Just picked up a 2005 XT (w/ 5-sp and 76k) three weeks ago. So far I love it - more fun to drive than my Mercedes E55! Anyhow, want to ensure my XT stays fun.....so looking to remove the filter from the banjo bolt. Have the turbo heat shield removed and now ready to remove the banjo bolt (even have my shorty 17mm wrench). I tried to loosen up the banjo bolt tonight, but was surprised that it is not budgeing. How tight are these normally? Should I apply PB Blaster to this? Any guidance here is appreciated - just want to make sure i don't do anything I regret. Thx.
Newbie XT Owner - Banjo Bolt Removal
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Can't help with the DIY, but my local performance shop replaced mine for ~$120.
2005 Outback XT w/102K at the time.
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2005 Outback XT w/102K at the time.
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I doubt PB blaster would do it. It can be pretty tight if you have a short wrench, since torque = force*lever arm. 1/2 the lever arm means you need 2* the force to move it.
I don't recall it being painfully right, but I didn't have a short wrench so I just lived with small turns.
I used this how-to: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthre...l-supply-banjo-bolt-filter-removal-61689.html
Tom
I don't recall it being painfully right, but I didn't have a short wrench so I just lived with small turns.
I used this how-to: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthre...l-supply-banjo-bolt-filter-removal-61689.html
Tom
Got the banjo bolt out! Took a bit mure muscle than I would have expected (based upon the torque specs). Anyhow, I now have another obstacle I have yet to clear....re-installation of the washer between the line and the engine block - upon removal of banjo bolt this dropped out...So i now need to install a new one and am having great difficulty with this. Any sugesstions/tips? Should I remove the downpipe sensor to get more room for my hands?
Thx.
Thx.
Previous link thread talks about this, but I used a piece of flat dental floss tied around the inner washer to hold it while I got the banjo bolt through and started. Then just snip the loop or pull on the floss and it will break around the washer and pull clean. I did not have to remove the sensor.
You should use new washers here since they are crush washers to make the seal.
You should use new washers here since they are crush washers to make the seal.
Ok. Good news to report here. :29:Was able to successfully get the banjo bolt in w/ two NEW copper washers. (woo-hoo!) After performing this job now, I do have some useful tips I'd like to share regarding the install of the washer that sits between the oil line and the engine block - as this is a tough one.
1. Purchase a 'grabber tool' from Home Depot or Lowe's (refer to grabber tool.jpg). Magnetic extension tools do not work w/ copper washers! The grabber tool allows you to drop the washer in from directly above to position it perfecly between the oil line and block. There is no way your hands will get in there without this. Refer to copper washer.jpg image to see how the tool grips the washer.
2. After getting the washer in place between oil line and engine block, you are not out of the woods yet. You now need to get the banjo bolt through and lined up to catch the threads. I quickly realized this is also not an easy one. With my father's extra set of hands available, he gently pulled back on the oil line (towards front of car) to put a bit of pressure on the washer so it does not fall out. To align the washer, I used a wire nut (see wire nut.jpg), which worked perfectly to center the washer so the banjo bolt can cleanly catch the threads. The wire nut I used is tapered, which is really what helped center up the inner washer through the oil line.
That's it. After doing this now for the first time, its really not a real tough job. But it does require a bit of patience and an extra set of hands helps too. Now on to my uppipe upgrade!:29:
1. Purchase a 'grabber tool' from Home Depot or Lowe's (refer to grabber tool.jpg). Magnetic extension tools do not work w/ copper washers! The grabber tool allows you to drop the washer in from directly above to position it perfecly between the oil line and block. There is no way your hands will get in there without this. Refer to copper washer.jpg image to see how the tool grips the washer.
2. After getting the washer in place between oil line and engine block, you are not out of the woods yet. You now need to get the banjo bolt through and lined up to catch the threads. I quickly realized this is also not an easy one. With my father's extra set of hands available, he gently pulled back on the oil line (towards front of car) to put a bit of pressure on the washer so it does not fall out. To align the washer, I used a wire nut (see wire nut.jpg), which worked perfectly to center the washer so the banjo bolt can cleanly catch the threads. The wire nut I used is tapered, which is really what helped center up the inner washer through the oil line.
