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2013 Outback 2.5i Convenience
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Removing the bumper was my last resort. Hoping the dealer will do it tomorrow. If they don't, I will.

I set my phone in the back and recorded a clip while I drove. Not quite sure how to post it here.
Stop sweating it, let the warranty deal with it. I had a rattle coming from the front of mine within a few thousand miles, it had a couple trips to the dealer where they did stuff and claimed it was quiet after (I think the road they used was too smooth). I quickly heard the noise, clearly bump related, kept the pressure on the dealer. They easily agreed to give it to a body shop for a week (mechanically, it was good). That guy could reproduce the noise. Long story short, he stripped out a lot of the car and kept test driving it until he found some suspected spot welds in the fender support framing, welded it up and car became quiet after that. Still fine 8 years later. Not to say I don't have other noises, but that one hasn't returned.
 

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2005 Outback Wagon 3.0 L.L. Bean
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Do you golf? Look for your titelist ball rolling around
 
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‘22 OB Wilderness
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92 Posts
Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Okay, so here’s what the dealer had to say:

I wanted to update you and let you know that I had my shop foreman and my manager both look over your vehicle. They were able to pinpoint the noise to be coming from the rear hatch. They cleaned the rear hatch and added some silicone along the seal to help. They found that it was the rubber seal being dry and hitting into a plastic piece. We are doing the oil change now and then we should be good to go.

Hopefully that resolves the problem, I’m skeptical though. Picking it up in an hour or so. Here’s the loaner they gave me.

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Sounds like they are talking about that little panel that covers the screws for the rear tail light.

Removing it and riding around would confirm it’s the source. Putting some foam tape on the inside of it will keep it from rattling. The little plastic retaining clips aren’t the best either.

Mine is loose and makes that noise when I was tapping on things to duplicate it, but when the hatch is closed it doesn’t rattle.

At least you got a decent loaner. My last one was a red 2.0 crosstrek. Got great fuel economy around town though.
 

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2020 Onyx / ICM
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54 Posts
Did you try checking the plastic panels surrounding the interior of the hatch? Perhaps something unclipped or popped loose. I remember when I removed the interior hatch trim on my crosstrek, it created all sorts of light plastic tapping/rattling over bumps.
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Okay, so here’s what the dealer had to say:

I wanted to update you and let you know that I had my shop foreman and my manager both look over your vehicle. They were able to pinpoint the noise to be coming from the rear hatch. They cleaned the rear hatch and added some silicone along the seal to help. They found that it was the rubber seal being dry and hitting into a plastic piece. We are doing the oil change now and then we should be good to go.

Hopefully that resolves the problem, I’m skeptical though. Picking it up in an hour or so. Here’s the loaner they gave me.

View attachment 521515
Is that an onyx? Can you do A comparison between the onyx and wilderness?
 

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‘22 OB Wilderness
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92 Posts
Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Yeah
How can the dealership return the car to you like that? From your audio it’s a clear sound…it’s either there or it isn’t…is this a concern for wilderness build quality?
Yeah, seriously. It’s obviously still making the noise. Most techs roll their eyes at the complaint of a noise or rattle. I picked the vehicle up after the service department had closed so I’ll have to call back and make another appointment. I’m heading home to pull out the tail lights, take off the rear bumper and investigate further.
 

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18 OB 2.5i Ltd w/ES Crystal Blk/Ivory
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I was just reading a post on reddit about a rattle and the cause was an acorn that fell into the roof rack!
 

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2020 Onyx
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‘22 OB Wilderness
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92 Posts
Discussion Starter · #38 ·
I was just reading a post on reddit about a rattle and the cause was an acorn that fell into the roof rack!
Really? That’s so random. Totally possible though. I’ve narrowed my issue down to either the hatch or the combination of the hatch and the surrounding trim. I left the hatch open and sat in back while someone drove and I didn’t hear it. Closed the hatch. Noise came back. Removed the passenger side tail light. Stuffed a rag between the bumper and the body where it meets under the tail light. Still the noise persists.
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The later generations with the power gates introduces additional consideration, but, in the 3rd gen, rattling from the rear was not uncommon. It happened to me. I did the same, sitting in the back, indeed, in the cargo area. Eventually I found that the rear gate striker was misadjusted by a tiny amount.

The manual rear gate closed very easily. If I brought it down slowly right to the bottom, then pushed lightly against the bottom, it would not only engage the first latching lock, but the second as well. When I moved the striker forward, the door, in effect, closed more tightly, and the rattle was gone. More details in this post . (I later found that depending on the initial assembly of the car, there could be sufficient movement in the striker to not have to elongate the holes.)

I'm not sure if the power lifter plays a role in where the door can close, i.e., can the striker be adjusted a tiny amount without affecting the operation of the mechanism and the latch?
 

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‘22 OB Wilderness
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92 Posts
Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Is there any instruction out there explaining how to remove the black panel on the rear hatch (interior) just under the rear hatch window? Problem isn’t in the rear bumper or below the car or in the rear compartment. Seems to exist inside the rear hatch. Or it’s the combination of the rear hatch rubbing or pressing against something when it’s closed
 
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