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Discussion Starter #1
Driving my 2013 Outback, 2.5i 6 Speed manual, today I was presented with a solid Check Engine light, a flashing Brake light, and a flashing cruise control light. I took it to the local auto parts store to get a code read and it read P2004,P2007,P2004,P2007. I looked at the engine and noticed the intake line (connecting the air filter and intake manifold) was very loose. So much so that I could pull it off without unscrewing the hose clamp. I put it back on and tightened the hose clamp.

My question is, could that loose hose cause those error codes?
P2004 Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Open (Bank 1)
P2007 Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Closed (Bank 2)

Find it odd that one from either bank is stuck in different positions.

Thought?

Thanks
Keith
 

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So, this has been a crazy day. I tightened up the intake line and made sure all connections were snug. I installed a BAFX Products 34t5 Bluetooth OBDII Scan Tool, I had purchased via Amazon, and linked my phone to it. This showed the two codes as "historic" which was a good sign. I drove it for a little bit and there was no more flashing. However there was a little hunting and idle RPM. Needless to say, all is well and after a few more stops and restarts it is running nice and smooth again.

Hope this helps anyone noticing the same issues.

Thanks,
Keith
 

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*** UPDATE ***
So NOPE, happened again, this time on the highway. I checked the intake line and it was solid. Took it to the dealer and they said the motors that control the valves were stuck and for a cool $1,400 they would be happy to replace them for me.
Anyone else have this issue on a 2.5i and if so what were the results?
 

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I have had spurious codes set related to those runners caused by a weak battery. get the battery tested.

the odds of both motors or switches being bad at the same time are vanishingly small.

(there could be an issue with a ground or wiring harness/ connectoer I suppose....other stuff....?)
 

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I have had spurious codes set related to those runners caused by a weak battery. get the battery tested.

the odds of both motors or switches being bad at the same time are vanishingly small.

(there could be an issue with a ground or wiring harness/ connectoer I suppose....other stuff....?)
WOW, didn't even thing of the battery.
When I took it to the dealership they told me 1 motor didn't respond and the other was delayed. Said they could control the motors via the diag tool they used. I think the battery is the original and could use a new one. On the cold mornings it was a little sluggish to turn over.
I will go there first.
 

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dunno where you live but, here's 3 things to consider;

newer Subarus seem to ship with marginal batteries. you can find complaints

the high temps are very hard on batteries. here in Tx, anything over 3 years is getting quite old.

if a battery has ever been discharged severely or dead, they can sulfate and go bad even more quickly


 

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I am in Massachusetts and had a very mild Winter. I think the coldest it got down to was 20 degrees. It seems changing the battery would be the cheapest first step. And let me just add, finding the replacement parts are **** near impossible. I have been searching online since I can see the two screws holding the part on to the intake.
 

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not sure about the dealer's system, but in addition to the motor's, there are switches.

gummy deposits could also lead to the TGVs sticking(an intake cleaning might help if that is suspect) - but again, seems VERY unlikely both sides would fail at the same time.

they can test a battery, no need to jump to replacement unless there are other factors. maybe you just need to clean the terminals and reconnect?

the dealer can do an 'induction service' I think, or you could research a SeaFoam treatment using the spray can with it's u-shaped nozzle. The injectors are below the TGVs so, fuel tank additives won't help.

couldn't find a good animation of our units, but they perform a similar function as shown in the is Audi video;

 

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I can have the battery tested. This all started from my first post when I noticed the intake hose, that goes from the air cleaner box to the intake manifold, was **** near off. It does seem very strange that it happened on both sides at the same time. To me, it seems more electrical than mechanical. Will have to trace the wires back and see if there is a corroded connection somewhere.

On a total side note, I am new to the Subaru community, just bought my first one, this one, in January of this year. I am not new to fixing broken stuff.

Thanks for the reply by the way.

**EDIT **
Very helpful video, it only showed up AFTER I posted my comment.
 

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Posting an update, I tried to get out cheap by replacing the sensors on the ends of the Intake Manifold Runner Controls, about $100 each. They are plastic and work off a magnet and gear which identifies the position of the tumblers. Well long story short, I am now saving my pennies and purchasing the Intake Manifold Runner Controls themselves, at about $300 each from the dealer. I hope this is not a preamble to this vehicle. I purchased it on January 16 2017 and already have sank a bunch of money into it.

Anyway, you all for your help. I will be keeping an eye on this forum because it is full of helpful hints.
 

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Posting an update, I tried to get out cheap by replacing the sensors on the ends of the Intake Manifold Runner Controls, about $100 each. They are plastic and work off a magnet and gear which identifies the position of the tumblers. Well long story short, I am now saving my pennies and purchasing the Intake Manifold Runner Controls themselves, at about $300 each from the dealer. I hope this is not a preamble to this vehicle. I purchased it on January 16 2017 and already have sank a bunch of money into it.

Anyway, you all for your help. I will be keeping an eye on this forum because it is full of helpful hints.

You may find that throwing parts at the problem will get expensive and not correct the issues. Have you considered actually troubleshooting and simply fixing the actual problem?