That's it. After doing this now for the first time, its really not a real tough job. But it does require a bit of patience and an extra set of hands helps too. Now on to my uppipe upgrade!:29:
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I am in the middle of this process, and like you, stuck on the installation part. I can not get the bolt to line up to grab the threads and I have NO room to get a hand in there, (actually only one finger). I got the banjo bolt out without removing the heat shield but now I am in the process of taking out the heat shield to gain a bit more wiggle room. Couple questions, How do you use the wire nut to align it with? Second, how many bolts hold on the heat shield and locations? I have pulled out 6 of them and not sure how many more there are or location? Any pics, diagrams, etc?
Definitely get the heat shield off as this will give you some additional room. I believe there are 8 bolts for this. If possible, try to soak these with PB Blaster first so they don't snap off (i twisted one of the heads off on one bolt). Regarding the wire nut, i used this to help center up (ie. position) the new copper washer, which sits between the oil line and the engine block. The wire nut i used was one of the tapered varieties (ie. long and thinner towards the end). This enabled me to center up the washer so i could insert the banjo bolt and get it threaded. Note: My earlier email indicated that my father put some pressure on the oil line so the washer does not fall out....the pressure was placed towards the engine block - rather than the front of car). Good luck.
For me, the floss worked great for holding the washer on the screw on the other side of the oil line while I got the screw started. I can see using the wire nut, to help line things up before getting the screw in there.
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Heat shield removal was a must for me! Could never have gotten the bolt back in with the shield still installed. My 2 cents
Thanks for responding.
I only have the single 17mm wrench so can't do two for leverage. I've sprayed it with PB blaster and still no luck. Its not a reverse thread right?
wrench leverage
Doesn't have to be the same size wrench, just of similar size. Rotate on the axis 90 degrees and put the open end together with the closed end. Just be careful with skinny Chinese wrenches. They have a tendency to fold.
Because of the 90 degree thing it only works if the closed end is on the nut or bolt you're trying to apply force to.
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Doesn't have to be the same size wrench, just of similar size. Rotate on the axis 90 degrees and put the open end together with the closed end. Just be careful with skinny Chinese wrenches. They have a tendency to fold.
Because of the 90 degree thing it only works if the closed end is on the nut or bolt you're trying to apply force to.
I got it out in the end - I rotated the hose clamp that was in the way and it came loose. My fault probably.
I'm the 3rd owner of the car so was hoping I wouldn't find a clogged up screen. Although it had some small debris in it it wasn't clogged and pretty clean. Replaced with a new bolt and screen
Still can't believe SOA charge $400 for that job.
I'm the 3rd owner of the car so was hoping I wouldn't find a clogged up screen. Although it had some small debris in it it wasn't clogged and pretty clean. Replaced with a new bolt and screen
Still can't believe SOA charge $400 for that job.Wow! This is a miserable job on a 2005 that has been driven in the northern states. I snapped 4 out of 7 bolts holing the heat shield on. Then I couldn't get the bracket bolts loose. Why would they place a maintenance item in such a f-ed up spot. I guess I'll have to pay someone to do this...even though I know how!
So reading through this post, is the concensus to just clean and replace the filter and bolt? Or leave the filter out completely? I know in the link to the legacy page the poster said he just left his out. Mildly concerning, but if it doesn't hurt it, I don't see a problem.
I think it's pretty well split, depending on who you ask.
When I bought my XT, the previous owner had already removed the entire filter. I replaced the bolt, sans filter, just because. I did find that they had left an additional crush washer in place accidentally when they removed the filter the first time.
If you change your oil at the 3,750 mile interval and use synthetic (as you should be), you shouldn't have any problems leaving the filter in and cleaning it every 10k or so.
I'm sure part of the reason people remove the filter entirely is to eliminate it as a maintenance item.
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