This seems more a conversation about steering than all wheel drive.
The Gen 4, rev a and b in our family both steer fine, handle fine, just different than each other and other cars.
It may also not be fair or a good comparison if the traction is compared to a traditional 4x4 that locks in center and maybe rear or front. It's certainly different than my 4x4 with electric lockers and so far gets me up and down the ski area service road I travel.
The transmission is the strangest difference for me. Mine's the CVT and it will be at higher RPM than I am used to in my 4Runner when climbing up the ski area service road.
The traction with stock tires is good overall. Our minivan has problems on same road I described and it is marked 4x4 only. My 4Runner has AT rated tires so it with the lockers dig right away.
It's too early for snow here but the two other Subarus in family and several owned by associates do very well in snow.
I do wonder if the OEM tires contribute much to the driving personality. As an example, the Michelin (Defender???) tires we just got on our van seem quieter, softer on pavement cracks but very good traction compared to many.
We chose the Outback over other fine competitors and I would only give 2 smaller VWs better marks than all of them for steering and handling.