast looking around online at other folks H6 cars, always have had a bit more of a stink bug kinda thing. I don't know if that's true or confirmation bias on my part but this is something I noticed earlier this year when I had our old 07 Limited next to the LLBean...

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It just seemed like the H6 car was a little lower in the front than the ej25 car. Is the H6 any heavier really?

Regardless, the rear of the OutBean seems about 1.5-2" too high. We'll see what happens....
 
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