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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1999 Subaru Legacy Outback with a no crank no start issue. I when I put the key in the ignition and turn it absolutely no noises no clicking no lights in dash or radio. The only thing that has power are the door locks.
 

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Twist your battery terminal connections..... do they spin easily? If so, bad connections/ground. Tighten them.......

You could have enuf connection for low loads, but cranking is a whole nother story...
 

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I checked all fuses most of the relays I located where to the AC. In the past when the same thing happened to me I just had to bypass the shift lever that was stuck in park and start it in neutral however this was not the solution to this problem. What caused this problem was I was adding an additional accessory Outlet in the glove box branching it off of the cigarette lighter in the dash. I had the car and drive to remove the panel and it was running for heat. I turn the car off while it was in Drive and have not been able to get it started since.
 

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It's notable to mention that I did pop a couple of fuses when wiring the accessory Outlet in the glove box of the center console. That fuse was only a 20 amp two light switch in the engine compartment and a 20 amp to the cigarette lighter on the dash
 

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Twist your battery terminal connections..... do they spin easily? If so, bad connections/ground. Tighten them.......

You could have enuf connection for low loads, but cranking is a whole nother story...
Yeah the connections are good I literally just put in a brand new battery a couple weeks ago
 

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Discussion Starter #8
overlooked
I've checked all of them about three times since this occurred and replace them accordingly. No new shoes have popped since. I have not really checked any relays though not 100% sure where to start as far as the relays go.
 

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Yeah the connections are good I literally just put in a brand new battery a couple weeks ago
OK, how is your ground terminal "connector"? They usually degrade over the years and my last battery needed the ground line to have a new fitting for a good connection.



(btw, just troubleshooting..... sorry if they sound redundant, just covering ALL the bases.)
 

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If you have a jump starter (or jumper cables and another vehicle with known good battery), try a jump start. Connect the ground connection to somewhere on the block, not the battery negative. Report results back here.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
OK, how is your ground terminal "connector"? They usually degrade over the years and my last battery needed the ground line to have a new fitting for a good connection.



(btw, just troubleshooting..... sorry if they sound redundant, just covering ALL the bases.)
Clean and solid
 

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Discussion Starter #12
If you have a jump starter (or jumper cables and another vehicle with known good battery), try a jump start. Connect the ground connection to somewhere on the block, not the battery negative. Report results back here.
No dice
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Checking the battery with a multimeter it's 12.64 . Battery to body ground 12.64
 

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Turning the key to the accessory position displays absolutely nothing. No lights no noises nothing
 

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I checked all fuses
Including the main fuse, and all the SBF fuses? (See attached diagram.)

Checking the battery with a multimeter it's 12.64 . Battery to body ground 12.64
In addition to checking to body ground, check voltage relative to the battery negative post (not the negative clamp).

Also, check the voltage at the fuses in the engine compartment fuse box, including at each of the SBF-type fuses.

The only thing that has power are the door locks.
Is that when using the keyless entry remote to lock and unlock the doors, or only when using the Lock/Unlock switch on the driver's inside door trim?

Absolutely no lights at all, including no ceiling lights, no "door open" warning light in the instrument panel, no stop lights when the brake pedal is pressed?
 

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Sounds like you have blown the main/master fuse. This fuse is around 100Amps and commonly near the battery (not sure where it is in your model)

Seagrasd
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Including the main fuse, and all the SBF fuses? (See attached diagram.)


In addition to checking to body ground, check voltage relative to the battery negative post (not the negative clamp).

Also, check the voltage at the fuses in the engine compartment fuse box, including at each of the SBF-type fuses.



Is that when using the keyless entry remote to lock and unlock the doors, or only when using the Lock/Unlock switch on the driver's inside door trim?

Absolutely no lights at all, including no ceiling lights, no "door open" warning light in the instrument panel, no stop lights when the brake pedal is pressed?
Yes, absolutely no lights whatsoever no power to anything not even the horn. I'm being led in the direction of the ignition switch in the column anyone know a quick way to test the ignition switch?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I checked all the SBF uses this morning for continuity and everything in the engine compartment fuse box looks good even the fuse link. I disconnected the battery for a couple hours to see if that would have any effect. I ran another search with no power to anything no crank no start and I was led to believe I should check my ignition switch.
 

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I wouldn't discount the ignition switch; however, the problem could still be elsewhere, especially given the recent work and the incidents during it.

The ignition switch has a single source of power coming into it. The switch connects that power to various circuits depending on the position of the switch. When in the ACC position, power is sent to a number of circuits including (but not limited to):

Front accessory power supply
Vanity mirror illumination light
Front wiper motor
Rear wiper motor
Rear wiper relay

If none of these work, then the first thing is to determine if there is power going to the ignition switch.

The power going into the switch comes from SBF-4, 45 Amps.

I would remove SBF-4. If it tests good for continuity, measure the voltage (relative to ground) at each of the terminals in the fuse box that SBF-4 plugs into. One should have battery voltage, the other none.

If there is battery voltage at one, and SBF-4 is good, then that power should be getting to the ignition switch. In that case the next step would be to test for voltage at the switch harness connector. There's a six-wire connector (B72), that I believe is lower down on the steering column, and where the voltage to that point could be checked.

But if there isn't power at SBF-4, then the problem is upstream. SBF-4 connects back to one side of the main fuse. Check to see if there's voltage at both sides of the main fuse. (The fuse itself might appear good, but there could be a bad contact, or a difficult to see break.)

See attached wiring pages.
 

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