Many auto-repair shops spesialize at "throwing parts at a problem" mainly because they are not sure what is wrong and they make more money selling you stuff.

I have been troubleshooting electronic equipment for over 40 years and can tell you it is VERY rare for multiple components to fail at the same time (unless it was struck by lightning)

You need to think about what SINGLE point of failure could cause all those issues you are seeing.

HINT: Have you considered perhaps a ground connection to the engine is flakey or loose? (all those actuators and sensors may rely on a common ground connection)
 

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Well, where do I start?
I guess I should start out by saying I have been troubleshooting since this all started. I have been troubleshooting mechanical and electronics for over 30 years myself. I understand that for BOTH of them to go bad at the same time is rare, but not impossible. I purchased this car on January 16 2017 from an auction. The dealer that got it from the auction stated he changed almost every bulb in the car, which was a red flag for me.

I changed the battery as a troubleshooting measure also because while it was in the low 20s this winter it was hard to start.
Replacing the motors that control the tumblers was another troubleshooting step, the Subaru dealer stated when they went to "move" the tumblers 1 motor was sluggish and the other was stuck.
From that I ran Sea Foam in the gas and down the intake, also a troubleshooting step.
Keep in mind I am NOT an electrician nor do I know one.
I have checked ALL the cabled going from the battery to the engine, and am not presented with any other issues other than Cruise Control not working, which I am contributing to the ECU trying to make up for the codes.

Since I work for a living and just purchased this vehicle less than 7 months ago I was trying to go cheap and not pay the dealer $1200 to replace these parts.

So I am not 100% sure what other troubleshooting steps you think I SHOULD take.

If you don't have anything constructive to say please just write it down on a piece of paper and post it to YOUR frig because you are the only one that really cares about it.
 

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Well, where do I start?
I guess I should start out by saying I have been troubleshooting since this all started. I have been troubleshooting mechanical and electronics for over 30 years myself. I understand that for BOTH of them to go bad at the same time is rare, but not impossible. I purchased this car on January 16 2017 from an auction. The dealer that got it from the auction stated he changed almost every bulb in the car, which was a red flag for me.

I changed the battery as a troubleshooting measure also because while it was in the low 20s this winter it was hard to start.
Replacing the motors that control the tumblers was another troubleshooting step, the Subaru dealer stated when they went to "move" the tumblers 1 motor was sluggish and the other was stuck.
From that I ran Sea Foam in the gas and down the intake, also a troubleshooting step.
Keep in mind I am NOT an electrician nor do I know one.
I have checked ALL the cabled going from the battery to the engine, and am not presented with any other issues other than Cruise Control not working, which I am contributing to the ECU trying to make up for the codes.

Since I work for a living and just purchased this vehicle less than 7 months ago I was trying to go cheap and not pay the dealer $1200 to replace these parts.

So I am not 100% sure what other troubleshooting steps you think I SHOULD take.

If you don't have anything constructive to say please just write it down on a piece of paper and post it to YOUR frig because you are the only one that really cares about it.
Haha! Hey did you ever get this issue resolved? I'm dealing with the exact thing same car but an auto trans. Thank you
 

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Haha! Hey did you ever get this issue resolved? I'm dealing with the exact thing same car but an auto trans. Thank you

It was these little buggers that were going bad. I had to buy the entire unit ~$300 each from the Subaru dealer. It has philip head screws which was quite a challenge since the heads face the firewall. There are two of them one on either side.
 

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Hello BlackTux,

Thanks for your post.

Did you replace just the black item on the right end indicated by the arrow? Or the entire MANIFOLD ASSEMBLY-INTAKE CONTROL part number 14111AA000

Do you have the Subaru part number (I have the same car)
 

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Hello BlackTux,

Thanks for your post.

Did you replace just the black item on the right end indicated by the arrow? Or the entire MANIFOLD ASSEMBLY-INTAKE CONTROL part number 14111AA000

Do you have the Subaru part number (I have the same car)
Hello,
I have permanent codes P2004/P2007 and need to either repair or replace the IMRC. Were you able to replace just the black control on the outside of the manifold or were you forced to replace the entire intake manifold?
Thanks.
 

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Also having the same issue for the past few months. The cost is around $1400 from the shop to replace the intake manifold generators. Was wondering if the problem was solved with the repairs.

Also, was thinking of simply cleaning out the carbon buildup might be able to solve the issue. Sort of like this guy:


What do you think? Hoping that someone is still following this thread.
 

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Hello,
I have permanent codes P2004/P2007 and need to either repair or replace the IMRC. Were you able to replace just the black control on the outside of the manifold or were you forced to replace the entire intake manifold?
Thanks.
Hi, Wondering if you were able to fix the P2004/P2007 codes? I am faced with the same decision: either replace the black control or the entire IMRC assembly. Curious what you found out? Thanks.
 

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Hi, Wondering if you were able to fix the P2004/P2007 codes? I am faced with the same decision: either replace the black control or the entire IMRC assembly. Curious what you found out? Thanks.
Me too, brother. It's been a while since anyone has responded so we are in the Wait and See mode.
 
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