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2006 Outback 2.5i
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Fixed view comments reference here is videos I took of the cause of no heat; this is how it should look see here and this is how it was when not working see here .

I will try to keep this straight forward while still giving proper factors that are happening;

So I have a 2006 2.5i base model I bought back in march, now it has only just now gotten cold enough to use the heat and it only blows at the coldest setting no matter where i put the dial from blue to red. Exception of one time where we had the air off and i felt heat from the vents, turned on the heater and it came out sort of warm but nothing to write home about. That was 3 weeks ago and has yet to happen again.

Yes mine has been in for the airbag fix which worries me they didn't connect something back up when doing so. I did not own the car at this point so I do not know if it had heat before sadly.

I have checked so far this;
inlet and outlet hose are hot. outlet is about 145 and the inlet is about 160 degrees.
When changing the temp control knob to red from blue I hear nothing behind the dash.
When AC is on it blows very cold but when you turn it to up in degrees its the same ice cold AC.

Should I bother flushing the heater core if both inlet and outlet are clearly hot?
What should I search on here or pull apart to diagnose? Not looking to pay labor rates for the dash to be pulled apart but obviously need some guidance as this is my first car I have really worked on and am not familiar with HVAC systems as others may be.

Any help would be a savior since morning drives are a nightmare now, Thanks!
 

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. . . it only blows at the coldest setting no matter where i put the dial from blue to red . . . Should I bother flushing the heater core . . . When changing the temp control knob to red from blue I hear nothing behind the dash.
There's a cable between the temperature control (at the back) and the lever that controls a flap inside the heater; the flap varies the amount of air going through the heater core, and thereby the temperature of the air out of the vents. It's a coaxial, or "bicycle" type of cable, with an outer casing held in position and a single wire that moves inside. It's possible that the casing or inner wire aren't fastened properly. Usually, when moving the temperature control, with the engine off (i.e, quiet), it should be possible to hear the mechanism working.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
There's a cable between the temperature control (at the back) and the lever that controls a flap inside the heater; the flap varies the amount of air going through the heater core, and thereby the temperature of the air out of the vents. It's a coaxial, or "bicycle" type of cable, with an outer casing held in position and a single wire that moves inside. It's possible that the casing or inner wire aren't fastened properly. Usually, when moving the temperature control, with the engine off (i.e, quiet), it should be possible to hear the mechanism working.
explained that very well thank you I now know what to really look for. Hard to access this cable? Is the flap that you speak of the white plastic on the passenger side I have seen? I also forgot I had a shop put in a new head unit so they may have also forgot to put it back on if they were near it.

I did go out and listen with it off and hear not a single thing and its very quiet where I live. Ill report back when i make any progress on diagnosing gonna need a day off to pull trim pieces off lol. cheers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
The cable goes from the back of the temperature control knob to a lever mechanism on the left/driver side of the heater box.
The cable is connected and working as it should behind the manual knob. Does this mean there is a problem with the actuator? I am not familiar with the parts for the HVAC system but I assume the "air mix door #4" that puts the air through or around the heater core is what is stuck. Wondering what would cause this and if I should just let my mechanic look at it if it doesnt mean a whole dash rip off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
What about the other end, at the linkage on the driver side of the heater box? The cable could be disconnected there, or the linkage levers could be damaged.
I can see the other end connected and working as it should. It moves a white wing looking plastic piece. It does have another knob on the other end that doesnt seem to have a purpose hope there isnt suppose to be anything else connected I did take a video of its functioning.
 

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Good video, I think.

502574


When the temp control is turned, we see the cable moving the white lever A, and pin at B moves with it. However, the pin at B doesn't seem to be connected to anything else. Usually a pin like that engages a cam follower. This is part C:

502573


In the video, when B moves all the way to the left, we can see the upper end of C (at D) move slightly.

I suspect that the pin at B is supposed to be in the slot in C, so that as the manual temp control is turned, and lever A is moved, the pin slides along in the slot, turning C. Lever C is probably connected (at its right side end in this photo) to the air blend door inside the heater box. Perhaps the pin at B has somehow been pulled out of the slot, or, lever C is broken so that the pin isn't held in the slot.

The two parts can be seen in the diagram at: HEATER SYSTEM. HEATER UNIT & COOLING UNIT.. 2006 Subaru Outback 2.5L 4AT Base | Subaru Parts Online
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Good video, I think.

View attachment 502574

When the temp control is turned, we see the cable moving the white lever A, and pin at B moves with it. However, the pin at B doesn't seem to be connected to anything else. Usually a pin like that engages a cam follower. This is part C:

View attachment 502573

In the video, when B moves all the way to the left, we can see the upper end of C (at D) move slightly.

I suspect that the pin at B is supposed to be in the slot in C, so that as the manual temp control is turned, and lever A is moved, the pin slides along in the slot, turning C. Lever C is probably connected (at its right side end in this photo) to the air blend door inside the heater box. Perhaps the pin at B has somehow been pulled out of the slot, or, lever C is broken so that the pin isn't held in the slot.

The two parts can be seen in the diagram at: HEATER SYSTEM. HEATER UNIT & COOLING UNIT.. 2006 Subaru Outback 2.5L 4AT Base | Subaru Parts Online
Wow I could not see part D last night with my eyes haha. This gives me some hope I appreciate the annotating on my own personal video. This helps heaps and I think ill try and contort my big ole hand up there and see if itll stay in that slot by hand or not I have had the head unit replaced and the airbag recall has been done so good chance it just lazely was never put back.

Worst case ill start firing out DIY's. May have to wait til after aisin belt kit gets put in. Regardless been interesting seeing how the dash hides things and how mechanical can just be pulled out fo function.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Good video, I think.

View attachment 502574

When the temp control is turned, we see the cable moving the white lever A, and pin at B moves with it. However, the pin at B doesn't seem to be connected to anything else. Usually a pin like that engages a cam follower. This is part C:

View attachment 502573

In the video, when B moves all the way to the left, we can see the upper end of C (at D) move slightly.

I suspect that the pin at B is supposed to be in the slot in C, so that as the manual temp control is turned, and lever A is moved, the pin slides along in the slot, turning C. Lever C is probably connected (at its right side end in this photo) to the air blend door inside the heater box. Perhaps the pin at B has somehow been pulled out of the slot, or, lever C is broken so that the pin isn't held in the slot.

The two parts can be seen in the diagram at: HEATER SYSTEM. HEATER UNIT & COOLING UNIT.. 2006 Subaru Outback 2.5L 4AT Base | Subaru Parts Online
Plain OM, thank you for being the person to really allow me to be able to fix the issue. I was able to use 2 sticks and some brain power to get them to attach again. Did not take any dash or console parts out to reach it. I took a video after and hope this can be of use for someone else down the road as im sure anyone who does the radio or anything may pull this linkage apart as it is the tightest cable out of everything with the least amount of slack so naturally it makes sense.

Proper Function found in video here .
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
As I was reading the post I initially thought the video was to show how the sticks were used, until I realized the "after"; nevertheless, it's fantastic!
Ah yes maybe if someone was home to camera man but my hands were kind of on my head as I put one stick on the channel piece to push it down then it just click into the other piece thanks to all the grease I assume.

Regardless snow days will be less miserable now! Thanks!
 
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