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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, got a 2012 2.5i CVT outback which is new. The car jumps a bit, kind of does a forwards jolt when I shift from park to reverse. It is strong enough to be visible as car body motion sometimes. This can also occur when shifting from drive to reverse/park.

Any ideas? Is this normal for the CVT to give this kind of a sensation when shifting?
 

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2014 2.5i Limited
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Yeah, It's all this massive Subaru power barely being contained. lol
But seriously, every automatic trans car I've ever driven lurches a bit when put in gear.
 

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2019 Forester Sport. Love the Orange.
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Does it do it all the time or only on cold start up when engine revs are higher?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Does it do it all the time or only on cold start up when engine revs are higher?
The jolt is stronger when doing a cold start, it can sometimes be pretty strong, feels like being rear ended. But the jolt definitely is always there if you pay attention to it.

From previous cars I'm used to a total lack of any kind of vibration/jumps when moving the shift stick... I've driven many AT and manual boxes previously, but not a Lineartronic so this makes me wonder if Lineartronic has a tendency to vibrate / thump / jump the car when moving the stick. Since starting up the 2.5 boxer engine feels like you're starting a bus (rumblin 'n tumblin') I would'nt be so suprised if the Lineartronic has similar tendencies for roughness.

I would suppose many users here have a Lineartronic so owners can share how theirs is? Start the car and move the stick from Park to Reverse while depressing brake. In my car I can feel a forwards jolt which doesn't seem normal.

While driving both the engine and box are as smooth as I would expect from a 2012 new car. The rough engine start was a surprise to me though, since Subaru emphasises its smoothness and balance (!) and I'm kind of wondering if there is a faulty engine support or faulty transmission support, new from factory...
 

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'14 3.6R Outback
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What other cars have you driven? That might help us... help you.

It's really hard to tell if it's normal or not with out comparison or a video.
 

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Any chance this is the hard parking pawl release when parked without applying the parking brake before throwing the car in park? IE the classic loaded up parking pawl being released under load.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
What other cars have you driven? That might help us... help you. It's really hard to tell if it's normal or not with out comparison or a video.
I've driven a lot of cars (rentals) recently. New Toyotas, Hyundais, Mitsubishis ... these had traditional 4AT or 5AT... Volkswagens (both dsg and manual), a Mitsubishi Pajero 4AT ...

The fact that you are asking me this, well it kind of hints to that one should expect a Lineartronic to thump and jump more or less when moving the stick. If it didn't you'd think owners would just say "Nope, when I shift from park to reverse nothing happens at all"

This is simple, really, if you have a Lineartronic OB:

1. start the car
2. brake pedal depressed, shift from park to reverse
Q: do you feel _any_ sudden jolt like movement / car body movement? yes or no

My answer is "no" for all cars I've driven over the last few years except for this OB, which is the first Lineartronic I've driven.

The previous time I've experienced something like this was with some old manual trans cars, a long time ago. So I'm just wondering if this is a feature of Lineartronic or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Any chance this is the hard parking pawl release when parked without applying the parking brake before throwing the car in park? IE the classic loaded up parking pawl being released under load.
I never engage the parking brake first. I always first shift to park, then lift foot off brake and switch on the parking brake (if at all). But it's a level surface so this shouldn't matter much. But I'll check this out, thanks.
 

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I never engage the parking brake first. I always first shift to park, then lift foot off brake and switch on the parking brake (if at all). But it's a level surface so this shouldn't matter much. But I'll check this out, thanks.
You should always engage the parking brake before releasing the foot brake.
 

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2016 Carbide Gray Limited with Moonroof, Nav, and Eyesight
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I do not notice much other than the slight feeling of engagement one feels with all automatics. There is a torque convertor there. I also have made it a habit to engage the parking brake before removing my foot from the brake when parking. I also always shift first to neutral, then to either drive or reverse, as this allows the rpms's to drop a little. I then leave the parking brake on until I take off, as the brake releases as soon as you touch the gas in gear with your belt on. Another thing I like to watch out for is to not "load" the parking pall by pulling up so far the tire touches the curb or drifts into a depression in the asphalt. I always have a smooth shift from park to neutral, and never have to unload the steering wheel to get the key to turn.
 

