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I just picked up an 08 LL bean H6 with 148,000 miles. I have record of a transmission service last year but who knows what fluid they used etc. I am going to have all fluids in the car changed along with new NGK iridium plugs. Anything else I should do? Here's what I'm thinking
5w30 rotella T6 for engine
Subaru OEM ATF for transmission
What would be good for the differentials?
Is there anything else that should be looked at? I bought this car as a daily driver, until my ordered ram 2500 arrives. It drives great and the power is unreal. Are there any bushings that should be replaced at this point?
Also, the exhaust on this car sounds awful. It sounds like a vacuum cleaner lol, I'm wondering if I could have a leak? Any tips?
Thanks guys!
 

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I just picked up an 08 LL bean H6 with 148,000 miles. I have record of a transmission service last year but who knows what fluid they used etc. I am going to have all fluids in the car changed along with new NGK iridium plugs. Anything else I should do? Here's what I'm thinking
5w30 rotella T6 for engine
Subaru OEM ATF for transmission
What would be good for the differentials?
Is there anything else that should be looked at? I bought this car as a daily driver, until my ordered ram 2500 arrives. It drives great and the power is unreal. Are there any bushings that should be replaced at this point?
Also, the exhaust on this car sounds awful. It sounds like a vacuum cleaner lol, I'm wondering if I could have a leak? Any tips?
Thanks guys!
Rotella is a poor choice for this application. It's a fine motor oil, but there is a risk in using that stuff in any car with catalytic converters. If you have a turbocharger there is an argument that the extra protection is worth the extra risk, but the 3.0 has no turbo to protect. This particular engine is not at all picky about its motor oil. Any conventional SN-rated 5W-30 will protect this engine properly, so you might as well pocket the savings.

Subaru HP ATF is the only transmission fluid I recommend for these. They are picky about ATF. Same stuff is used as power steering fluid. This is also sold as Idemitsu type HP if you spot a deal.

This car is picky about plugs and you're on the right track. Any of the NGKs work fine, but the platinums & iridiums last much longer. Given how hard it is to change the plugs on one of these, the less often you do it the better. Worth the extra money for the rare metal tips.

It is not picky about diff oil. Any GL-5 75W-90 will work.

As far as bushings go: the answer is yes: all the ones that are worn out. You're going to have to crawl under there and inspect them with a light and a prybar, or pay someone else to do that in order to learn which ones actually need replacement. By way of a cheat sheet, the rear suspension arms probably need several by now, and it's worth checking the transmission mounts too. In the front suspension look at the lower control arm rear bushing.

Give the cooling system a hard inspection. These models have very little reserve cooling, so any efficiency lost to sediment blockage (inside) or airflow blockage (outside) is bad. Frankly I just don't see these radiators lasting beyond 10 years. It's usually worth flushing the heater core while the loop is open for service. Also verify fan operation. They're generally reliable but really, you want to do everything you can to prevent an over-temp situation. Once they go over it's very easy to lose a head gasket and that is extra expensive to deal with on the H6.

Also check the two idler bearings on the serpentine accessory belt. These are notorious for wearing out about every 60k miles, but they're very cheap to replace with generic bearings. Just do it, then make a note in your own maintenance calendar to do it again in 60k. They make a very whizzy scree when they're shot.

Regarding exhaust- these left the factory with a very tame sound. What you hear may be normal. It's always worth verifying the intake for leaks, because you can get some strange sounds up front if it isn't right.

Remember, these cars love premium fuel. It is not required, but most drivers can feel the difference in performance. Drive a few tankfuls of each and make your own choice.

Good luck and welcome!
 

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FWIW, the Rotella formula that was feared to be bad for cats was phased out like a decade ago.
 

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FWIW, the Rotella formula that was feared to be bad for cats was phased out like a decade ago.
I know they reduced the ZDDP additive content a while back, but I guess the bigger point is that there's no need for any ZDDP at all in that engine. Relatively little point in using a synthetic at all with that engine. Why pay $20/gal when the $10/gal walmart stuff is good enough to get you past 300k?
 

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I know they reduced the ZDDP additive content a while back, but I guess the bigger point is that there's no need for any ZDDP at all in that engine. Relatively little point in using a synthetic at all with that engine. Why pay $20/gal when the $10/gal walmart stuff is good enough to get you past 300k?
Agreed, no need for top-shelf synthetic in this NA engine, just don't want other people reading this thread to turn their back on fantastic oil that can substantially prolong their turbocharged drivetrains' lives due to outdated rumors.
 

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Agreed, no need for top-shelf synthetic in this NA engine, just don't want other people reading this thread to turn their back on fantastic oil that can substantially prolong their turbocharged drivetrains' lives due to outdated rumors.
That seems reasonable to me. I've used the T6 for the past 6 or so years myself, and haven't managed to poison the cats yet. But then I've always been more readily willing to replace them than the turbo.
 
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