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2005 Outback 2.5XT 5MT
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Discussion Starter #1
I replaced the timing belt on my 2005 OBXT today and made sure everything was in the right place, everything was at TDC, all the marks lined up, the marks on the cams were straight up; singles to the timing cover marks and the doubles to the doubles, the keyway in the crank gear was at 7 o'clock and was lined up on the marks exactly... It rolled over by hand easily and freely. (without spark plugs in)

Why won't it start? It just keeps cranking and sounds normal, no clinks, clunks, tings, nothing of the sort, even on the first time I tried to start it. It just keeps cranking over and makes no effort to fire. We even double checked it afterwards and it rolled over easily by hand.

What did I do wrong? How can I fix this? Did I bend the valves?
 

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03 H6 OBW & 06 WRX Sportwagon
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did you use the hash mark on the 'tab' in back of the crank sprocket?
 

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2005 Outback 2.5XT 5MT
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134 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
What do you mean? I lined up the engraved "|" on the crank pulley with the one on the engine block. I have a Haynes book and did it according to what they said.
 

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probably the same thing.

make sure none of those tabs got accidentally broken off. the crank position sensor uses them.

they look kinda like this;


sounds like you knew what you were doing. Um, do you have a check engine light on?

were you doing a TB install for maintenance reasons or trying to repair a problem?

any fuel smell? You might try holding the pedal on the floor while cranking. That is the 'clear flood' procedure.
 

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1993 Legacy LSi with still functioning Air Suspension, 1999 Outback 2.5L 5MT lab Rat
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if the Key was at 7:00 you are approximately 30 degrees off of Service position. The keyway should be at 6:00 then the hash at the top of the Crank Sprocket will be lined up at 12:00, reset the belt to the crank and your car should start
 

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2005 Outback 2.5XT 5MT
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Discussion Starter #6
There is a check engine light, but its not Subaru's usual "flash the cruise control light too". I think its just the default "hey stupid your car didn't start. try again" CEL.

Does that make sense..?

But it was just for maintenance reasons, I've had no problems with the car. Other than this of course...
 

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2005 Outback 2.5XT 5MT
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Discussion Starter #7
if the Key was at 7:00 you are approximately 30 degrees off of Service position. The keyway should be at 6:00 then the hash at the top of the Crank Sprocket will be lined up at 12:00, reset the belt to the crank and your car should start
Would trying to start my car as it is cause any valve damage...? I did a little research earlier today and found this thread: New Timing Belt, Won't Start - Subaru Forester Owners Forum

Post #3 by ferret said that the keyway should be at 7:00... I trust what you're saying, I'm just confused as to why he's saying it should be at 7 instead of 6. Is it because of a SOHC and DOHC difference?
 

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1993 Legacy LSi with still functioning Air Suspension, 1999 Outback 2.5L 5MT lab Rat
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If you are only 30 degrees off you should not have bent any valves, but your belt by your description, is not lined up to the crank correctly
 

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Discussion Starter #9
How could I have gotten that wrong..? All the marks lined up perfectly.

I'll check and see what I can do tomorrow.
 

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1993 Legacy LSi with still functioning Air Suspension, 1999 Outback 2.5L 5MT lab Rat
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So here goes best I can describe from having done over 100 Subaru DOHC Cam belt replacements. Crank Kay at 6:00 small hash mark lines up with hash on outer sealing edge of oil pump. Also Note Arrow mark at 3:00 See Lucky Texans Pic Above. Now facing the engine from left to right, Top cam on Left as you face the engine Top Cam Pulley (RT.Intake) Hash at 12:00, Below (RT.Exhaust) Timing Hash at 9:00 note these should line up with the rear belt cover Notch. Now to the Right as you face engine top (LT.Intake) Timing Hash at 12:00, Below (LT.Exhaust) Hash Mark at 3:00 Also note they should line up with Notch on rear Cam cover. Note Also that any Quality timing belt will have Marks that match these places on the belt, Broken Mark lines on Crank Pulley, 4 solid marks on Cam Pulleys. Another piece of information on the Double hash marks (rt side Intake and exhaust )will line up almost exactly 6 and 12:00 and on the Lt side Intake and exhaust ( right side as you face engine ) they will be slightly canted from 6 and 12 about 1-2mm Top canted clockwise, bottom slightly counter. This will be improved prior to pulling the tensioner pin by rotating the top gear on that side counter clockwise to place all the belt slack under the tensioner.

Also I use 2 binder clips on the Pulleys on the Lt intake and exhaust (right as you face) to retain the belt while I am replacing the idler pulleys to assure they do not jump time
 

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2005 Outback 2.5XT 5MT
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Discussion Starter #11
Good to know, thank you! It kinda sounds like I'm one tooth (or two teeth) off on the crank pulley.

I know I asked before, but is there any chance that there was any damage caused to the valves?
 

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1993 Legacy LSi with still functioning Air Suspension, 1999 Outback 2.5L 5MT lab Rat
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if you are only 30 degrees off not likely. If it cranks smoothly I'd say your probably ok, especially since you cranked it by hand before you started.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
That's a relief.

Thank you! I'll get some sleep and fix it up tomorrow. I'll report back with what I find.
 

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1993 Legacy LSi with still functioning Air Suspension, 1999 Outback 2.5L 5MT lab Rat
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Good luck, Hope your back on the road in time for Lunch!
 

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03 H6 OBW & 06 WRX Sportwagon
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sounds like you had spark plugs out so, you might check ignition connections. any other work done?
 

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2005 Outback 2.5XT 5MT
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Discussion Starter #17
So, this isn't my picture, but this is EXACTLY (kind of) how my crank was lined up.
1.jpg
 

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01 Outback H6 VDC, 97 GT wgn w/ ej22, 98 OBW w/ej22
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but this is EXACTLY (kind of)
please define ''kind of''.

i don't mena to be a jerk so please do not misunderstand my intention to help.

the number one leading cause of a no start after major engine work, or timing belt replacement is the timing it off. either from using the wrong marks or the belt is just a couple of teeth off by accident.

this is very common with first timers but it also happens with old timers as well.

you need to rule this out or correct it if it's wrong. until you do you will not get a lot of help here and you probably will not get the engine running.

i know it is a pain, but double check the timing.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Kind of as in the crank pulley itself looked different. It still had all the same marks, it just was a different design.

I'm going to tear it down again today and check the timing, it is a pain, but it'll put me at ease.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Just took it apart. On a scale of 1 to "you bent every valve, start looking for heads" how screwed am I?

Look at the pointer, NOT the yellow mark.
 
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