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2010 OBW limited 2.5 CVT
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You should always engage the parking brake before releasing the foot brake.
There is your problem right there. Even on (seemingly) level ground, the car will roll one way on the other against the park pawl. When you shift out of park again, it unloads the torque causing the loud banging lerch. Start using the brake and it will stop doing it.
 

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2011 2.5i Premium, CVT, Azurite Blue, added Hidden Hitch
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Mine does nothing like that. I can't imagine it lurching FORWARD when going from park to reverse. Is there a dealer nearby who can check it out?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
There is your problem right there. Even on (seemingly) level ground, the car will roll one way on the other against the park pawl. When you shift out of park again, it unloads the torque causing the loud banging lerch. Start using the brake and it will stop doing it.
Actually, if I shift a few times from park to reverse and back, I get that jolting sensation multiple times. So I doubt this is a park pawl issue
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Mine does nothing like that. I can't imagine it lurching FORWARD when going from park to reverse. Is there a dealer nearby who can check it out?
Thanks. I'm going to the dealership tomorrow so we'll see what they have to say. Maybe I can try out one of their CVT OB's while I'm there to compare.
 

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'14 3.6R Outback
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Thanks. I'm going to the dealership tomorrow so we'll see what they have to say. Maybe I can try out one of their CVT OB's while I'm there to compare.
That might be your best bet.

You asked "yes or no?" I'm going to say no. I've driven all sorts of 70's GM cars, a host of Fords, a few nice Euro's, Jeeps... etc... but not many Toyota/Honda which seem to go in to gear with no noticeable effect. My Subie is smooth compared to cars I've driven but harsher/nosier than the Toyota's and Honda's... and I like it that way.

The Subaru shifts "normally for me." It does "jolt substantially" when on even a slight incline and it "jolts" more when it's cold. When it's warm and on level ground I hardly notice it "going into gear" at all.

The reason I asked is when have a lot of people come in who... are used to $50k plus cars and complain the OB doesn't measure up. There have been posts about "whirling noises," "cold feet," "back pain..." and unless we know you where your coming from...

It's hard to help you in the right direction.
 

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I never engage the parking brake first. I always first shift to park, then lift foot off brake and switch on the parking brake (if at all). But it's a level surface so this shouldn't matter much. But I'll check this out, thanks.
Thats your issue in this case then.

The parking pawl on this car locks into a gear in the front diff. It does not have as much slop and movement ie give in it as most cars as a result not putting the parking brake on before putting it in park places a load on the parking pawl. The next time you use it the pawl is being released under load and causing a loud pop or slam as it more or less gets broken loose from the loaded gear its locked into.

The pawl by the way is not designed to hold the weight of the car and yes over time you can break it or wear it and damage the gear. Parking brakes were designed to hold the weight of the car and also designed to take the shock loads of a car being bumped or pushed etc. They will also slip and wear on a pad vs two physical mechanical parts physically locked together with one of the parts the pawl being a tooth that can be broken if subjected to enough force.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The parking pawl on this car locks into a gear in the front diff. It does not have as much slop and movement ie give in it as most cars as a result not putting the parking brake on before putting it in park places a load on the parking pawl. The next time you use it the pawl is being released under load and causing a loud pop or slam as it more or less gets broken loose from the loaded gear its locked into.
OK I understand your point, but the exact same "thump" also occurs when shifting from N to R (umm, I don't think I mentioned that yet here... sorry). If its the pawl, this shouldn't happen shifting from N to R, I think.

I'm 100% sure this is not a pawl issue / user error, but instead a component failure fresh from Subaru factory, existed on mile one. Hopefully the dealership can locate the culprit and solve promptly.
 
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